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14BFF Disc Conversion dilema

skidog1us

skidog1us

1/2 ton status
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Location
Auburn, Washington, USA
I have completed rebuilding a 14BFF and installed a Disc Brake Conversion using DIY4X brackets and TSM Calipers with e-brake.

Once all put together and torqued I can barely rotate the hub/wheel assembly...way too much drag/pad pressure is my guess.

This concerns me since the brake lines aren't installed, so I haven't applied any pressure to the caliper piston.

Has anyone else ran into this situation? What ideas does the CK5 brotherhood have on this one?
 
Are the axle shafts installed? Is the drag the same with & without the axles installed? Remember, with them installed you have the added drag of the carrier guts or the entire assembly if you have a locker.
 
nvrunef...yes the axle shafts are installed. Followed the process of preloading the spindle nut to 50 ft-lbs, then back off and retorque to 25-30 ft-lbs, IIRC...definitely could not go any tighter or I couldn't turn the wheel/hud at all.

4xcrazy...seem to be. Like I said, I haven't applied any pressure to the pistons and made sure to keep them open with a wood block before installing...still very tight. If I open the bleeder will that allow me to push piston it...if it will move?

texas4x4rebel...seems to be the pads are tight and dragging.
 
Is the drag present without the caliper installed? If so, then it's probably the preload on the bearings.

E-brake adjustment too tight?
 
I have the exact same setup. Assuming there's no mechanical/installation problem, once you get the lines installed and the system bled, the pads will loosen up. Obviously make sure the parking brake isn't on.
 
skidog1us said:
nvrunef...yes the axle shafts are installed. Followed the process of preloading the spindle nut to 50 ft-lbs, then back off and retorque to 25-30 ft-lbs, IIRC...definitely could not go any tighter or I couldn't turn the wheel/hud at all.

4xcrazy...seem to be. Like I said, I haven't applied any pressure to the pistons and made sure to keep them open with a wood block before installing...still very tight. If I open the bleeder will that allow me to push piston it...if it will move?

texas4x4rebel...seems to be the pads are tight and dragging.
Click to expand...


After the 25-30# re-torque you still need to back the nut off ~1/4 turn.
 
Is it one pad or both?

If only one, Inside or outside?

Did you replace races and bearings?
 
Take the caliper off and see if it is the pads holding back. I had a similar problem, Turned out my brackets needed a little bit of a love tap because the outside pads were right up against the rotor. If that be the case, use a 2x4 and a hammer and give the bracket a couple taps till the rotor is center in the caliper. Doesn't take much

If its not the pads, recheck your adjustment on the spindle nuts.
 
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