CK5
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14bff leak.
- Thread starter 77_Jimmy
- Start date
Yes, just put some sealant on it. There will probably be some shims in there too.
and make sure you get the pinion housing back in the same way. its a non offset 6 bolt pattern. can be clocked around. but this will plug the oil hole off it not set right.
pull it and clean it. take little rtv on it then razor blade it flat and thin and smack it back in and 65 ft lbs on the bolts.
pull it and clean it. take little rtv on it then razor blade it flat and thin and smack it back in and 65 ft lbs on the bolts.
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OK , thanks guys. It looks like the shop that setup the gears didn't put a gasket there. One could see the shims but not a gasket. It was just seeping when I first got back , no big deal. But now it leaks a little more and when it hits the drive shaft the oil gets slung everywhere. I just wanted to check to see if it was something I could do in my garage.
fyi there is no gasket there. just thin coat of sealer if thay leak.
i dont give them a chance to leak i seal them all. so this dont happen.
and purple power is a good cleaner stright no water mix. will clean the oil up good.
i dont give them a chance to leak i seal them all. so this dont happen.
and purple power is a good cleaner stright no water mix. will clean the oil up good.
im bout to reinstall mine, should i put rtv on the shims or jus pinion carrier and main houseing surfaces? and what do you mean "smack it and back it"? on the shim holes are kinda beavalled?(not sure if spelt it right) but should i replace the shims?
fixed it.
smack it back in
little on just the radius of the body that holds the shim centered and fits in the axle.
and use the same shim removed will be fine.
smack it back in
little on just the radius of the body that holds the shim centered and fits in the axle.
and use the same shim removed will be fine.
I've never used RTV on a 14 bolt and never had a leak. I don't use RTV because it can potentially mess up the pinion depth.
If the surface are clean and not burred the shims will seal it. If there is sand/grit between the shims, the diff/pinion support surfaces are messed up etc then it may leak.
If the surface are clean and not burred the shims will seal it. If there is sand/grit between the shims, the diff/pinion support surfaces are messed up etc then it may leak.
are these shims good to use?or should i try flattening the lip where the holes are?
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There is an indexing hole.
Yep, the bolt pattern IS NOT symmetrical. He must have one of those super rare 14ff axles.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/PR-ARB/articles/14b_Gear_Setup/ 3/4 the way down talks about it.
not acording to the almighty write up gods
not acording to the almighty write up gods
http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/PR-ARB/articles/14b_Gear_Setup/ 3/4 the way down talks about it.
not acording to the almighty write up gods
Interesting. I can't imagine the bolt pattern every changed over the years. If memory serves, the bolt hole that is in the 10 o'clock position is the indexing hole.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/PR-ARB/articles/14b_Gear_Setup/ 3/4 the way down talks about it.
not acording to the almighty write up gods
I've read write ups that said that 14 bolts use 14 ring gear bolts (when they actually use 12).
The bolt pattern is NOT symmetrical, you can only put it on one way.
well got it back together. took it on a few test drives. no leaks and feels good. i also bought new ujoint caps from the dealer using the partnumber listed on the 14blt bible. one cap fit great. the other had a gap on one side of the ubolt...like it was bent? anybody else get one like this? 
im goin to take it back tomarrow...and try to get another....
im goin to take it back tomarrow...and try to get another....
well got it back together. took it on a few test drives. no leaks and feels good. i also bought new ujoint caps from the dealer using the partnumber listed on the 14blt bible. one cap fit great. the other had a gap on one side of the ubolt...like it was bent? anybody else get one like this?
I think you mean u-joint straps, and they are notoriously poor fitting. The answer is to swap to a u-joint style yoke or seriously loc-tite the bolts (make sure everything is SUPER clean).
I have had my straps/bolts tacked on for a while now, doesn't eliminate the failure of the strap itself (which I've seen happen a couple times) but it does make sure the bolt won't come loose which is usually how the strap system fails. If the bolts don't come loose they hold up ok (unless you really grind them against the rocks).
None of the straps seem to fit really well, they all (including the Spicer ones) seem to always leave a gap between the u-joint cap and strap. Luckily on the FF 14 bolt most of the u-joint cap is sunk further in the yoke compared to most others, so the cap doesn't do a ton of work.
U-bolts are better, no question. Straps that are close but not quite right are probably the right ones if you can get bolts through them.
well that makes me feel alittle better, since i just payed 100$ for a new yoke. and just put a new crush sleeve in it. so i went by dealer today and pickd up another strap hoping to get lucky and it will fit like the other one. but nopeso i took it to a bench grinder and ran the surface of the strap that is flush to the yoke. and it fits like a charm. 
any concerns of this? and used red thread lock on bolts too 
so i took it to a bench grinder and ran the surface of the strap that is flush to the yoke. and it fits like a charm. any concerns of this? and used red thread lock on bolts too 
