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1350 Dana 60 Yoke and 16" slip SQUARE driveline....

stallion85

stallion85

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Just finished my second square driveline. First one was on my K30. This one was a neccessity since the shaft before would pull apart when the front axle wrapped and droop. Talk about a ruined trip to the Hammers:mad:

Any ways I figured I would share for those who need a cheap long slip drive line.

Parts:

2 1/2" .25 wall Receiver tube NO SEAM 24"

2" .25 square 36"

1350 yoke from an old K30 rear slip yoke cut down

1310 CV from original driveshaft

1350 Yoke with extra 1/4" deck heigth to clear pinion nut from WFO $75

Weld together :)

Here are the pics!

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with the CV I cut the weld around the origninal tubing and pressed it out. There was about a 1/2" "Nub" sticking out. It fit snug into the 2 1/2", so I just smacked it in with a mallet till it was seated evenly all the way around.

The yoke end was more of an eyeball game. We would tack it into place and eyeball it's position. It is pretty darn true..........I am about to go test it out and will be back with pics this afternoon.
 
did you clearance the cv? that seems to be the weak part after making the shaft.
 
I eyeballed both ends of my square tube shaft, it's good to about 25mph (4.10's, 31's) before it shakes. It pretty much instantly goes from smooth to making everything blurry from shaking so hard.
 
Well, I have some bad news. The welds to the yoke end broke doing a front dig.

The problem was that when I cut the yoke end down I did not leave a 1" nub. I thought it would be ok, but proved my theory wrong.

To fix the problem I am going to aquire a new 1350 end and square off a 1" nub to press into the 2" square.

This is not a downfall of the square driveline, just a mistake of mine.


I got the square tubing for free from my Father In Laws shop........he makes trailers.....
 
Update:


This time I notched the yoke into a square then welded the yoke into it. Then used a 2" section of 2.5" to sleeve over like a joint and welded both sides.

Tested it out last night, didn't break.....seems promising:wink1:

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Be careful, keep an eye on the CV. That 3R is the weak point, if it binds at all, it will break the centering yoke. Built 5 of these over the last 2 years. I've broken 3 already, even with grinding for clearance. The 2 shafts I have left are going to spares. Went with 1410 single Ujoint, I'm tired of changing drivelines in the desert. I hope I don't sound like I'm dissing your post, which is good info, just wanted to add some of my experience to the scene :)
 
he probably means the standard little cv joint.

looks like you need to shim your pinion up. is this driven on the road? if not i'd point it directly at the t-case. mine was the same as your and with my soft 52" springs it was wrapping up and binding. mine isn't driven on the road, so i don't care about camber/caster.
 
Noob question: I've heard conflicting argumets about using the u bolts instead of straps for the u-joints. I've heard that the "saddle" for the joint (in the yoke) is where all the pressure is (for rotation) and that it's not neccessary for u-bolts. Do people do it for strength during droop? I heard this from the shop that built my driveshaft; I was asking them because I was going to do this but they said it wasn't recommended because people sometimes over-tighten them and ruin the caps. I noticed that your u-bolts were pretty out-board on the caps. Is that the reason? What is your opinion on the straps vs. u-bolt debate?
 
Typically Ubolts are regarded more highly then straps. I personally have straps on my stuff because it the axles are setup from the factory that way and I have never really had a problem with them. Worst I have had happen to my straps in the bolt heads get mangled on rocks. A couple new bolts fixes the problem. I wouldn't mind having ubolts but I am not spending money to go do it unless my straps fail.

Harley
 
I have run both on the buggy and like the u bolts because they are beefy. They offer more rock rash ability proir to needing to be replaced.

I used to replace straps twice a season and now have run the u bolts for two seasons without replacement
 
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