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14 bolt ff location?

wetoolowdingbangow

wetoolowdingbangow

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Hey all,

Im swapping in my 14 bolt ff in place of the 14 bolt sf thats currently under the truck this weekend. At the same time ill be putting in 56" leaf springs with zero rates and shackle flip. I still have an np208 with a slip yoke so its important to keep it in a working range.

Im curious to know if you guys are running in the stock location or 1/ 1.5 inches back?

Ive searched around a bit and it seems like the full float is longer from axle tube to yoke?
 
I have the ORD 4in shackle flip, stock 52in springs, and a 14bff. I am still running a stock rear driveshaft, and it sits almost in the factory position in the t-case.
 
does the 56" spring move it back?

I'd recommend hanging a string off the rear fender with a plumb bob to document the axle location now.
 
56'S are offset. In the factory possition, the 56's are the same as the 52's. But turned around I believe they are 3" to the rear.
 
skunked said:
does the 56" spring move it back?
Click to expand...

IIRC, the 56" pin is offset by the 4", so if you put them short side forward the axle is in the same place as on a 52". If you flip 'em around long side forward, the axle is then 4" back and wants to be come one with the gas tank.

-- A
 
dremu said:
IIRC, the 56" pin is offset by the 4", so if you put them short side forward the axle is in the same place as on a 52". If you flip 'em around long side forward, the axle is then 4" back and wants to be come one with the gas tank.

-- A
Click to expand...

Correct the offset is 26" and 30". 26 is half of 52 which means the pin location is the same as stock springs.

I guess when i roll the SF out ill measure it to see if its shorter than the FF and that will tell me what i need to do with the zero rate.
 
wetoolowdingbangow said:
Correct the offset is 26" and 30". 26 is half of 52 which means the pin location is the same as stock springs.

I guess when i roll the SF out ill measure it to see if its shorter than the FF and that will tell me what i need to do with the zero rate.
Click to expand...

I just re-read your OP and if you're adding the shackle flip, it's gonna change your geometry. Just measuring the difference at the pumpkin won't get you the whole story.

Best bet will be to measure the driveshaft length before you tear it down, then mock it up with the center pin on the axle, measure again, and decide from there if you have to shift. In other words, trial and error :(

-- A
 
I'd probably just bolt up the axle without the zero rates and see how it works out, then tweak it from there.
 
Problem is with the zero rates up front im at a rake now. I look like im from cen cal. At the least ill run the zero rate in the center position.

I guess i figure if the semi float is say an inch shorter than the FF then ill start with the 1 inch back position. Id really like to run 1 inch back if i can to keep me from trimming the front part of the rear fender as bass ackwords as that sounds.
 
I have stock rear springs and a flip on mine. When I put the 14FF in it put the yoke at almost exactly the same depth in the t-case as it was bone stock. A couple things to keep in mind about a flip. The pinion will rotate up 8 degrees if you lift 4 inches. If you run a stock type non-cv shaft you will need to address u joint angles. Also, it moved my tires forward in the wheel well but after picking it up with a fork lift I left it that way. At full compression the tires are centered in the well. They would be very close to rubbing the rear if I centered it up at ride height.

IMAG0676_zps0b6f9165.jpg


IMAG0672_zps6cabea17.jpg
 
Awesome Av8ter thats exactly what i needed to see. Luckily for me ill be welding on new perches so i can set the angle with the weight on the truck. I have 4 inch lift springs now so it should be too different. Sounds like maybe ill chance it running the 1 inch back setting on the zero rate.
 
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