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14 bolt wheel bearings

85 Jimmy

85 Jimmy

Sheepdog
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ok, so i've been test driving the jimmy the past 2 weeks and about every 20 miles or so on the new bearings the outer wheel bearing on the passenger side will get destroyed and there will be metal shavings in the hub and it will start to leak oil out the seal. it looks like the cage is what is getting tore up. this just happened to my third set of bearings and it's always that one bearing.
anyone have any ideas? i'm getting tired of dealing with this... the other side is fine.
 
the wheel is new and it's not bent, i checked the runout and it was good. i'll check the axle shaft tonight
 
Dumb question time, I assume it's a full floater axle....

Are your lock nuts staying tq'd?

When installing the outer bearing are you driving the race back inward against the snap ring? If not, the pressure from the lock nuts will cause the race to push inward creating slack in the outer bearing assembly.
 
nvrenuf said:
Dumb question time, I assume it's a full floater axle....

Are your lock nuts staying tq'd?

When installing the outer bearing are you driving the race back inward against the snap ring? If not, the pressure from the lock nuts will cause the race to push inward creating slack in the outer bearing assembly.
Click to expand...

yes it is a full floater and the outside locking nut is staying torqued to 50 foot pounds (that's what the 14 bolt bible says they are)

i need to push the race back against the snap ring after i install the outer bearing??? i guess that could be my problem, when i install the next set i will do that. but i didn't do it to the other side and it is fine...
 
Be sure it's done on both sides.

When installing the outer race it has to go in beyond it's correct position to allow you to install the snap ring in it's groove. Once the ring is in place you need to flip the hub over and drive the race back towards the seal end until it bottoms out on the snap ring.

:thumb:
 
thanks alot!

i'll be sure to do that with the new set, and i'll pull the other side and do it to that side as well. while i'm at it i'll swap the hubs sides just to see if the hub is fudged.
 
Far out!

Hey, be watching the Southeast forum in the next couple of weeks. Readymix mentioned getting the group together sometime after the 1st of Nov. :wink1:
 
cegusman said:
What does this have to do with his issue? The bearings are oiled with the gear oil.
Click to expand...

Not when you first start driving... It take time for the gear oil to reach the bearings and they can fail before it happens. Packing them with grease keeps them lubed until the gear oil fills the bearing hubs again from normal driving.

Think about it. The first side you replace probably gets some gear oil while you have the second side jacked up. You set it down level and start driving with one side running dry until you tip the axle that direction. GM service manuals specify packing the bearings for this reason.
 
kennyw said:
Not when you first start driving... It take time for the gear oil to reach the bearings and they can fail before it happens. Packing them with grease keeps them lubed until the gear oil fills the bearing hubs again from normal driving.

Think about it. The first side you replace probably gets some gear oil while you have the second side jacked up. You set it down level and start driving with one side running dry until you tip the axle that direction. GM service manuals specify packing the bearings for this reason.
Click to expand...

when i do it the axle is level, both sides are on jackstands. after i am finished i raise one side so oil goes to that hub, then i raise the other side so oil can get into that side... before i install the bearings i soak them in gear oil...
 
nvrenuf said:
Be sure it's done on both sides.

When installing the outer race it has to go in beyond it's correct position to allow you to install the snap ring in it's groove. Once the ring is in place you need to flip the hub over and drive the race back towards the seal end until it bottoms out on the snap ring.

:thumb:
Click to expand...

Can you explain this alittle more?

assume you are talking about P#6 in the diagram

http://www.lmctruck.com/pdfcatalogs/pdf/CC/0152.pdf

I have never heard or done this so curious. I assume i have left the snap ring in place hence the reason i never knew there was one!

I have replaced wheel bearings and only ever pounded the new races in until they stop then put the bearings in and all works well.
 
Yeah, #6 is the snap ring. On a 14 bolt (and a D70HD) the outer bore of the bearing hub is smaller than the bearing therefore it must be removed / installed from the inboard end. Since the race installs from the back side there is no machined shoulder for it to rest against. Without the snap ring, pressure from the lock nuts would continue to push the race inward causing the assembly to become loose.

When removing / installing the outer bearing assy they have to be driven in deeper than necessary to allow the snap ring to be installed in it's groove. Once the ring is in, the race needs to be driven back against the ring so it doesn't move once the nuts are torqued.
 
Interesting, i will have to look into this next time i have it apart.

Makes me think i have not replaced the wheel bearings, only reused.
 
i seated the race against the snap ring yesterday and then noticed that the bearing wouldn't spin freely, so i just backed the race out (away from the snap ring) until i could spin the bearing freely by hand. is that what i needed to do our should i be able to spin the bearing with the race all the wal against the snap ring?
 
Even with the race bottomed out on the ring the bearing should still spin. Which way is the bearing/race installed - with the bearing inboard towards the leaf springs or towards the outside? It should be on the outside. If the bearing is on the inside the cage might hit the ring. :thinking:
 
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