I have looked everywhere. Cheapest I found was a stock 8 lug for $150. Not to many semi float axles around me. I haven’t checked any junk yards.
CK5
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14 bolt semi float
- Thread starter 90GMCJim
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- semi float
Any suggestions?
Take the diff cover off? I will probably put disc brakes on it. Not to worried about the brakes.
I have new brakes going on the front. Full rebuild. Ball joints and much more. I have been looking into the front wheel stud situation. Will have to figure something out. Found a few post with good info
I suppose take the cover off, rotate the carrier, check as best you can to make sure the axle bearings/axles arent horribly worn (all you can do without removing them is seeing if you can force them up and down...in/out they will have play, normal), check ring/pinion/carrier/innards for problems, check pinion yoke for play, about all I can think of. Luckily axle assemblies like these arent too terribly prone to failure.
I just installed a set in my 89 V1500, I can get you the part number later.
What did you think of them as-installed? I actually revisited all the posts from before and those had come up, but I think it may have been the smaller head, slightly undersize knurling, and potential thread/knurl interference that kept me from trying them based on specs alone.
Your pics don't appear to show any protrusion of the knurl, so I'm thinking you had no reservations installing them?
With the ones I used discontinued, these are the only 1/2" option left I'm aware of that come close.
They looked close enough side by side with the old ones for me. The knurl still has more than 50% engagement in the bearing hub flange. I do not expect any issues for a road driven daily. I would think more about it for something you use hard offroad, like going with 3/4 ton axles.
If you drive 6hr round trip and do NOT pull the cover dont come whining here you got screwed . .
I pull them even if 2min drive . I dont trust ANYONE .
Not being rude . Just 46 years old and seen way to many so called / bad sellers / scammers . . Just trying to save you is all .
I pull them even if 2min drive . I dont trust ANYONE .
Not being rude . Just 46 years old and seen way to many so called / bad sellers / scammers . . Just trying to save you is all .
Still driving back. No offense taking. No man should whine period.
At the end of the day it is what it is.
Auburn locker 4.56 gears.
To everyone replacing the front studs with 1/2 inch? What/why?
If the rear are now going to be 14mm on the 9.5… would you not want to source 14mm studs for the front so that all wheels, lug nuts, and studs match on all 4 corners?
If the rear are now going to be 14mm on the 9.5… would you not want to source 14mm studs for the front so that all wheels, lug nuts, and studs match on all 4 corners?
I didn't like the 14mm engagement with the stock wheels. I didn't take to measuring the taper angle of the lugs, but they didn't seat right for me. I think the added width (.05" over half inch, +~ .113" vs. original 7/16") coupled with the non-pointy leading edge of the lug nut was more of a smash-flat type engagement vs. using the angled shoulder. Since the holes are already tapered, I don't think the clamping force was on a particularly strong part of the remaining metal. I'm the only one I recall that felt like this, but experience has me a bit cautious on certain things. This is one of them.
I also can't recall if there are any 14MM studs that worked as well as 1/2" in the front. The front is fairly tricky as there are depressions for the lug stud head that will only accommodate a certain diameter, you have both the rotor and hub holes that need to have a shoulder and/or knurl long to keep both of them aligned, but short enough to not interfere with the lug nut.
The lug studs used to be a lot easier to compare, Dorman's catalog USED to specify the dimensions of each lug stud by part number so you could easily compare. Now their catalog is by application, and no specs. The info is on their site, but I don't see how to find it unless you know the part number, which doesn't help in finding a proper application.
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I have been looking for new axles to go to 6 lug.
I found some for 88-98 I believe but they are shorter. I also found some from a Tahoe 2007 or 2010+ that’s real close to stock length.
6 lug 33 spline.
Let me dig info up
I found some for 88-98 I believe but they are shorter. I also found some from a Tahoe 2007 or 2010+ that’s real close to stock length.
6 lug 33 spline.
Let me dig info up
Is the auburn axle 8 lug?
Yes
Suck
There’s a 1/2” per side difference in width on the housing
In the upper left, scroll through the Resources page and see if you can find the write up snot 8 lug conversion
Obviously you need the reverse process
There’s a 1/2” per side difference in width on the housing
In the upper left, scroll through the Resources page and see if you can find the write up snot 8 lug conversion
Obviously you need the reverse process
88-98 2wd = narrow . 4wd = wider . From what i have read and seen a few .
I was just looking through. I remember someone adding 1/2” spacers to the outside. Remember that thread?
Couldn’t remember which way they converted it. But probably to 8 lug
Read through this
Added bonus, a few of those guys crossed over from here, so we have a tendency to trust those guys more
One is WillysWanter
