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1350 --> driveshaft

blazerpro79

blazerpro79

1/2 ton status
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Jan 4, 2005
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Location
Simi Valley, CA
hey guys, i was thinking about upgrading to 1410 or 1350 u joints, being that i need new yokes, and i should just upgrade now, but if i buy new yokes, my driveshaft wont fit the 1310s. do they make a combo joint or do i have to just get new ears welded onto my driveshaft to fit the bigger u joint. this is for my 79 k5, info in my signature.

also, any reason why i should upgrade to 1410 over 1350 or 1310? it see's 95% street/highway, not too much offroading.

thanks in advance
 
for the way you use your rig, I'd just stick with 1310s. Why spend the extra money? I have 1410s personally, but my rig is built to wheel.

j
 
I have 1310 rear driveshaft yoke , and 12 bolt yoke on the prettier truck I drive everyday .

I do wheel it , and haven't had it break yet .

jekbrowns right , you probably don't need it with how you use your truck .
 
ok, well i keep breaking u joints, because my 203 yoke is cracked... if i buy 1310s, do i need to get my shaft re-machined to accept the 1310 u joint, or do they make a u joint that will connect the two?
 
If your running a automatic/203 and 12 bolt , you should already be 1310 if its untouched original .

If your breaking u-joints , just fix the reason , get a new 203 yoke , and make sure your angles are right and the shafts the right length .
 
I am still running 1310's and even an S44 CV in the front. If you are worried get the new cold forged spicer 1310's. I haven't hurt mine in the last year of flogging it.
 
i used to break 1310's when i was on 10 bolts and 33's... id say its worth the upgrade
 
also, i think i will be replacing the rear yoke as well. it is a 12 bolt, but ive been told my yoke is a 10 bolt yoke. it doesnt have the ears that hold the ujoint centered... and it uses straps instead of a u-bolt. is that correct it is a 10 bolt yoke? either way, its hard to center it so i will be swapping it out as well.
 
They came in straps on 12 bolts too . The difference is the 10 bolt yoke is either s44 ( like 1330 but not exact ) , or 1350 on 4 speed trucks .
 
blazerpro79 said:
do they make a combo joint
Click to expand...

To answer your first question, yes they make combo joints for just about any size. I don't have the part #, but I'm sure someone on here does. I have one that goes from my 12 axle to my 10 bolt driveshaft and have never broke it yet, I can get on the throttle pretty hard when we are wheeling too.

Rick
 
BTW, you can't just replace the yoke on the rear end. It uses a crush sleeve and you will mess up the pinion bearing preload if you remove the yoke. Unless you can disassemble your differential and have an inch pound torque wrench, don't take that yoke off. Don't bother replacing the yoke, just wait until you swap in the FF14 bolt and uses a combo 1310/1350 joint at the axle end and you will be fine.
 
pauly383k10 said:
or 1350 on 4 speed trucks .
Click to expand...

Mine is a factory 4 speed and had 1310 u-joints from the factory (my dad is the original owner, so I know it hasn't been messed with), so not all factory 4 speeds have 1350 joints.
 
seriously, for your use the whole 1350/1410 thing is a waste of ca$h. Upgrading yokes on an axle like a 12b is a little bit silly. Fix the yoke problem on the 203, make sure your shaft is operating as a sane angle and replace the joints. You'll be fine and it'll cost you a lot less.

j
 
Of course the assembly line isn't stopping , so I assume they would of used any combination they had on hand . The ones I have seen were 1350 , including the 70's truck my 12 bolt came from :D
 
I take it you WANT to be banned. good grief, I'm averting my virgin eyes as we speak.

j
 
jekbrown said:
I take it you WANT to be banned. good grief, I'm averting my virgin eyes as we speak.

j
Click to expand...
And I thought I was just being overly sensitive! :rolleyes:
 
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