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14 bolt ff swap

Chevk587

Whiskey bent & Hell bound
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So I'm getting close to getting this thing done and ready to put in but had a question on the disc brake swap what's a good way to run the emergency brake?
Also how do you post pics???
 
Best bet for a parking brake (not "emergency brake") is to keep the drums. Seriously. I've tried every damn way from Tuesday. On one truck I took the discs off and went back to drums. Properly set up, the larger sizes of drums have just as good brake performance AND a working parking brake. Sure, drums are heavy and a pain to adjust and can collect mud ... but they also work. And as Matiff points out, you don't have to dink with your hydraulics. (Lots of guys find their existing master and combo valve work fine for discs, but others change out either or both.)

Other options include:

Transfer case parking brake (only fits some T-cases, relies on rear driveshaft and pumpkin being intact.) [This is what I ended up doing on my other truck and it works for me.]

Cadillac El Dorado calipers (can be hard to find / spendier than regular ones, require adjustment)

Dual mechanical/hydraulic caliper setup (REALLY spendy, requires tons of adjustment)

Hydraulic line locks (may not be legal in all jurisdictions, alleged to leak down over time. I lied, as this is the one option I haven't tried.)

-- A
 
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Im doing the same set up and ill be running 76' El dorado calipers. The remans from rockauto go for $80 or so a piece without a core.
 
I've used my (parking brake) in a EMERGENCY a couple time and it saved me but any how I think I'm gonna go the line lock route I don't know what else to do.
 
I kept the drums because I knew the disc swap would turn into a rabbit hole. Not only parking brake, but then monkeying around with master cylinders and prop valves to get the pedal right and not have the rear lock up first.

If anyone has a solid, works every time solution, I'd like to know because the drums are pretty silly. They must weight 60 pounds.
 
A hydraulic ball valve designed for brake applications is common on medium duty trucks. It does not have the issues that a line lock does, but it does not provide you an alternate brake system for emergencies, may not be legal in your area, and/or is not ideal for indefinite use. That said, our '83 GMC c60 came from the dealer with one and has been trouble free, even when using it to park the truck on an incline all day. This truck always uses wheel chocks per legal requirements (and smart practice).
 
If anyone has a solid, works every time solution, I'd like to know because the drums are pretty silly. They must weight 60 pounds.

I'm happy with my later-model van axle. Removable drums get around the ridiculousness of the earlier axle brakes. All parts are OEM & Autozone friendly. Other than being heavy (as you mentioned), they seem to fit the bill unless you're concerned with mud buildup.
 
Mine works.

Eldorado calipers. I didn't want anything below the axle - shock tabs, calipers, brake lines/cables, etc. So mine are swapped left to right. Have to take them off to bleed them, but it put my parking brake levers in an advantageous position. A little 1" angle iron strategically fabbed up and mounted on the spring plate made it work well. You have to use the parking brake EVERY time you park to ensure it stays adjusted.

I also upgraded to the 1-ton van master cylinder. Had to put some shims behind the booster to angle it down a little to keep the larger reservoir from hitting the hood. Long story short, it is definitely a rabbit hole to make it all work, but with some patience and ingenuity it's do-able. Took me about a month off and on to get it sorted.

2013-07-01 15.47.55.jpg
 

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