14 bolt ff, couple quick questions...

[ugly_blazer]

What is the torque procedure for the wheel bearings on a 14 bolt ff?

Are the lug studs used for the drum brakes the same ones that I need to use for the disc brake swap? The spline area of the studs pressed firmly into the drum, but are too small to contact the lug holes in the rotor, so the rotor was "loose" on the studs and not centered. I know that when the studs are pressed all of the way in that the rotor will be tight, but it may not be centered. /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif

 

[NoSmog73]

You need the ones from the front of the same rotor..IIRC
I had to make the seat area smaller using the bench grinder so the studs will seat all the way inot the rotor and not be loose..

 

[4X4HIGH]

Torque the inner nut to 50 ft. lbs. as you rotate the hub then back it off and retorque it to 35 ft. lbs. and then the outer nut (if this is the style you have) torques to 50 ft. lbs.

Depending on which brake drums you had will determine if the studs will be long enough to go throught the thickness of the rotor and into the hub and still have enough thread to attach your wheel. If you have the large full cast 13" drums then you definately have the correct studs. I would worry about the rotor centering properly so long as all the studs are pressed in correctly. A word of caution for you, the head of the studs are not all alike, some studs have a larger head diameter and will not fit into the recess of some rotors so the head of the stud will need to be machined down the appropiate amount to allow them to seat properly. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif

 

[4X4HIGH]

Mike, you do not use front studs for the rear disc conversion. I just got finished explaining it for him. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif

 

[ugly_blazer]

Thanks for the info, I can't find my chilton manual and I couldn't remember the specs.