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14 bolt FF 89 blazer help

J

Jasonthreedengr

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Sorry I’m sure This has been talked about over and over again.But I’m new to the forum. And nobody locally has been able to help me at all.I need to know what And where I can find a 14 bolt free float rear end to put in my 89 blazer . Where is a good place to find one . Thanks
 
Reason you can’t find one is you’re calling it wrong. :haha:
14BFF = 14 bolt FULL floating
The axle shafts float on bearings and only serve one duty - to send power to the wheels. Whereas semi floating axles like the 10 bolt the axle both rotates the wheel and supports the vehicle weight.
Sorry, just being a smartass. Get use to it on this board. :deal: Others will be able to tell you which vehicles and years to look out for.
 
That is difficult to say without knowing what the market is like for you locally. There are several options in other states, members on here can definitely find them, but shipping one to you can get expensive.
Just a small correction, you are wanting a full float axle, not free float. This simple thing of one word off could change search results.

Now, are you wanting an axle that will bolt in without modifications? That would dictate getting one from a 3/4 ton truck that was '87 or older. However lots of the '81 to '87 trucks got a semi floating axle, not the full floating axle.

If you can get the cutting and welding work done yourself, or for a price that is in the budget, you could get a newer axle, and even look into one with disc brakes if you are willing to work out the changes in the braking system that are necessary.
 
Not sure on your part of the world.

Here we junk yard, cruise the Facebook classified, or good old Craig’s

And Welcome Aboard
 
Okay I am not quite sure as I am new to this but my current 10 bolt is bent and I want something stronger . Everyone I have talked to says go with the 14 bolt 3/4 ton. I can get the perches moved as I work at a metal shop . So no problem there I just don’t know where to start looking if I ask for my vehicle specific no one anywhere has a rear end . I just need to know what year and make of doner veheicle to look for . I would definitely like going with a newer one if possible and probably make it easier to find
 
Are you remembering that you will need to change wheels to 8 lug, and do something with the front axle if you want it to match?
Depending on tire size and use of the truck, you may be better off to use a smaller axle. There is a 9.5" semi floating 14 bolt that was made with a 6 lug axle flange. Or some would rebuild the 10 bolt with good aftermarket parts if the tire size and use of the truck is light enough.

Otherwise, look for an axle out of a '73 to '80 C20 or K20. A K20 getting parted out would have both axles to swap into yours and have a matched set.
 
6872xtc said:
Are you remembering that you will need to change wheels to 8 lug, and do something with the front axle if you want it to match?
Depending on tire size and use of the truck, you may be better off to use a smaller axle. There is a 9.5" semi floating 14 bolt that was made with a 6 lug axle flange. Or some would rebuild the 10 bolt with good aftermarket parts if the tire size and use of the truck is light enough.

Otherwise, look for an axle out of a '73 to '80 C20 or K20. A K20 getting parted out would have both axles to swap into yours and have a matched set.
Click to expand...
He said he bent the 10 bolt.
There's no rebuilding that
 
I'm in the middle of doing a 1 ton swap myself. If you can weld on new spring perches, then you can really go with almost ANY 14 bolt axle. Just keep driveline and brake changes in mind.

20200112_134104.jpg
 
I did a 14 bolt FF swap on my 1980 K-5 a few years ago. The donor axle was off a Suburban, don't remember the year though. I added rear disc brakes while I was at it and changed the front hubs to 8 lug so the front and rear match. I just used stock hub caps so most don't even notice it is 8 lug unless they can tell the rims are 16". The spring perches lined up perfect but the spring center bolt on the Blazer has a 1/2" head and the Suburban has a 9/16" head if I remember right so the Blazer springs need to be disassembled, the center hole drilled out to the correct diameter and the correct center bolt installed so the positioning hole in the spring perch has no slop. Once that is done it is a simple bolt on. Converting to rear disc brakes was an additional project that came out great but not required for the differential swap. You will also need to address the rear u-joint and drive shaft length. the pinion on the 14 bolt is longer than the 10 bolt and it uses the larger u-joint, but you can use a special u-joint that adapts between the two sizes, regardless the length will need to be addressed. I would send pictures but this is my first time posting to this site and don't know how.
Craig
 
They never offered the 14 bolt FF axle from the factory in a K5 Blazer, so if you calling around and asking for that axle for that vehicle then most places will tell you it doesn't exist. As stated above, the 14 bolt FF axle came in 3/4 ton (C20, K20) and 1 ton (C30, K30) trucks and Suburbans in both 2wd and 4wd. I haven't been in the market for one of these axles for a long time but 10-15 years ago all of the local junkyards sold them for $100 and could have bought an entire trailer load of them.

A few notes:
- 3/4 ton versions ('87 older pickups) would have the correct spring pad spacing for a K5
- many 3/4 tons had the smaller 9.5" semifloat 14 bolt.........this actually is a decent axle to replace a 10-bolt if you are not running huge tires or beating on it off-road alot
- 1 ton versions would need the spring pads moved
- All of the 14 bolt FF axles, and most of the 9.5" semifloat axles, used 8 lug wheels as opposed to the 6 lug wheels found stock on a K5
- there were 9.5" axles with 6 -lug bolt patterns, but not in the older trucks, so some additional modifications need performed

While most people will say a 14FF is a "bolt in" swap for a K5, it really is not a true bolt in affair. I think it's a pretty simply swap for somebody with experience, but does requires some parts other than just the axle. Assuming you have a 3/4 ton version with the proper spring pad spacing, you need u-bolts and spring plates, you have to deal with the u-joint (conversion u-joint or modify the driveshaft), and deal with the 8 lug rims....at minimum.
 
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