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14BFF burb Install

C

Cancleaner

1/2 ton status
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Feb 11, 2012
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Euless Tx
Okay, so my 10 bolt rear axle is going out (previous Post) , the lift blocks were no good, and the frame is feeling stressed at the shock mounts.:woot:

SO, with out any further procrastination, I asked my buddy if I could borrow his little work shop for a bit. After a tad bit of trimming around the doors I got "fat Frank" to roll in. With out haste I got right to work rippin everything out:hack:



I am posting my work as I have very little knowledge of axles, gearing, drive angles, shock mounting etc. Like "big brother" I am making it public here as so I can receive the slap of the back of the neck if and when I may be about to screw up :whistle:

A few pics to get started??


Here's my truck "flexin" :doah:No, but really, what I've got done today

carrnage.jpg


While I am waiting for parts, got a few things to square away.

( I did not "repair" this, however, I do feel very good about my welding skills now :rolleyes:)

cheesyweld.jpg



Say no to crack

crackedframe-1.jpg




I had bought a 14BSF before doing all my research, which had me getting the wrong one. However, I did find another, will be getting it this week.

I am still on the fence about which way to go with the shackle flip. That being said, has anyone heard of this out fit, or seen these?

http://www.gatsbycars.com/k7387.html


Not trying to be TOO cheap, but .. still have a lot to do, I know cash can run dry quick.

Will be dropping the fuel tank tomorrow, Will post pics of repairs as they get done!

Of course advice , guidance , knowledge and constructive criticism very much appreciated :popcorn:
 
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Is that second pic to the left side shock mount? I am asking because I have something that is broke off my frame there. Been wondering if was a shock mount. If so that means the PO must have drilled a new howle in the frame.
 
That's the first time I've seen those shackle flip kits.......I don't know how well those will hold up. First, the metal is 1/8" or 3/16" with no bracing. It only bolts to the side of the frame, all other shackle flips tie into the bottom of the frame as well, as does the factory mount.
I don't think you should go with the cheaper way out in this case. If you do I think you'll regret it later.
I like the DIY4X shackle flip myself it's a few dollars more than ORD's, but it changes the shackle to the standard flat bar style and those shackles are a boat load cheaper.
 
RollinKaos said:
Is that second pic to the left side shock mount? I am asking because I have something that is broke off my frame there. Been wondering if was a shock mount. If so that means the PO must have drilled a new howle in the frame.
Click to expand...

Im am not 100% but I do belive it is. I am going to repair and beef up both sides. I still cant see why they did the drivers side that way.. You would think they would be he same.



ChrisPerry, I have to agree, those do look a little thin. Almost resembles the front hangers of a 2wd I've read about some guys doing. I thought I could beef them up more with a few gussets and what not. I love the DIY and ORD flip shackles, now those are BeeFy! Looking at considerable more coin tho, considering also adding on the greasable fittings and what not. I defiantly won't be reusing the stock shackle.
 
ChrisPerry said:
That's the first time I've seen those shackle flip kits.......I don't know how well those will hold up. First, the metal is 1/8" or 3/16" with no bracing. It only bolts to the side of the frame, all other shackle flips tie into the bottom of the frame as well, as does the factory mount.
I don't think you should go with the cheaper way out in this case. If you do I think you'll regret it later.
I like the DIY4X shackle flip myself it's a few dollars more than ORD's, but it changes the shackle to the standard flat bar style and those shackles are a boat load cheaper.
Click to expand...

I would say if you get the braket with the brace, and then use the stock brace that goes fron the bottom of the frame it actually will be pretty strong, I like the fact they got it designed to the same position as stock but with the bottom open.
I would use it as I described in a heartbeat.
You also got to remember the shackle end doesn't get as much abuse as the main eye on the front, even the stock mounts where braced lightly on the shackle side compared to the front eye with a crossmember and braces.
The shackle takes most of the abuse there, and only transmits little back to the mount.
 
I have an 87' and did the ORD 4" shackle flip and the ORD 4.5" super shackle. I could not be happier. Install was a breeze and the kit is top notch!
 
Well I skipped one day, but today was slow at work so I got more done on the burb.

Went ahead and got the fuel tank out. I heard guys getting new shackle mounts in with out removing the tank, but I will be a lot of sparks flying so I just got it over with. I cut out a little "access" piece up top. I'll go back later and make a little hatch there.

:grind:


fuelaccsess.jpg


fuel tank OuT

tank.jpg



I also got started on the frame repairs and getting the old shackle mounts off. I actually made my groove wider than the pic, I just keep forgetting my camera and I am having to use my phone :whistle:

Any how, I made two passes at it. I'll be going back in later to further support that area with some flat stock.


crackvoided.jpg


crackswelded.jpg


finally , ground the welds smooth (so I can put the flats over it flush) and primed it.

weldsprimed.jpg



Shackle mount deleted. The one side anyhow.

mountdeleted.jpg




I went ahead and ordered up the DIY shackle flip. I suspect it'll be here by the end of the week. I can imagine I could really go wrong this way :waytogo:
By the time I get those installed I recon that will be about the time I'll be needing some better guidance.

:bow:
 
Good call. I wouldn't want to try and get those brakets installed with the tank in. I looked at it and have no idea how you would back up that nut. You must have fuel imjection my. My tank didn't have near that many lines and I got it out without cutting the floor. Replaced the leaky filler line while I was in there. Pretty nasty cracks in that frame. Looks like you did a really thorough repair job.
 
As far as backing up the bolts. Slide on the first nut and thread it down as far as u can, then add two more and tighten them down against each other and use that for back up :-)

And yes, I'm fuel injected and supercharged :-D!
 
OK fellas, I got me a 14 BFF for FREE! :waytogo: It is off a 92 chevy 2500 truck. Not ideal but I hope it works cus IT WAS FREE. Will this work?

I know I'll have to move the spring and shock mounts. Referring back to my first pics. How do I put the axle on the truck, allow the full weight of the truck to sit on the axle/purchase to acquire the proper pinion angle before I weld to the axle??? Any tips and or tricks would be appreciated!

My new/used 14 BFF (minus hubs and backing plates for service)

14BFF.jpg



Ring shows to be 4.10 gear ratio.



ring.jpg




Thanks everybody for your help as usual. :bow::bow: Very much appreciated! Getting this thing set up correctly is number 1 priority.
 
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I believe that it should bolt in as is. You only have to move the perches and shock mounts when it is from a 3500 truck. The shock mounts look right in the pic, and the spring perches from a 92 are within like 1/2" IIRC.
 
Still awaiting parts. Though I might just go ahead and media blast a few parts.


My lil home made blasting cabinet :rolleyes:

blasted1.jpg




A little semi gloss

blasted2.jpg
 
You oughta throw discs on that axle while you have it off! Its not much even if you buy the calipers and rotors new.
 
hillbilly deluxe said:
You oughta throw discs on that axle while you have it off! Its not much even if you buy the calipers and rotors new.
Click to expand...


PleAse feel free to elaborate !! Please! I have done a tiny bit of searching , but understand e brakes are an issue ( need that yearly state inspection ) Also, any way at all to convert to a 6 lug? My expensive issue now is I currently have 15" wheels. Now I gotta buy all new wheels AND tires :-/
 
I used these and they were a great fit.
http://diy4x.com/cart/index.php?route=product/product&path=37&product_id=35
I read alot about needing a proportioning valve but I didn't use one and they work fine. As it says on the page you need Cadillac calipers to run an e-brake. I didn't do that.
Calipers $44 each, pads $20 set, rotors $40 each, DIT kit $67 = $255. Not bad! If you get junkyard parts it can be cheaper. I had some junkyard stuff but it looked like crap so I just bought the parts.

The Eldorado calipers that have e-brake capability are quite a bit more elusive and expensive. It sucks you guys in Texas have those inspections!
 
I was thinking about your swap and I have no idea how to go to 6 lug. Somebody on here probably does. I think the drums on that 14 bolt may be too big for 15" wheels even if you could get 6 lug hubs on there somehow. I thought maybe the parts from that semi floater might work but I'm sure they're completely different. I know if you look around you will find people have to grind their calipers on D60's to get 15" wheels on them. I think 8 lug is way better but then you need a new front axle or at least some hubs that are 8 lug.
 
There is a way to make the 14 b ff into six lug, it might cost as much as a new set of wheels though but for me it's another reason so I am doing it.

hillbilly deluxe said:
I was thinking about your swap and I have no idea how to go to 6 lug. Somebody on here probably does. I think the drums on that 14 bolt may be too big for 15" wheels even if you could get 6 lug hubs on there somehow. I thought maybe the parts from that semi floater might work but I'm sure they're completely different. I know if you look around you will find people have to grind their calipers on D60's to get 15" wheels on them. I think 8 lug is way better but then you need a new front axle or at least some hubs that are 8 lug.
Click to expand...
 
There are a few companies that will make custom hubs for 6 lug wheels, but they are PRICY. Like $500 for a set
 
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