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14 Bolt Idea

Kocher93

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So I was looking at an old 4 wheel magazine and was reading about 14 bolts and how people don't like them because they're a low pinion. Personally I don't care for pinion orientation. Anyway I threw a poor mans patent on my idea via usps letter just incase. What if you were to take the pinion of a 14 bolt and change it with a gear and then instead of the pinion support you put some kind of case that houses gears and chain. Making it a high pinion. I've seen this design used the other way (as in go lower) for 6 axle trucks.


Poor paint image to help my point across or to confuse even more:




Then say you could quick change out gears for highway to trail then at trail?

Comments? Ideas? Been invented?
 
I've thought about that myself, but I don't know if bolting it to the pinion would be strong enough. And the gearbox might hit the bottom of the bed during articulation/compression. The only reason I thought of it is that it'd cut down on the driveshaft angle. You could also have some gear reduction in the box if it were feasible.
 
This really isnt the point of having a "high pinion" axle. The benefit of high pinion comes in the front where you are driving the drive side of the gears vs the coast side.
 
Uhhhh, no I think the advantage of having a high pinion is to keep your driveshaft out of the rocks, and to give less driveshaft angle. Who gives a **** about where the gear is driving???

Martin
 
I imagine people are having WAY more trouble with smashed driveshafts and driveline vibrations than they are with differential gear breakage..........

Martin
 
It's not a bad Idea but IMO a solution to a non issue.

It's easy enough and almost mandatory with a longer travel suspension to run a CV type rear shaft, thus the pinion is typically pointed farther up to look at the transfer case. This usually moves the pinion up just enough to be able to avoid it.

Next is the fact that you can get a driveshaft built out of .120 at minimum or 1/4" wall tubing. There are companies that can build and balance a 1/4" wall driveshaft.

Issue solved without the installation of another gear box and lubrication issue.

Just my .02.
 
The reason why I think this is a good idea IMO is because you could take off half the case change gears to higher or lower. Driving your rig around town with your little lady? Buddy calls you up to go wheelin the next day? Sorry baby mall crawlin time is over. Change gears night before or at your wheelin location. BOOM your rockin a lower gears for your rig and you are on your way to fun times.
 
they have Tcases that do that same thing. with quik change gears and I think you can order them with the clocking position you want
 
The reason why I think this is a good idea IMO is because you could take off half the case change gears to higher or lower. Driving your rig around town with your little lady? Buddy calls you up to go wheelin the next day? Sorry baby mall crawlin time is over. Change gears night before or at your wheelin location. BOOM your rockin a lower gears for your rig and you are on your way to fun times.


So what I'm hearing you say is you will have to run two of these boxes....one on each axle ?

cause you would have to keep the ratios the same at each end.....:whistle:

and putting one of these on a front axle may cause a bunch of clearance issues....
 
The reason why I think this is a good idea IMO is because you could take off half the case change gears to higher or lower. Driving your rig around town with your little lady? Buddy calls you up to go wheelin the next day? Sorry baby mall crawlin time is over. Change gears night before or at your wheelin location. BOOM your rockin a lower gears for your rig and you are on your way to fun times.

My 5.38s drive around on the interstate just fine. A proper tcase would allow me to run something more along the lines of a 4.88 on the trail just fine.

My pinion is rotated up 14 degrees to allow for a CV shaft. With a pinion guard, I very rarely hit my driveshaft.

Have you done any of the math to figure out what options would even be feasible as far as gear ratios go? I don't see any benefit to having a 2-speed rear end that requires a ton of fiddling around just to be able to use 4x4.

You're also looking at shortening the driveshaft by quite a bit.
 
I think he means the gears that the chain ride on in his high pinion box idea. :waytogo:
 
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Yes, and no. Gears in the high pinion can be changed to a 1:1 to match the front, but considering you don't need 4 wheel drive on the road you can gear it a little higher to save some money on gas in between wheeling.
 
Not having to clock the housing would eliminate having to run more fluid. No idea if overfilling is bad for a diff like it is an engine or not, so may or may not be something to consider. I've never seen anyone say anything about having problems with lubrication in a diff due to aeration, so I'm guessing it's a non-issue. If the pinion was parallel with the ground, I assume you could go without the pinion seal, thus inherent lubing of the "gear reduction" unit.

Additionally, with a CV shaft, couldn't you clock the unit to one side or the other, eliminating/minimizing any issues with vertical clearance?

Not that I'm ever going to need one of course. Are gear reduction hubs about the same idea?
 
My bubble isn't bursted I was just spitballing an idea. Atleast it looks cool on the 14 bolt.
 

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