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1410 Yoke for a slip 208...?

marv_springer

marv_springer

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I've seen rear slip yokes [mates w/ the 208 rear output] in the 1310 and 1350 variety, but did they ever make them in a 1410...? :dunno:

Marv
 
Hack and tap SYE that thing for a standard yoke and shaft combo.
 
Check the classified section. Someone is selling one that was custom made. IIRC $70 shipped.
 
The bad guys list a 1410 non cv yoke for 32 spine th400's

moz-screenshot.jpg
moz-screenshot-1.jpg
Transmission Slip Yokes
1410 new process yoke. Again, this yoke can be used in the same applications as a turbo 400 32 spline yoke above. However, the u-joint is a heavy duty ton and a half

trans21.jpg

1410 32 spline yoke -- $175.00
 
Matt,

Please post up to 85mudblazin on this post.... My membership has lapsed - and I've paid - but I can't yet PM or post in the FS section...

Marv
 
Done. You have to run normal joints with that set up BTW. But they will offer more angle.

You can also cut the slip down a bit and hack off the same amount from the tail shaft. Drill and tap the tail shaft, make a new shorter tail housing for the gear/seal system and run a normal drive shaft.

Keeping the slip in line with the D-shaft takes away the bending moment about the tail shaft. This in turn keeps the t-case system from bucking as much since the slip yokes are notorious for thier high friction while under torque. Just another complicated way to not spend money on a bling atlas or a stak or a doubler (even though some of us have had all 3 in our garage at the same time)
 
az-k5 said:
Done. You have to run normal joints with that set up BTW. But they will offer more angle.

You can also cut the slip down a bit and hack off the same amount from the tail shaft. Drill and tap the tail shaft, make a new shorter tail housing for the gear/seal system and run a normal drive shaft.

Keeping the slip in line with the D-shaft takes away the bending moment about the tail shaft. This in turn keeps the t-case system from bucking as much since the slip yokes are notorious for thier high friction while under torque. Just another complicated way to not spend money on a bling atlas or a stak or a doubler (even though some of us have had all 3 in our garage at the same time)
Click to expand...

All very true.....

I'd really like to find a solution that does not require modifying the case. It keeps the "interchangeable factor" high if I don't start modifying cases. Good example is the case repairs I just did.... I swapped position of the front/back cases and it was easy. I don't want to have a bunch of special mods to either case.

And remember.... I wanna build another one of these buggies.... [Marvota..??? ...or Marvtsubishi..???] and I need to know what works and what doesn't.

One thing for sure... I underestimated how difficult it would be to hold on to a couple of dumb ol' 208's.. :doah:

Marv
 
I still vote for drilling and tapping even with the normal un-modified set up. The drive shaft won't get any shorter and you can run the singel joints at off angles. I have for years. My rear diff is almost aligned and my t-case side is near 12-13° and it only vibes a bit when letting off the gas above 45MPH (not an issue in the beetle)
 
My 1410 yoke worked perfect for my needs, it never let me down. I was having some big binding issues even with the caddy CV I used to have, this setup offers more angle then that ever did. After pulling off the yoke today there were some marks where I could tell it was binding, but then again my rear shaft wasnt the longest and my rear drooped like 15". Nothing but a high dollar CV could fix that.
 
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