14bff with 33's

[bp71k5]

So I'm having second thoughts on sticking with 33's after reading some threads about the 14bff axle.

Since I need new wheels\tires anyway, I'm considering going up to 35's, but trimming fenders is not an option. Anyone have any pictures of a really fender stuffed 35" tire on a first gen? I've got a 4" lift in the front and that's where I'm thinking the most problems will be.

 

[AJs72K5]

Depending on how hard you wheel it, the front end will definately be where the bulk of your rubbing occurs. Are you already running zero rates? They would certainly help give you clearance on the 35s without reworking your whole suspension.

My 2 cents? If you've already got the axle, I wouldn't give it a second thought. Super easy to work on and parts are easy to find. No regrets on mine so far.

 

[bp71k5]

If you've already got the axle, I wouldn't give it a second thought.

The axle's going on no matter what, it's the tires I'm debating still. Since I can't use my practically new 15" 33's, I'm wondering if I should just get 16" 33's or go with 35's. Looking at the tires, it looks like 35's might be a bit big.

I do have zero rates I can use, but I already need a rope to climb in and was trying to avoid any more lift if I could help it. What size tires are you running?

Edit: I dug a bit and it looks like you have the equivalent of 35's. They look pretty good and don't look like they'd rub that bad. What size lift is on there?

 

[vtblazer]

A 4" lift and 35's will rub and do damage if you wheel it at all, you might say that your only going to do 'light' wheeling but it's only a matter of time, it'll happen at some point.

You'll be much safer with 6"s of lift if you choose to run 35's.

There's a sticky thread somewhere showing a bunch of different trucks and their lift/tire combos.

Question though,
Why go to a 14BFF if you wanted to stay with the 33's?
Sounds like you just opened up the proverbial can.

 

[bp71k5]

Why go to a 14BFF if you wanted to stay with the 33's?

Since the 12b was toast, I figured... "Might as well"

My idea of light wheeling seems to have changed a bit. "Light" used to mean just some trails and nothing that would put a dent in the fenders. Now I think of light as anything except rolling it down a ravine sideways.

 

[bp71k5]

I took some measurements and the difference in height from the centerline of the tube to the bottom of the pumpkin appears to be 1" between my 12b and the 14b. I expected more of a difference for some reason. Does that sound right or did I pickup an oddball rear end?

 

[Yukon Jack]

While I have my 69 K20 torn apart I thought what the heck so I yanked it's 35 x 12.5 SSR's that actually measure closer to 34.5" and put them on my 70 K5. The 70 K5 is running 3/4 ton axles (14FF out back) with 4" front springs and a 2" block out back with modified spring perches out back to level the K5.

Here are a few pics of the K5.

Here's a pic showing the rear axle lift combo

Just turning in a parking lot I'm having rubbing with the front tires and hitting a bump will cause the rear passenger side tire to rub slightly on my oh so ugly PO fender flares.

I'm actually surprised the front tires will rub just turning on flat ground as these same tires on my 69 K20 when it had a 4" lift never rubbed when driving on road.

These slightly shorter than 35" tires would eat some metal for sure if taken off road!

 

[bp71k5]

Thanks for those pics. They do look pretty tight especially in the front. I'm curious how much clearance you have under the rear end with those tires?

I've got a 6" lift on the back and I can gain another inch in the front with zero-rates if needed, but I still like the look of the 33's. If the amount of clearance is only 1 inch different, maybe I can shave some material off the bottom of the pumpkin and stick with the 33's.

 

[Big Blzn]

Here are some wheeling pics of my '72 with 35" BFG AT's. They only rubbed on several of the harder pounding I did but only rubbed and didn't damage any sheet metal. The most rubbing occured on the rear wheel well in the front bottom corner. Rubbed some paint but that is it and I pushed the blazer harder than I wanted to several times when it rubbed. Most of the rubbing was a quick rub and not a long 5 second crunching noise. I have a 3" or so lift with zero rates too. Here are some pics with the tires stuffed. Only had minor rubbing in the front.




The bottom pic did rub a bit but no damage to metal. That was a bouncy focking hill climb too with heavy throttle.
Hope this helps. I would diffenately go with 35" meats.
Hoby

 

[Peteasauras]

Depending on your wheels you may be able to run the 15" with the 14FF. I have 15 steel procomps and shaved the caliper less than an 1/8. I also shaved the bottom of the 14 bolt about 3/4 for extra clearance.

 

[AJs72K5]

What size tires are you running?

Edit: I dug a bit and it looks like you have the equivalent of 35's. They look pretty good and don't look like they'd rub that bad. What size lift is on there?

I'm running 35s with 16" rims on 6" of lift. With that lift / tire combo, I'd have to really flex it out to rub anywhere.

 

[y5mgisi]

Why not just get 15" 8 lug wheels?

 

[bp71k5]

Why not just get 15" 8 lug wheels?

I could still do that. The selection is kinda slim and I thought it'd be nice to have some nicer wheels since I'd have to switch anyway. I found a set of used 16's that are in decent shape and would just need new tires.

 

[Yukon Jack]

Hopefully better late than never. You asked about ground clearance with the 35" tires and the 14 bolt and I finally remembered to get you pics. These Super Swamper SSR's measure more like 34.5".

The first is the 14 bolt ff axle

And this is the Dana 44

 

[bp71k5]

Thanks, everything helps. I'm now actively looking for a set of 35's. I was able to move the rear axle back and it looks like things will clear ok as long as it doesn't get too twisted up.