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14bolt question

clarkjw24

clarkjw24

1/2 ton status
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I've got an open carrier 14bolt with 3.??s in it. My question is what are my options. I want to go ahead and install 5.13s but I'm not going to be able to buy a locker yet. Can I just install the 5.13s and lincoln lock it? Or will I need a different carrier for these gears? /forums/images/graemlins/thinking.gif
 
You can get "thick" gears for the 14bff that will allow you to run 5.13's in a 3.__ carrier. I am running 4.56 thick gears in a 3.73 carrier.

I would lincoln lock it and then if you decide to later you can install a Detroit. I have my 14bff welded and it does fine for me. I drive it on the street alot and you will get used to the welded characteristics. Your tires will wear very quickly if you do alot of around town driving though. Just and FYI.

Harley
 
So I can weld up this carrier and when I get a detroit I'll do away with the welded carrier and the thick gears will work with the detroit right? The detroit becomes the new carrier right? I'm not very bright. /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif
 
In most cases yes you are right. But with the 14bff you don't have to weld the spider gears to the carrier, only to the other spider gears. You don't weld them to the carrier so therefore you dont ruin the carrier.

The 14bff Detroit does not replace the carrier, only the spider gears. So you remove the welded spider gears and replace them with the detroit in the stock carrier.

In most differentials the Detroit does replace the carrier like you are thinking, but just not in the 14bff. It is a special case.

Yes the detroit will work with the thick gears.
 
No the detroit is a drop in locker for the 14B. I believe if you weld it up you will probably need a new carrier for the detroit unless you just weld the spiders to the center pins and not to the carrier itself.
 
Yes, you can weld it up and not hurt the carrier. I welded my spiders to each other, spiders to the cross pin, and to the side gears, then welded it inot a big blob of crap and then installed it into the carrier. I was HARD on it for well over a year w/ plenty of street miles and never broke it.
 
Thanks Hoss. I think its safe to order my gears now. I just didn't want to order them and tie up money in the rest of the disk brakes and end up having to save and wait on the detroit. I like to gather all my parts and do one install. One other question after in do all of this how hard is it to install the detroit later?
 
From what I understand installing the Detroit afterward isn't to hard. You don't have to have the gears resetup like you would with any other differential. The 14bff is a unique beast in that fact. I know several people that said it wasn't to hard and they did it in there driveway with no problems. 2-3 hour install if I remember correctly

Harley
 
A detroit is quicker to do than a welded locker. I installed mine in a little over an hour. All it looks like is a really big and beefy lockright already put together. The clamshell design of the 14FF allows a simple install with no real adjustment tools needed if you do it correcly (mark the bearing collars)

They also make gear shims for thin gears to space them out to thick gears (I would rather pony up for the thick gears myself as drivetrain is a bad place to cut cost corners)
 
you can find stock 5.13 1 ton axles in the 47-72 corp h072 axles, but the ratio was only in the dual rear wheel R05 conversion trucks, chassis cabs, stake beds, etc,, all of them are 40" spring pad centers, the center sections swap just like ford 9" axles, they made stock 4.10 and 4.57 ratios too 47-72 years 3/4 ton and 1 ton, anything that wasnt dana 60 back then was an eaton h052 or h072 depending on if was 3/4 or 1 ton and supposedly parts form eatons will work in 14 bolt FF's i dont remember which parts though



good lcuk
 
Don't weld your spiders that way. Weld them into one big ball. Like a minispool. That type of weld will probably fail over time. It will wear over time and eventually fail. I know. I have mine welded that way currently and I am switching to the welded ball. Much stronger and just as easy.

Harley
 
I'll expound on my setup some more. Mine were welded like that about 2 years ago. I have only done street driving and some mild to moderate trail on it.

The type of weld job in the article will never be rigid. It will have some slop in it because of the small gaps. With the axle going forward, back, turning, etc the spiders will go back and forth too. It will cause the gears to hit the next gear and put alot of pressure on it as it tries to pass over the weld. This will cause the welds to wear on each other. This causes more metal shavings in the diff that would not normally be there. It also causes alot of pressure on the teeth and stress cracks can occur in the spiders. As time goes on it will get sloppier and sloppier and wear more. I only run 35" tires that are 12.5" wide. It will cause more pressure on the spiders if you run bigger wider tires. I also keep the rear tires aired up to 40 PSI so they slip easier on pavement and cause less stress and strain on the weld and make it act better on the street.

Right now I have 1/8 turn back or forht in my axle before the welds contact each other and lock the diff. In the beginning it was alot tighter then it is now. I am currently looking for a carrier to use to weld my spiders solidly so I will have a stronger diff I can worry less about.

Harley
 
[ QUOTE ]
Don't weld your spiders that way. Weld them into one big ball. Like a minispool. That type of weld will probably fail over time. It will wear over time and eventually fail. I know. I have mine welded that way currently and I am switching to the welded ball. Much stronger and just as easy.

[/ QUOTE ]
Any pics or instructions on this method?
 
there is alot of info on it around. I am not sure where though. Maybe in the tech article forum or search under KidJethro's posts. He is the master of the 14bff minispool weld job.

Harley
 
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