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14 bolt front axle?????

unclematty

unclematty

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THIS MIGHT BE REPOST, but I couldn't find it. I know that I saw somewhere a 14 bolt front axle, and I know that set up as usual would mean runnng on the coast side of the r&p gears, and upside down, might cause an oiling problem, so the ??? remains, can I use a 14 bolt in a front axle configuration. /forums/images/graemlins/dunno.gif /forums/images/graemlins/dunno.gif /forums/images/graemlins/dunno.gif /forums/images/graemlins/dunno.gifand if not here can I come by some d60 inner steering knuckles
 
It would be more cost effective to just buy a D60. From what I can remember it was megabucks since everything has to be custom made. You could probably buy a 60 with 35 spline top end axles and CTM's for alot less.
 
The "chunck" would not be running upside down but it would run on the coast side of the gear . It is no different than a standard GM Dana 60 version in the front - the gear would simply be running in reverse when the truck is going forward . The Dana 60 , Dana 44 and GM 10 Bolts are all running in reverse ( from a rear axle point of view ) in a front axle application - the gear knows no difference if it is in a front axle or a rear axle housing .
The drive side of the gear is the strongest but it is acceptable to run on the coast side in a front axle application . A hi-pinion reverse cut gear is stronger in a front axle application only when going forward but a standard rotation housing ( or chunk ) will not accept a gear that is designed for a reverse cut application .
Yes - you can use it in a front axle application with no oiling problems but as said above it will be exspensive if you have to pay for the tube and knuckle work .
You can order custom inner axles for the GM 30 spline 14 bolt application .
I hope this clears your question up a little bit .
Tom
 
If I remember right it was MONSTERK5CHEVY that has a front 14 bolt and got some unfair criticizm when he posted pics of it. I thought it was pretty cool!....something different than a D60/14BFF for once.
 
different sure, but if I were to do it I would offset the housing, his is centered as it is in the rear. Problem is 14 bolts ground clearance, would be better closer to a tire. Require even more custom shaft work though.
 
I had a thought before all this, that they work the same as any other axle, so why not? just need to get a hold of a couple of inner knuckles, any Ideers?? /forums/images/graemlins/waytogo.gif
 
Are you asking where to come up with inner cs? Deadenbear and Crane High Clearance make high strength 60 inner Cs. Perfect place to start a hardcore axle build up.
 
if its centered in the front.... how in the heck does it connect to the tranfer case then?Weird /forums/images/graemlins/thinking.gif
 
14b.jpg


Like this? /forums/images/graemlins/waytogo.gif


14b_2.jpg


The only thing that made it cost more then a 60 will be getting the inner shafts made, with everyhitng else I have done it hasnt cost more then a 60 would have.

I had thought about retubing a HP 60 putting it off to the correct side, but with what I have planned for the truck the 14B was better, cheaper, differrent and a lot cooler, but as rjfguitar said earlier, not everyone will agree.

I have talked to a few companies who build center drop T cases for monster trucks and that what Im going to run in the end. I was going to use the 205 clocked, but the shift rails are in the way. For now im going to clock a 243 straight down.
 
Hey thats really cool man, definatly a treat to see /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif are you the only one who has done this?How has everything held up so far? /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
 
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I have talked to a few companies who build center drop T cases for monster trucks and that what Im going to run in the end. I was going to use the 205 clocked, but the shift rails are in the way. For now im going to clock a 243 straight down.


[/ QUOTE ]

243, so you're going to have push-button 4wd?
 
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different sure, but if I were to do it I would offset the housing, his is centered as it is in the rear. Problem is 14 bolts ground clearance, would be better closer to a tire. Require even more custom shaft work though.

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He's only got to plow one path through the mud.

The driveshaft doesn't really give two rips where it goes, it's the angle that matters. Unless I'm mistaken, he'd actually need less slip in his driveshaft with the transfercase in the stock orientation with the differential in the center. I'd have to think about it a little more, I'm busy studying for a Geological Sciences (rocks for jocks) exam.

Since he put his in the middle he can put the transfercase down in the middle as well. Just about any transfercase will handle being dropped down.
 
[ QUOTE ]
[ QUOTE ]
I have talked to a few companies who build center drop T cases for monster trucks and that what Im going to run in the end. I was going to use the 205 clocked, but the shift rails are in the way. For now im going to clock a 243 straight down.


[/ QUOTE ]

243, so you're going to have push-button 4wd?

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I believe a 243 is just like all of GM's other pushbutton cases, it has a fancy-pants electric motor with gear reduction and quarter gears to turn the shaft and then uses little indexing sensors to tell what gear it is. It's real easy to eliminate that setup and run a regular shifter. Or, he can keep it, and if it fails just shift the case with a pair of vice grips.
 
Question, why not just run a ford T-case? Since the pinion is already offset a bit to the drivers side, you could run a driver side drop ford (or even 94-up dodge) T-case clocked slightly down. You would have a very slight compound angle, but not enough to worry about.
 
[ QUOTE ]
Hey thats really cool man, definatly a treat to see /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif are you the only one who has done this?How has everything held up so far? /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif

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Thanks, im glad ya like it! /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif As far as I know besides the WMS 14b, that are offset, this is the only one I have seen. I have seen a centered Dana 60 though.

Everyhitng has been just fine, no problems or anything. I have been busy and havent gotten shafts or a T case yet for it, but its next on the list.


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243, so you're going to have push-button 4wd?

[/ QUOTE ]

Correct, for now. A 243 is basically an electric shift 241. Im using that because, well its easier to shift when clocked straight down.
 
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