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14bff from a 3500

Hubnut

Hubnut

1/2 ton status
Joined
Dec 21, 2008
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Location
Gainesville, FL
I have the opportunity to buy a 14 bolt full floater from a chevy 3500. Gears are 4.10 with 70,000 miles. Question is, it's a dually. Can that hub be flipped or replaced cheaply to make the track correct for my K5? Or should I just keep looking? He wants $250 for it and I've been wanted to upgrade my 1/2 ton axles. Thanks!

14bolt.jpg
 
thats a c&c narrow style rear end.

its the same width axle housing only. but the drw hubs and all the brakes are specificly drw only.

yes you can swap out the hubs to srw but the brakes will need to be swaped out also. drums are diffrent back space and so on. the backing plate flange thats welded on the axles is in a diffrent place also.

last the 250 is a high price for a 14ff and most people cant give away a c&c rear as to narrow unless you are running a jeep.

and being a 1ton rear it wont direct bolt to your k5. find a 3/4 ton rear 14ff for single wheel and bolt in needs.
 
What's a C&C? Thank you for the help. I think I'll pass on this one. What should I be looking for if I want to upgrade the axle on my truck now? I'm a little confused and am new to chevys. Please keep it simple--I'm slow. Thanks.
 
c&c = cab and chassie like flatbed / dump truck / box truck on the back. vary narrow rear axle.

you need to find a 3/4 ton rear axle for basic bolt in needs. or if you find a 1ton you will need to cut off the axle perches and shock mounts. then get a new set from vendors here and weld them on in the correct locations.

1/2 ton and 3/4 ton is 42.5" width on the rear spring spacing.
1ton is 40.5" width on the rear spring spacing to make room for axles like the c&c narrow duelly rear tires moving in.
 
SweetK30,
Thank you sir! That is just what I needed. Does the year of manufacture matter for the direct bolt in 3/4 ton? I have a 1991.
 
You would also need a conversion u-joint for the swap (NAPA# 447) and new spring plates. Unless your running blocks, then there's enough give in the longer u-bolts to use the stock plates.
 
I think, if you look at bill's site, you will see that if you change the hubs it will have the same wheel spacing as all other 14bffs. The preches and bolt plates are a differenet spacing like some one said.

You could convert the hubs, put on disc breaks and weld on new perches, which is what I did.

As stated on Bill's site:

The SRW and C&C axles use the same housings and shafts, with the difference in width being in the hubs.


[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]The SRW and C&C axles use the same housings and shafts, with the difference in width being in the hubs. The housings are actuallly identical except for the location of the backing plate flange. Drums & hubs are different, but backing plates, shoes, and wheel cylinders are the same) * The SRW and Van axles use the same hubs, the C&C and DRW axles use the same hubs; Though different, the SRW/Van hubs and the C&C/DRW hubs can be interchanged causing a change to the axles WMS (see pics below) SRW and C&C axle shafts are the same ** Van, DRW, and SRW/C&C axle shafts are all different lengths as follows (long/right side / short/left side):
Click to expand...

  • [FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Type 1 - SRW/C&C - 37-5/8" / 31-5/8"Type 2 - DRW - ??[/FONT]
  • [FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Type 3 - Van - 39-3/8" / 33-3/8"[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]C&C and dually brakes are the same.In all cases one side axleshaft is shorter than the other; pinions are centered. 1350 appears to be the only available stock pinion yoke.1-tons feature 40.5" perch spacing - whether C&C or pickup, whether SRW or DRW. 3/4-ton is 42.5" spacing. (COUNTER) - The perchs on my C&C measure 36"Wheel studs went metric for the 88-up C/K trucks, and 96-up vans[/FONT]

[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Front 60 and rear 14b spindles have the same bearing spacing and same bearing journal sizes. Seal journal is different[/FONT]
Click to expand...

So the difference in length is due to the hubs. If you put SRW hubs on, convert to disc brake (you'd have to use the weld on brackets, not bolt on because of the flang spacing) you have the same axle but you now have the reenforced-ribbed housing from the C&C later models.

As someone said, it might not be worth the money or effort to do this work. Or you could use this information to talk the guy down in price explaining how you would have to spend the extra cash to make it work for you.[/FONT]
 
Last edited:
yes its the same axle as srw BUT the flange for the backing plate to bolt on is set back farther. you would need 2 new and reweld them in the single wheel position and a set of srw drums also as the backspace is diffrent for them .
 
sweetk30 said:
yes its the same axle as srw BUT the flange for the backing plate to bolt on is set back farther. you would need 2 new and reweld them in the single wheel position and a set of srw drums also as the backspace is diffrent for them .
Click to expand...

Agreed, the bolt flange is no where near the same location as SRW, all else is the same.
 
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