14B FF disc brake issues

[rcpd34]

Just installed the axle. I did the disc brake conversion at the same time. Pads were real tight and running hot. We pulled the pads and sanded them a bit to give some clearance and that helped a lot. However, now my brake light is on. Fluid is full. Any ideas?

 

[AaronJen]

New calipers or used pieces? Is it tight/getting hot on both sides? If it's only on one side, maybe a hung caliper?

 

[rcpd34]

New everything. Outside pad seems to be the issue. Calipers are working as they should.

 

[waybad1]

Were the bearings removed from the hubs during install?

 

[CGT80]

Are you using caddy calipers with a parking brake? If so did you adjust them?

 

[cybrfire]

The light being on would point toward a pressure differential between the front and rear brake circuits.

For instance, if you have a leak in the front, the pressure would be reduced in the front circuit allowing the piston in the combination valve to move toward the lower pressure side which then turns on the light on your dash.

Are the rear brakes bled pretty good? I'm not sure I've ever had to reset a valve after bleeding. Likely none of mine have ever worked properly. I've seen quite a few different ways to reset them. Don't know which is right though as I have never needed to do it. Chilton's manual would probably be the best place for the info.

EDIT, little more reading and research. Trying giving the brakes a good stomp, that is if they are fully bled and are firm.

 

[rcpd34]

Bearings were pulled and repacked. No parking brake. We bled and bled and bled some more. Used over qt of fluid. Odd they should work fine for over a week and then the light to come on only after we sanded the pads. I'll go out and stomp on the pedal a few times and see what happens. Can't hurt. Maybe I'll try bleeding some more. The pedal feels the same as before so I dunno. Not as form as I'd like, but they work fine. Maybe the MC is going bad.

 

[cybrfire]

Bearings were pulled and repacked. No parking brake. We bled and bled and bled some more. Used over qt of fluid. Odd they should work fine for over a week and then the light to come on only after we sanded the pads. I'll go out and stomp on the pedal a few times and see what happens. Can't hurt. Maybe I'll try bleeding some more. The pedal feels the same as before so I dunno. Not as form as I'd like, but they work fine. Maybe the MC is going bad.

I don't have hard data to support the theory but it seems, sometimes, a disc conversion will accelerate the death of a not so good MC. I have run into this a couple times.

 

[wasted wages]

just a random thought......The bleeders on the rear calipers are pointing straight up, right ?

heck, I've done two conversions on my rigs,,,,14B FF in the buggy and a D60 in a Furd...

gravity bled both of them with no issues.....

the calipers must have the bleeder facing straight up or you will trap air...

 

[wasted wages]

Pads were real tight and running hot. We pulled the pads and sanded them a bit to give some clearance and that helped a lot.

somethings not right.....sounds like a spacer/mounting bracket issue....

the calipers essentially "float" on the mounting pins ( bolts ) and should self align when you stomp the brake pedal.....if there is not enough clearance something is out of alignment or hanging up.....

sanding disk brake pads to fit is not the correct answer......

 

[rcpd34]

I'll be damned. I stomped the pedal a coupla times and the light went out. Go figure. And you're right about the sanding of the pads. I took about the thickness of a quarter off and it helped a lot. The outside pad is still rubbing a tad. I may have to shim one or two of the bracket bolts at some point when I have all day to screw with it. It can drive you crazy trying to get it right. I think the bracket is not quite true.