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14BFF drum removal

Mastiff

Mastiff

1/2 ton status
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I need to get the drum off my CUCV (1986) 14BFF axle. I have the shop manual, but it's not clear exactly what I have to do just to get the drum off. It has a section on pretty much tearing everything down to the bearings. Can someone explain what needs to be done just to get the drum off to access the brake parts?

I see that I need to pull the axle out, but then? Do I need to remove the outer bearings, or can I just remove the "adjusting nut" and pull it off in one big piece?

TIA
 
Remove your axle on the drum you are trying to remove. Inside the hub, there is a locking nut you need to remove. You will need a special socket, 6 tabs, to remove the nut. Afterwards, take the washer out and then there is a another nut you must remove. Once that nut is removed, just pull the drum off. You may need to you a dead blow or hammer to free it up, but it should come off without too much of a problem. Good luck!!!
 
Is lube from the diff going to try and pour out when I remove the axle? Should I jack it up at an angle or something?
 
some will leak out... or small stream.. not like it is going to gush ya...

I use a box and put a trash bag in it to catch it...

good luck man...

p.s. the special socket for the 14bolt is the same as the one for the front d60 :wink1:
 
I went looking for special socket and neither of the shops I went to knew what I needed. I'll need to take it partially apart to see what it looks like. Is there pretty much only one kind with 6 tabs? I found one at O'Reilly with 6 tabs, but it said it was for one ton 4x4 front hubs or something.
 
Mastiff said:
I went looking for special socket and neither of the shops I went to knew what I needed. I'll need to take it partially apart to see what it looks like. Is there pretty much only one kind with 6 tabs? I found one at O'Reilly with 6 tabs, but it said it was for one ton 4x4 front hubs or something.
Click to expand...
thats the one, read up a post or two, he said it is the same one for a D60 front(1 ton 4x4)
 
Thanks. I just pulled the axle out, so now it's pretty obvious what I need. By the way, how do you get the key out? Just try and get vice grips on it and pull? I tried some needle nose pliers, and it seems pretty tight.
 
Mastiff said:
Thanks. I just pulled the axle out, so now it's pretty obvious what I need. By the way, how do you get the key out? Just try and get vice grips on it and pull? I tried some needle nose pliers, and it seems pretty tight.
Click to expand...
did you remove the snapring?

if yes, i use a magnet, and wiggle the nut till the key comes out





if that is the one i am thinking of.........................
 
Yeah, snapring is out. I just tried to yank the key out. Sounds like maybe the nut is pressing againt the key. I'll get the tool and work the nut a little and see if the key loosens up. Thanks again.
 
Well, this turned out to be a pretty easy job. :thumb:

The only problem was that the last guy must have gone at everything with an air wrench or something. One of the axle nuts was stripped (I had to re-tap the hole), and half the lugs nuts are also stripped. I had my 850 ft-lb impact wrench on full and it took a while to loosen them. :mad1:

A question: Are the bearings greased, or kept alive by gear oil from the diff? It looks like diff oil gets to them, but I also saw some grease in various places. If they are greased, these ones really need repacking since I could see right through them.
 
The bearings are lubed by the gear oil, just make sure you aren't low on the oil after you reassemble everything.
 
Well, I was just about to wrap up this project of replacing the parking brake cables, and I noticed one of my wheel cylinders wasn't right. One of the little connector rod things that connects to the sides of the wheel cylinders is gone. I found it on the ground later, all kind of mangled up.

Do you guys think I can find a replacement for that and just put it in, or do I have to buy an entire wheel cyliner setup? There's no brake fluid leaking or anything, and it looks like it's been working, since the shoe that still has the connector is more worn down.

I realize this is just general maintenance stuff, but I've never torn apart a drum brake setup before. TIA
 
It would probalbly just be best to buy a new cylinder. I think they are $20 at the local auto shops. That way you get new seals on both ends and wont have to worry about matching the new pushrod to the old seal. I've seen it where just replacing the pushrod ends up with a leaky seal and uneven braking in the rear, which can be pretty scary.

Al
 
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