CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

14 bolt ff

georgiared84

1/2 ton status
Joined
Sep 5, 2002
Posts
487
Reaction score
0
Location
Austell, Georgia
I've been looking for a 14 bolt ff for a while, and have found a few. I do have a question. I found several with the gear ratio I wanted that were in great shape internally in 1 ton vans. I know I'll have to replace the perches and shock mounts anyway, but does anyone know of any other complications with using one from a van on an 84 k5. (Other than being 8 lugs which I will be correcting in the front anyway)
Thanks! /forums/images/icons/grin.gif
 
thats it, but there is a slim chance your d-shaft might be to long, 14's have a longer pinion that the 1/2 ton stuff.
 
i do believe that the van rearends are wider so you wouldnt need a spacer to match ther width of the front; (if you wanted to that) like you would have to do with a normal truck axle.
 
Don't worry about the pinion differences between the 1/2 and 3/4 tons. They stick out about the same distance.

This question of the pinion stickout was brought up some time ago in the past and I went out to measure a 10 bolt and a 14FF I had on the ground and both stuck out the same distance. /forums/images/icons/wink.gif

The thing to watch for between these two axles are the u-joint sizes. /forums/images/icons/wink.gif
 
I remember seeing a NAPA part number for the Ujoint between a regular Drive shaft and a 14 bolt rear. You don't happen to know what I need to ask for do you? By the way, Have you noticed how little a lot of salvage yards know about interchanging parts lately?. Thay've got it all computer and the first thing they ask you is "What's it going on". I usually say "It doesn't matter, I know what I'm looking for and If I screw up it's my problem." I've learned never to say it's going on a K5 blazer because the next thing out of there mouth is "We don't have one of those". A lot of them think there's some weird curse on parts that makes them explode for mysterious reasons because you put them on something they didn't come out of. I just got off the phone with one guy who's response was" You don't want to put a rearend from a two wheel drive into a four wheel drive. It causes problems." when I asked why he proceded to give me a rundown of how everything in a four wheel drive has to be on the same ratio, etc... I replied "Don't worry about that, as long as it's somewhere between 3.86 and 4.10, I'll match the front ." He said I'd still have problems, so I hung up and called another place who said they had 3 vans and a c30 with 14 bolt rears all in the 80's so I'm heading there Saturday. There are a few places around here who still know what you're talking about. Sorry about the long post I just had to rant. I just hate computer catologed salvage yards. (When they are run by people who don't know how to use the info, understand I'm not complaining about the people who can understand basic mechanics)Had to add that in since I know we have a few members with yards.
Thanks so much for the help!!! I've found more useful info here than in a stack of manuals..
 
Only problem with a van housing is spare shafts if you brake one. Might not be able to find one quickly. If you buy some for spares, problem cured.

Napa part number for the ujoint is 348, thats a 1310 series to 1350 series ujoint. Thats what I just put into mine. They use Precision u-joints, so the same number will cross or work at all auto parts. Advance sells a PDQ (they have to order it after crossing it) for 17.99 Napa wants like 30 to 35 bucks for theirs, I got a Precision from Main auto parts in McDonough GA for 16.00 bucks each.

Depdog
 
Top Bottom