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14 bolt Gov-Loc question

H

hero

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My 10 bolt rear finally exploded. I've got a 14 bolt that I'm going to swap in. Only thing is it's a gov-loc. This is a 90% street driven blazer but it does have 38's on it. I've run a welded rear before and really like it, but it's on a 10% street driven vehicle. I'm wondering what I should do. Should I just leave the gov-loc alone and drive it since I mainly use it to drive to work and back or should I weld it so I don't have to worry about the gov-bomb exploding? I don't really want to go hunting for an open carrier so I'm not really considering that option.

What do you guys think, will the gov-loc be fine on the street with a little bit of wheeling?
 
As long as you know how they work (provided it works now!) then it won't be a problem, as long as it's operation doesn't hinder your slight offroad time. Was your 10 bolt a gov-lock? If it did what you needed it to do, then don't worry about the 14FF gov-lock

The 14FF version for some reason appears to be infinitely stronger than the 8.5" version (I'm waivering on the 9.5" version's strength rating) and most people only get rid of it so that they can go with something that is a real locker.

The gov-lock is many times over a better piece of equipment in a rig used *mainly for the street* than most any other traction aid out there, with the other coverall "as long as it is working right" :)
 
How far do you have to drive to work? Are there a whole lot of turns, or is it kinda a straight shot. If you don't have to manuver many miles through the city all the time, I would weld her up, then you will have peace of mind. But your tires are going to wear out alot faster. Some people wheel the 14ff gov loc with sucess, they say you just have to know how to properly make them lock (lightly feathering the brakes or hitting the parking brake). The 14ff gov loc is stronger than the little 10 bolt models, but It would still probably be best to weld her up if you do some serious wheeling. :bow: Ask MTMike for the pics of the gov-loc MNorby welded for him, it looks perfect. Like a custom made mini spool.
thanks,
James
 
The old 10 bolt was a gov-loc. It went out with a BANG.:D I think my drive to work (about 50 miles) would be ok with the welded rear, BUT I do drive it in the snow and ice too so I'm thinking it would be not so fun. I was hoping that the 14 bolt FF version was stronger than the 10 bolt version. The 10bolt gov-loc was fine until it blew up. I guess that's what has me leary of the 14 bolt version.
 
http://mdhines.redlinebillings.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10001/normal_Image001~0.jpg
normal_Image001%7E0.jpg


This is the way gov locks should look :D

With a 50 mile daily drive though you will eat your tires pretty quick. The peace of mind knowing you'll always have 100% traction is great but at what expense? The gov lock would unlock when I needed it most, so I called MNorby since I don't have a welder. My rig is a trailer queen, so welded diffs aren't a problem, but I probably wouldn't have done it if I daily-drove the truck.

Good luck!
 
i ran govbom in my 1 ton with 38" no problems. lots of hard gas pedel. built 400 sbc . great unit in my opinion. like said before if you know how to use them. it is still working great in my daily driver these days.
 
hero said:
The old 10 bolt was a gov-loc. It went out with a BANG.:D I think my drive to work (about 50 miles) would be ok with the welded rear, BUT I do drive it in the snow and ice too so I'm thinking it would be not so fun. I was hoping that the 14 bolt FF version was stronger than the 10 bolt version. The 10bolt gov-loc was fine until it blew up. I guess that's what has me leary of the 14 bolt version.
Click to expand...



My 14boltFF gov-loc cratered just over a month ago. I heard they were strong too.......its bullsh*t.
 
MTMike said:
normal_Image001%7E0.jpg


This is the way gov locks should look :D

With a 50 mile daily drive though you will eat your tires pretty quick. The peace of mind knowing you'll always have 100% traction is great but at what expense? The gov lock would unlock when I needed it most, so I called MNorby since I don't have a welder. My rig is a trailer queen, so welded diffs aren't a problem, but I probably wouldn't have done it if I daily-drove the truck.

Good luck!
Click to expand...
That dude welded the piss out of that thing!!!
 
DEMON44 said:
My 14boltFF gov-loc cratered just over a month ago. I heard they were strong too.......its bullsh*t.
Click to expand...

Yeah yeah, and people break the "unbreakable" 14 bolt axleshafts as well.

Everything mechanical breaks, the 14FF carrier doesn't explode like the 10/12 bolts. It's obviously a much stronger design, EVEN if it does fail.

Comparing the 14FF unit to the 10/12 bolt units isn't even close to being fair.
 
If your just driving it around I wouldnt worry about it. I have only seen 1 14bolt gov lock broken on a late 90s 3500, and it wasnt bad enough to the point where it wouldnt drive. And if/when it does break, you can get either an Eaton Posi or a detroit for it.
 
I know I know. I still drive it. It's locked up tight like a spool........

Detroit requires a carrier change though ;)
 
How do you get a gov loc to "lock" in? When it does lock is it as solid as a spool and does it stay locked when you need it to? I'm building my 77 as a wheeler with limited street use and if I find a 14 bolt with a gov loc, keep it as is? weld it? trash it for an open carrier to weld? Thanks, Kevin
 
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