84CUCV
3/4 ton status
friend paid me to do this to his truck. truck stops better. i have a small incline in my back yard. will not hold the truck. what am i missing? have some good time into this. this has been a pia. thanks a gain guys
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14b disks with e brake doesn't work well
- Thread starter 84CUCV
- Start date
covered a lot caddy calipers don't hold the best.
if you can do the driveline ebrake kit from some places like h.a.d jesse chunk of change but haven't heard bad about those kits.
if you can do the driveline ebrake kit from some places like h.a.d jesse chunk of change but haven't heard bad about those kits.
As above, they don't seem to work all that well.
Dad had installed them on his truck, recently took them apart due to a leaking seal that contaminated the pads, and noticed one of them had not "self adjusted" properly.
As already mentioned, even initially they didn't hold very well. Would be nice if someone came up with a way to eliminate those stupid calipers and go with a more modern style. There is a reason that technology died in the 1980's.
Dad had installed them on his truck, recently took them apart due to a leaking seal that contaminated the pads, and noticed one of them had not "self adjusted" properly.
As already mentioned, even initially they didn't hold very well. Would be nice if someone came up with a way to eliminate those stupid calipers and go with a more modern style. There is a reason that technology died in the 1980's.
but still used on atv rear calipers with the same problems of frezzing up or leaking .
did the block off plate on my atv rear unit years ago after I fixed it 1 time with oem parts and 1-2 years later it was toste again .
rampage
3/4 ton status
Wasn't TSM designing a new caliper? There was never an update in this thread:
http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=288326
http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=288326
rampage
3/4 ton status
Did a quick look but must missed it somehow.
Eh. I have a set on my Blazer but found they require tremendous fiddling and haven't yet got them dialled in -- the weather lately has not motivated me to go out. They're also crazy spendy.
I went back to drums on my other truck. It's a crewcab dually with the 13 x 3.5 drums, and you know, its stops beautifully and the parking brakes HOLD.
Disc conversions are lighter and easier to clean and such, but aren't the endall to human existence some folks make 'em out to be.
-- A
y5mgisi
1 ton status
Looks good and crappy. Cant tell which it looks most like.
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Those calipers weren’t worth the crap when they were on its indigenous species of El Dorado, Riviera and Tornado. I get it why people want to swap to rear calipers to shed weight (or maybe because people read too many bolt on build threads) but if you want to stop and have a park brake that actually works like it has an auger drilled into the ground , big 13” drums are the only way to go…. or swap in a complete donor disk brake axle from a Silverado HD or RAM truck, which even those too have a little brake drum inside the rotor. Caddy calipers are undersized for a large truck to begin with then the added expense of adding a driveline brake or line lock makes the bad idea of a Caddy caliper swap even worse.
I’ve been wrenching and wheeling over 25 years and you can bet money you probably won’t see anything on the rear of my rigs other than drums…or a swapped in Silverado axle if there is a moment of weakness. These are 13’s compared to 11’s as I swapped on bigger brakes a while back. Yes, they are heavy but they stop and hold an 8,000 lb. truck with ease. Just like a semi (notice most new class 8 trucks still run drums?)
If one must have rear disks, this American Axle design used on the Silverado and RAM is well done but it is not a swappable setup outside of doing a complete rear axle. Although, wasn’t some fabrication company working on way to swap this on to older axles?
I’ve been wrenching and wheeling over 25 years and you can bet money you probably won’t see anything on the rear of my rigs other than drums…or a swapped in Silverado axle if there is a moment of weakness. These are 13’s compared to 11’s as I swapped on bigger brakes a while back. Yes, they are heavy but they stop and hold an 8,000 lb. truck with ease. Just like a semi (notice most new class 8 trucks still run drums?)
If one must have rear disks, this American Axle design used on the Silverado and RAM is well done but it is not a swappable setup outside of doing a complete rear axle. Although, wasn’t some fabrication company working on way to swap this on to older axles?
84CUCV
3/4 ton status
note sure what to do. he wants some kinda of mechanical e brake..
Dheater
Registered Member
Sorry that was my thread, they have been out for awhile. These are a very good alternate, to the caddy and El Dorado set ups. They work very well, once the set up is done, you should not be going back on them. The initial set up is not that bad either.
Pros for me- no leaking fluid, they maintain the adjustment made, and they work for there intended purpose
Cons-you have to have a dual caliper bracket-new park brake cables depending on how you mount them
These I believe address the short comings of the caddy and eldo set ups. This is just my 0.02 worth.
84CUCV
3/4 ton status
seems like a lot of money in the end.. truck stops good but he wants something else incase the breaks fail
89yimmiJ
1/2 ton status
For about $450, you can get an e-stopp, which is an electric motor that pulls the cables. All mechanical, no hydraulics.
chulisohombre
1/2 ton status
You have to use the ebrake to get the pads to adjust. You can move the lever by hand on the rotor to get it close. I have he cadi ebrakes too. I think the problem with mine is the arm that attaches to The brake shaft to engage ebrake isn't able to Pull hard enough. The original ebrake foot pedal was ratcheting to get enough of a pull on that lever to lock it in tight. Even adjusted correct on mine it doesn't hold we'll using the stock foot pedal. If we could adapt the ratcheting
Style pedal it would have enough force to fully Engage Ebrake and would work better.
Style pedal it would have enough force to fully Engage Ebrake and would work better.
79bonanza
1/2 ton status
I was thinking of using the High Angle Driveline, driveline brake. What's your thoughts on these setups as an e brake?
rampage
3/4 ton status
Let's not get the terms mixed up. You can use it as a parking brake but I wouldn't consider it an emergency brake, and I doubt if you have inspections in your area that they would consider it an acceptable emergency brake.
89yimmiJ
1/2 ton status
Correct me if I am wrong, there is truly no such thing as an emergency brake on a car/ truck. The term is used interchangeably with parking brake.
I believe what most states require is a parking brake of some sort that can be used in the event of an emergency to safely and controllably bring the vehicle to a stop as well as hold the vehicle at rest. This necessitates a system that is independent of the vehicles hydraulic brake system, therefore line locks and mico-locks can't be used. Inaddition, I don't believe the factory calipers where designed to hold that type of line pressure for extended periods of time.
In that case, wouldn't a driveline brake suffice? It applies pressure in a controlled manner?
I've been looking at the E-Stopp to see if it has a greater range of motion over the stock pedal set-up as I haven't been able to find a ratcheting style pedal assembly that I can retrofit. I believe the E-Stopp has already been approved for Parking/ Emergency brakes. I just don't know anyone that has one.
drew4x4
1/2 ton status
most states just require a completely separate braking system (mechanical OR hydraulic) to stop the vehicle... so there's no real reason a driveline e-brake wouldn't work, as long as you don't use the hydraulic system used on your primary brakes. the key is separate - a redundant hydraulic system, or a separate mechanical system.
chulisohombre
1/2 ton status
If. Did it again I'd Go high angle Rought. It holds good From what I've been told and also Gives you a stronger driveshaft at the same time if you Have them biild build one for You. I Have a one ton rear so I have a conversion joint on my driveshaft and it doesn't last more than a few Years so far.
