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14 bolt sf gov lok

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chvymudin3388

1/2 ton status
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Mar 3, 2005
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Location
orange grove ,tx
So I'm doing a 14 bolt sf swap as I said in my other thread ... Cracked it open to find 3.73's.. Good ... And a gov lok.... Bad... When I throw out the centrifugal mechanisms it doesn't seem to lock... Question now is how strong will it be if I just weld the spiders? This thing might get drove on the street once a few months .. Bad idea? It prolly won't even be road legal for another year
 
And another thing... I'm going to weld the front 10 bolt as well and was wandering if it will be a pain to drive in 2wd? I mean I wouldn't think so since the hubs will be unlocked it shouldn't be a issue right?
 
I would def. not weld the front 10 bolt. it is known to be weak, especially when locked (or welded) with big tires, and when harder wheeling. You could beef it up with Yukon shafts and what not, but by then you could've just got a dana60. I have a 14sf and a 10bolt front, but my 10 bolt is open. As far as the 14sf, the govlock in those isn't AS terrible as the one in the 10bolt, but it still isn't the best. As long as you don't put 40" plus tires on it, I think the welded 14sf should hold up ok. My 14sf still has the govlock and stock gears and I run 37s and haven't had any problems so far. good luck
 
Well I really wouldn't care if the 10 bolt blew its going to be a play toy so if it blows it blows... How long would it prolly last? I could throw a lunch box locker in it but I really don't wanna waste money on a 10 bolt
 
How do you know it doesn't lock? Are you pulling the hook to rotate the lock cam (on the clutches)? IMO, the 10-bolt gov-lock is much worse than the 9.5" version. The little ones seem to engage with a bang and blow up more often.

I think a welded 9.5" gov-lock would be plenty strong. I don't know if the carrier is as strong as the open carrier, but you don't hear many stories of them breaking.
 
The 14bolt SF and FF versions of the Gov Lock arent' nearly as bad as the 10 bolt version. I actually looked for a gov lock when i was hunting for my FF.

I'd keep it, add the friction modifier to the diff fluid, and run it. When they work properly, they work pretty good. I'm happy with the function of mine.

The main bummer is that you have to swap carriers if you are going to install something else, like a detroit.

Definitely don't weld the front 10 bolt. It will break in no time.
 
I suspect this truck is going to be abused, since he mentions driving it on the street only once in awhile, and his username has "mudin" in it. :)

Gov-lock is really a poor choice for any sort of high RPM/speed spinning tire situations, which mudding usually is, since it *unlocks* at higher wheel speeds too (equivalent to 25MPH as I recall). While it works pretty good in certain situations (low vehicle and tire speeds) any offroad situation that calls for high RPM/MPH would be better served with something that is "on" all the time like a true locker, spool, welded pinion/side gears, etc.

Don't get me wrong, I really like the 9.5" gov-lock which my truck has, but I'm also not needing it to stay locked up at higher speeds.
 
No problem. Oddly, I could find nothing from Eaton about it. Apparently they are now calling the gov-lock the "Mlocker", unless it's been redesigned and I didn't pay enough attention.
 
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