14-bolt FF backing plate swap--Done, but a ???

[Smitty]

I searched for this, but wasn't able to find what I wanted. Hopefully someone can help me out...

I have a 3/4 ton 14BFF with 3.73 gears in my '56 that I want to swap with my CUCV that has a 14BFF with 4.56 gears. I know about relocating the spring perches, but I'm not too sure about the brakes.

I have disc brakes installed on the 3/4 ton and the stock brakes on the CUCV. Will the backing plates and brake assemblies swap directly from one housing to the other without any modifications?

 

[Jason4x4]

yes

 

[sandawgk5]

yes

X2 they are identical with exception of spring perches.

Dik

 

[sweetk30]

same with one minor exception. early plates had bolt in ebrake cables. late had clip in style. but the shape and bends are the same.

why not just swap out the carrier with ring gear and pinion housing. then check gear pattern? be a whole lot easyer. 14ff are easy to play with for gear swaps.

 

[sandawgk5]

same with one minor exception. early plates had bolt in ebrake cables. late had clip in style. but the shape and bends are the same.

why not just swap out the carrier with ring gear and pinion housing. then check gear pattern? be a whole lot easyer. 14ff are easy to play with for gear swaps.

. That did not even cross my mind. I would recommend and gear swap also it should only take a couple of hours. Alot less time than removing and rewelding perches and swapping your disc brakes out and rebleeding they system.

Dik

 

[Smitty]

Ok I went ahead and swapped the gears and everything is working great, but I have one thing with the assembly that's bothering me. My hub (wheel) bearings use the single nut with a key and snap ring to keep it in place. My info said to torque the nut to 50 ft pounds, then tighten until I could insert the locking key. The nut was 1/2 way between slots, so I tightened until it lined up and put everything together. It just seemed like a lot more preload to put on those bearings.

Is this the correct method of adjusting the spindle nut?

 

[cybrfire]

Ok I went ahead and swapped the gears and everything is working great, but I have one thing with the assembly that's bothering me. My hub (wheel) bearings use the single nut with a key and snap ring to keep it in place. My info said to torque the nut to 50 ft pounds, then tighten until I could insert the locking key. The nut was 1/2 way between slots, so I tightened until it lined up and put everything together. It just seemed like a lot more preload to put on those bearings.

Is this the correct method of adjusting the spindle nut?

Now back it off a quarter turn and do it again and you'll probably get a better torque or position on the nut.

 

[Smitty]

Now back it off a quarter turn and do it again and you'll probably get a better torque or position on the nut.

I did that three times on each side and ended up in the same spot each time... I never actually had the hubs off, I just wanted to check the bearing preload while I had the axles out.

 

[sandawgk5]

I did that three times on each side and ended up in the same spot each time... I never actually had the hubs off, I just wanted to check the bearing preload while I had the axles out.

How do they spin by hand? I do not have that style I have the double nuts with locking plate. On mine I torque inside to 50 then back of 1/4 of a turn and then tighten to 35 and locate the first pin (I have pin and plate type locking washer like a front axle) then I torque the outer nut to 180 or something like that. I do not have the book in front of me.

If it turns fine by hand I would not worry about it. Did you rotate the hub as you torqued the nut? At work we have a saying...Dont take something apart just to make sure it is working.

Dik

 

[Smitty]

How do they spin by hand? I do not have that style I have the double nuts with locking plate. On mine I torque inside to 50 then back of 1/4 of a turn and then tighten to 35 and locate the first pin (I have pin and plate type locking washer like a front axle) then I torque the outer nut to 180 or something like that. I do not have the book in front of me.

If it turns fine by hand I would not worry about it. Did you rotate the hub as you torqued the nut? At work we have a saying...Dont take something apart just to make sure it is working.

Dik

The hub was rotated while adjusting the nut. I guess I'm just used to backing the nut off instead of tightening it past the original torque.

 

[sweetk30]

if to tight you will burn up the bearings .

 

[84zz4ss]

Maybe this will help

Adjustment Procedure


Tools Required
J 2222-C Wheel Bearing Nut Wrench

1. <LI type=1>Raise the vehicle. Refer to Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle in General Information. <LI type=1>Remove the axle shaft. Refer to Rear Axle Shaft and/or Gasket Replacement .
   
   
   
   
   <LI type=1>Remove the hub adjuster nut retaining ring.
   
   
   
   
   <LI type=1>Remove the adjuster nut lock key. Notice: Refer to Fastener Notice in Cautions and Notices.
   
   
   
   
   
   <LI type=1>Tighten the wheel bearing adjusting nut using the J 2222-C . Rotate the hub in the opposite direction to the way the adjuster nut is turning. Ensure the inner bearing and the seal seats against the spindle shoulder.
   Tighten
   Tighten the adjusting nut to 70 N·m (52 lb ft).
   <LI type=1>Turn the adjusting nut counterclockwise until the nut is loose using the J 2222-C . <LI type=1>Turn the adjusting nut clockwise until the nut contacts the bearing cone. Torque on the nut must be zero to finger tight.
   
   
   
   
   <LI type=1>Insert the adjusting nut lock key into the keyway using one of the following procedures:
   - If the adjusting nut slot is in alignment with the keyway in the axle spindle, insert the adjusting nut lock key into the keyway in the axle spindle.
   - Important: Do not turn the adjusting nut more than one slot counterclockwise in order to align the adjusting nut slot with the keyway in the axle spindle.
   If the adjusting nut slot is not aligned with the keyway in the axle spindle, turn the adjusting nut counterclockwise until the adjusting nut slot is in alignment with the keyway in the axle spindle and insert the adjusting nut lock key.​
   
   
   
   
   
   <LI type=1>Install the retaining ring. <LI type=1>Install the axle shaft. Refer to Rear Axle Shaft and/or Gasket Replacement . <LI type=1>Inspect the lubricant level and add, if necessary. Refer to Lubricant Level Check .
2. Lower the vehicle.

 

[Smitty]

Scott,

That's the process I've always used. Guess It's time to pull the axles back out and do it right. Thanks for the info!!!