CK5
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14B Disc brake conversion.
- Thread starter -stew-
- Start date
ruffstuff specialtys no spacers in there kits. vendor here also . http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/BoltOn.html
if you plan on good holding ebrake might wana rethink disk in rear unless you do driveline ebrake on t-case for best results from what I have read other posted up.
if you plan on good holding ebrake might wana rethink disk in rear unless you do driveline ebrake on t-case for best results from what I have read other posted up.
+1 on the Ruffstuff brackets. I personally didn't want to use spacers so the bent ones fit the bill. Just got all my parts so I will doing this soon myself.
I got all my stuff (Minuus the brackets) from GubNi on Pirate - http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/axle...t-disc-brake-kit-315-shipped.html#post9210075
I got all my stuff (Minuus the brackets) from GubNi on Pirate - http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/axle...t-disc-brake-kit-315-shipped.html#post9210075
DIY4X brackets
but if I knew then what i know now, I wouldn't have done the conversion.
but if I knew then what i know now, I wouldn't have done the conversion.
Why not do the conversion ?
chulisohombre
1/2 ton status
I was also less than impressed. I did the cadi calipers and the e brake is less than ideal. I wouldn't trust It to Hold My truck on any kind of hill. I used a chock block anywhere there's a hill to Make sure it don't Roll away. The braking is better Than the drums were and the weight difference was only reason I did it. That and I would have had to replace everything in the drums to be able to use the one ton brakes since it had rotted in the joy for awhile before I got it.
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here is the disc brake swap bible: http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/14b_disc_brakes/
i'm kicking the idea of doing discs on my 14 bolt. I have everything I need except the proportioning valve, but have a few reservations.
first, there are no wheel studs that are made for this. the hole in the 3/4 ton rotors are bigger than the hole in the 14 bolt drums, so using the 14 bolt wheel studs will not center the rotors and may not fit the machined recess in the back of the rotors. there is the ford F350 lug bolts that have the shoulder and smaller diameter head, but they do not have enough knurling to engage the holes in the hub very well.
next, I have the 1 ton master cylinder (1-5/16" bore), but this has one huge reservoir and a tiny one. i'm not sure if the late model masters with the large single plastic reservoir will fit under the hood, but it seems to me that the rear disc calipers should have nearly as much fluid capacity as the front. the large reservoir of the master should be plumbed to the front brakes.
I can live without e-brakes on this rig because it has an automatic trans with 'park'.
one more little tidbit is there are heavy duty 3/4 ton calipers that will work with the conversion brackets. trucks with the towing package have them and Rock Auto lists them. these have larger 3-5/32" pistons.
I have the 13" x 3.5" drum brakes now and they work nicely, but I may swap to the discs one of these days and keep the drum stuff just in case I decide to go back.
i'm kicking the idea of doing discs on my 14 bolt. I have everything I need except the proportioning valve, but have a few reservations.
first, there are no wheel studs that are made for this. the hole in the 3/4 ton rotors are bigger than the hole in the 14 bolt drums, so using the 14 bolt wheel studs will not center the rotors and may not fit the machined recess in the back of the rotors. there is the ford F350 lug bolts that have the shoulder and smaller diameter head, but they do not have enough knurling to engage the holes in the hub very well.
next, I have the 1 ton master cylinder (1-5/16" bore), but this has one huge reservoir and a tiny one. i'm not sure if the late model masters with the large single plastic reservoir will fit under the hood, but it seems to me that the rear disc calipers should have nearly as much fluid capacity as the front. the large reservoir of the master should be plumbed to the front brakes.
I can live without e-brakes on this rig because it has an automatic trans with 'park'.
one more little tidbit is there are heavy duty 3/4 ton calipers that will work with the conversion brackets. trucks with the towing package have them and Rock Auto lists them. these have larger 3-5/32" pistons.
I have the 13" x 3.5" drum brakes now and they work nicely, but I may swap to the discs one of these days and keep the drum stuff just in case I decide to go back.
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I'm halfway thru my swap as we speak....used the DIY brackets...drivers side is done...my rotors centered fine with the 14bolt lugnuts...I have a heavy duty electric line lock for an E-brake and duel wildwood master cylinders..
Only problem so far was when I dropped the brake drum on my shin
Only problem so far was when I dropped the brake drum on my shin
I want to do this because after some quick pricing I found this to be an upgrade with will cost me no (or little) more than doing a rear brake job on my truck. (I haven't pulled my rear drums, but I have no reason to believe it doesn't need everything.) I like the package deal that was linked, I want to contact them and see if I can get it without brackets and would go with the DIY or RuffStuff brackets. Thanks for the info, sirs!
chulisohombre
1/2 ton status
My 14ff studs fit Fine. Only problem was I didn't have a press so I beat them out and messed up the threads. Bought a 20 Dollar die and rethreaded them as It would have cost 5 bucks or so a stud and was cheaper to Fix what I had. I used my stock master and prop valve and no problems. Brakes work pretty good. It's just the ebrake I had problem with. I did gut the prop valve so full pressure goes to both front and rear and took out the one way pressure valve that keeps 10 psi on the rear brake cylinder so it doesn't fully collapse.
I used DRW studs, they have a longer thread. Dorman #610-194. Any part store should have them.
I've done a couple, and have had no problems. I would recommend them. Much easier to service than inboard drums.
Martin
Martin
I used the ruffstuff brackets and it did great. The only regret I had was not replacing the prop valve because the rear brakes would lockup before the fronts on hard braking.
I got ord brackets on mine, no complaints with em. My k20 has hydroboost as well. It stops better than any other vehicle I own.
The brakes needed rebuilding anyways, so I figured if just go disc.
The brakes needed rebuilding anyways, so I figured if just go disc.
On my 1988 Suburban, I just put the smaller 1/2 ton calipers on the rear, and the biggest 3/4 ton calipers on front. Works just fine with the stock master cylinder and proportioning valve.
Martin
Martin
wasted wages
1 ton status
I have done two 14 bolts and a D60 ford rear....
Have used all TSM parts....
can't say enough about the fit and finish of the parts and tech support of these guy's ....
Have used all TSM parts....
can't say enough about the fit and finish of the parts and tech support of these guy's ....
Search under my username and you will find part numbers for plain rubber hoses. I will see if I can find it too.
