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14 bolt gear ratio

Seats35

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Okay I have been reading more than i have been posting. Why you say? Because i am trying to be a good grasshopper and learn things. Well my last post had no replys but i don't blame anyone im the newb. Sorry I couldn't use the pic and links option but i'll work on more posts.

This time i really need your guys help. I fixed my 10 bolt but i want to upgrade to a 14 bolt. There are 2 in phoenix for sale. One with disc brakes and the other without. I have called but have not made contact with sellers. Can you help me decide whats a good combo.

My blazer has a 6.2 diesel w/700R4. 10 bolt front and back. Right now im just concerned with the back. I won't be using tires larger than 35's and will probably only run 33's. I don't do hardcore rock climbing but i do occasionally have an itch to "test the transmission and differential for stress factors." It is a daily driver and i do take it out of town. ??? Im thinking semi float because i can still use six lugs all around.

When asking someone about a 14 bolt what should i ask and can you tell me what years don't fit my 87 blazer???

Gear ratios?
disc brakes?? Were they stock??
Are there any conversion concerns?
What are your thoughts about lockers?? (as i do not understand how they work in a rear end)

Thank you, seats 35
 
From your description, I don't think you need a 14b but if your set on it:

disc brakes are nice so if the price and condition is the same, go for that one. Rear disc brakes were not stock.

Gear ratios?

The rear axle gear ratio must match the front axle. if the new axles doesn't have the right ratio, changing gear ratio would probably cost you $500 for a shop to do it including labor.

Are there any conversion concerns?

Check that the drive shaft ujoint is the same size as the axle pinion. You might need a conversion joint. You'll need the ubolts and spring plates too.

What are your thoughts about lockers??

No rock crawling + daily driver = no need to worry about lockers. If you want one anyway, most everyone here will say the detroit locker is about the best locker available and the least amount of hassle.
 
You best bet is probably to find a 3/4T and get both axles (10B/44 front and 14BFF rear). That way you'll have the same ratios (but check anyway), you can run the same wheels front and rear, and everything is pretty much a bolt in. You will need new wheels however - but you know you wanted new wheels anyway. :D
 
yeahr

Thanks guys. Im really at a stand still. The 14 bolt was sold but i have a guy with a 12 bolt for sale. He says it has 3 inch drums and its a six lug with 3.73 gears.
Whats that all about? did he switch axles from a 10 bolt?
He's selling a pair. Front is a 10 bolt and the rear is a 12 bolt. Doesn't fit his jeep so he's selling the pair. rear bearing caps are stamped 87. Im going to look at it. Not sure if it will bolt up. My 10 bolt is getting flakey. Maybe there was more damage than i thought. Any suggestions?? Thanks again guys. And i do promise to post any helpful things i run into and also pics of my build.
 
12 Bolt is only a slight increase in strength over a 10 Bolt - nowhere near a 14 Bolt FF. Also they stopped making 12 Bolts way before '87.
 
I didn't know the gear ratio in the front end has to be the same as the rear. hmmmm. Well i hear different views about a 14 bolt. Im not dead set on one but i need my rear end beefed up. I don't mind working on conversions. I just have to save up for it. I'd rather go with quality than quantity of parts.

Again i don't do hardcore off roading. Its a daily driver but i do get the itch to beat on it. Is there a conversion kit for the 14 bolt. Whats the guesstimate on conversion parts minus the price of the 14 bolt. thanks, 35

Oh and is it true a semi 14 bolt is 6 lug?
 
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an older 8 lug 14 sf will bolt in, the newer one out of the ifs trucks that have 6 lug will require the perches to be moved, and possibly shock mounts.
u could get one of each, bolt in the 8 lug version, and pull the shafts and swap them and brakes, I think, which would require 2 axles but no welder.
 
Are you saying to put semi float 6-lug shafts in a full float housing? I don't see any way that would work.
 
no, put semifloat 6 lug shafts into a semi float 8 lug housing, then you don't need to move the perches
 
You best bet is probably to find a 3/4T and get both axles (10B/44 front and 14BFF rear). That way you'll have the same ratios (but check anyway), you can run the same wheels front and rear, and everything is pretty much a bolt in. You will need new wheels however - but you know you wanted new wheels anyway. :D

Some guy is selling a 44 front with a 14 bolt rear from a 3/4T for 500 bucks. Good deal?? Y or N.

My buddy says take it. I'll be checking it out tomorrow if it measures to the same size i'll buy them. They have new brakes and he says the diffs were rebuilt 2 years ago and been sitting for a year. The truck was parted out. ??? Im guessing their good. I mean who would put new brakes on 2 bad diffs. Oh yeah and the gears are 4:11.
 
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For something with new brakes thats not bad not really good but not bad. Make sure they are new and then try to get them for 350 :D:D

And yes its a great upgrade no matter what you will always be worrying about your 10 b rear with the 14 bolt no more worries at all
 
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