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1310 or 1350 rear driveshaft?

formercruiserhead

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So getting ready to order my driveshaft. Going to do double cardan with factory slipyoke for now. The question is, is the 1350 joints worth the $200ish more than having the same built with 1310 joints? Going into 89 k5 np241 and corp 14bolt full float and 37s.
 
So getting ready to order my driveshaft. Going to do double cardan with factory slipyoke for now. The question is, is the 1350 joints worth the $200ish more than having the same built with 1310 joints? Going into 89 k5 np241 and corp 14bolt full float and 37s.
The yoke on the 14bff is probably 1350 to start with. I'd go 1350.
 
So getting ready to order my driveshaft. Going to do double cardan with factory slipyoke for now. The question is, is the 1350 joints worth the $200ish more than having the same built with 1310 joints? Going into 89 k5 np241 and corp 14bolt full float and 37s.
For the rear no question
 
You have a 241. Do yourself a favor and sye it and have your shaft made. That big old heavy double cardan hanging on your slip shaft bushing will be short lived.
 
Weigh the cost of a CV 1350 vs a 2 joint 1410 setup.

98% of those parts can be found in any JY in the US under most newer Chevy trucks.
 
Weigh the cost of a CV 1350 vs a 2 joint 1410 setup.

98% of those parts can be found in any JY in the US under most newer Chevy trucks.
Looking at the specs of what the op has there is no way he will have decent driveline angles without a CV. Or he has to do a SYE to the 241, but if bet it still needs a CV with it . The rear shaft is just too short on a K5 with a 14b.
 
Ok so I scored an F350 front shaft and looking at doing the JB conversions SYE with the flange. This is probably my best scenario. I get the best of both worlds and comes out to cost about the same as a full custom shaft with no SYE kit.
 

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