14b rear diff seal leaking

[lochenjons]

Ok great, I noticed today that there was a puddle of gear oil under my 14b. I followed the trail up the diff and it leads to the pinion. So I need to change the rear diff seal I assume. Is this even what its called? I'm gonna get it from autozone so I ahve to make sure I know the exact name cause they wont understand if I try to explain. How hard is this to do? My buddy did it to his furd explorer and said it was really easy so if its easy on his ferd I assume itll be pretty easy on my chevy 14b.

And some good news: I FINALLY found my vacuum leak. Its the hose that leads to the charcoal canister from the carb, it was always loose so I figured I'd spray a load of carb cleaner there and the idle went down a bit. So I guess Ill just put a hose clamp over it and be good to go

 

[dremu]

The pinion seal is cheap. Read up on the pinion crush sleeve, however -- I have some posts about it, for instance -- as you'll hafta deal with it one way or another to replace the seal.

-- A

 

[Mudstud]

My rear seal was like $30. Note that the 14 bolt yoke is on the pinion TIGHT. You wil have to pull it or beat it off with a BFH. Getting it back on will require a big air gun or some stupid strong guys.


Yes, I said 'beat it off'.

 

[kennyw]

Since the 14FF uses a crush sleeve it makes it a little harder than axles that just use shims. The seal should be called an "Axle Pinion Seal" or something to that effect. Better yet, look up the part and price on www.autozone.com yourself before going into the store. A lot less headaches dealing with kids behind the counter if you can tell them the exact part #.

 

[Mudstud]

A lot less headaches dealing with kids behind the counter if you can tell them the exact part #.

I dunno about that. They give me the blank stare when I give them a part number. They still wanna go thru the make, model, engine size, tire size, color of rad fluid, 2 bbl or 4, does the heat work, does it have rear window defogger, etc to get to my part.

 

[Chrisblazzer89]

I dunno about that. They give me the blank stare when I give them a part number. They still wanna go thru the make, model, engine size, tire size, color of rad fluid, 2 bbl or 4, does the heat work, does it have rear window defogger, etc to get to my part.

LOL

SO true so true

 

[lochenjons]

The pinion seal is cheap. Read up on the pinion crush sleeve, however -- I have some posts about it, for instance -- as you'll hafta deal with it one way or another to replace the seal.

-- A

Great. What I've read so far doesnt sound so good. Only 600-800 ft/lbs to start to crush it?? And once how do I know how much to "crush" it? And do I need to get a new crush sleeve too? Aside from getting the amount of torque to unbolt and bolt back on, how hard is this to do? Precision work isn't something I do very...well, precisely

 

[Mudstud]

I think you'll do fine if you can loosen it and get the yoke off and then tighten the holy crap out of it with abreaker bar and it should be good to go. I'm sure someone else will think this idea is a smart as socks on a rooster on a newly waxed floor but it's what I would do. Just check that pinion nut every week for the first month or two make sure it ain't loosing up.

Note- the high torque numbers are to begin to crush it. Once it begins to crush it only takes a fraction of that to keep it going.

 

[kennyw]

If you look around you should be able to find a torque value for re-using a crush sleeve for an application like you have. Since your crush sleeve is already crushed you don't have to do that over again.

 

[MattK]

I think you'll do fine if you can loosen it and get the yoke off and then tighten the holy crap out of it with abreaker bar and it should be good to go. I'm sure someone else will think this idea is a smart as socks on a rooster on a newly waxed floor but it's what I would do. Just check that pinion nut every week for the first month or two make sure it ain't loosing up.

Note- the high torque numbers are to begin to crush it. Once it begins to crush it only takes a fraction of that to keep it going.

[hijack] [/hijack]

 

[dremu]

The relevant threads WITH the answers:

http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=189219&highlight=pinion+seal

http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=196188&highlight=pinion+seal

The first one should have everything you need.

-- A

 

[4X4HIGH]

You should ALWAYS replace the crush sleeve when doing a pinion seal. I did not even look at the links that Dremu posted as i'm sure my reply is in there as well. Aaron brought his pinion support to my shop and i did the job for him. It takes about 5-10 TONS to get the crush sleeve to start to crush but it crushes VERY FAST afterwards.

 

[lochenjons]

You should ALWAYS replace the crush sleeve when doing a pinion seal. I did not even look at the links that Dremu posted as i'm sure my reply is in there as well. Aaron brought his pinion support to my shop and i did the job for him. It takes about 5-10 TONS to get the crush sleeve to start to crush but it crushes VERY FAST afterwards.

Is this something also availbe at autozone? How much is it about? Besides the immense amount of force needed the job is pretty straighforward correct?

 

[4X4HIGH]

The crush sleeve is easiest to get from the dealer. If you have a shop press then put the crush sleeve in the press and CAREFULLY get it to start to crush then it will crush much easier.