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14bolt swap - turning radius

Chevy305

Chevy305

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I completed the 14bolt swap back in the fall, but haven't really driven my truck until now. I have noticed that my turning radius has increased significantly. Its to the point where I can't make a 90 degrees parking spot without having to backup. Is this normal, have other people noticed this?

I know that the 14bolt is wider than the 10bolt but I never expected it to effect me this much.
 
Its from moving the rear WMS outwards making it loose turning radius. One of the reasons that the factory 10 bolt rear is noticeably shorter than the front axle.
 
I didn't do any actual measuring, but I didn't notice any difference. My 14 bolt SF is considerably wider than my 10 bolt was. I wish I had done before and after comparisons.
 
I would say something else has changed, as there should not be any noticable difference in turning radius with the slightly wider rear axle. The low speed turning radius was not the reason the rear axle was narrower, but rather higher speed dynamic handling manuevers (i.e. changing lanes on the highway).
 
6.2Blazer said:
I would say something else has changed, as there should not be any noticable difference in turning radius with the slightly wider rear axle. The low speed turning radius was not the reason the rear axle was narrower, but rather higher speed dynamic handling manuevers (i.e. changing lanes on the highway).
Click to expand...
Your right about that but im sure it was "engineered" like that for several reasons :wink1:
 
Did you perhaps install a VAN 14ff? The van 14ff will reduce your turning radius (can't make as tight of a turn) because it is 3" wider than a standard 14ff.
 
Looking back at your build thread it looks like you put a lock right locker in the rear end. Someone please correct me if I am wrong but isn't that a positive locker similar to a Detroit? If that is the case I would just about put money on the locker being the culprit on your increased turning radius. When it is locked up I would guess the turning radius would be decreased significantly.

Someone please correct me if I am wrong but that locker should only be locked when under power. if that is the case If you are under power when making a turn then your turning radius would go to hell. If you were off the power (coasting) I bet your turning radius would go back to normal (if the locker is working properly).

Cheers,

Rufus
 
C305,

There must be something else you aren't telling us. I ran a 14BFF with 1.5" spacer on either side (and a Detroit) and could pull super tight U-turns with it....

Mostly I attribute the tighter turning to the ORD Highsteer arms improved geometry over stock. The only time I ever had huge turning radius was when I moved the front axle forward an inch and didn't cut down the (stock, push-pull type) draglink to compensate.... The steering was horribly wide in both directions IIRC.



:usaflag:
 
rufusbooth said:
Looking back at your build thread it looks like you put a lock right locker in the rear end. Someone please correct me if I am wrong but isn't that a positive locker similar to a Detroit? If that is the case I would just about put money on the locker being the culprit on your increased turning radius. When it is locked up I would guess the turning radius would be decreased significantly.

Someone please correct me if I am wrong but that locker should only be locked when under power. if that is the case If you are under power when making a turn then your turning radius would go to hell. If you were off the power (coasting) I bet your turning radius would go back to normal (if the locker is working properly).

Cheers,

Rufus
Click to expand...

I ran a lock right in my 10bolt too. Under power or not the locker's natural state is locked. When turning the locker will rachet until straightened out. When power is applied while turning the locker wants to lock back up which can cause either bucking or wheel chirping if enough power is applied.

When I am pulling into a parking spot this is a slow 5mph coast while clutched in and wheel all the way against the lock.

Greg72 said:
C305,

There must be something else you aren't telling us. I ran a 14BFF with 1.5" spacer on either side (and a Detroit) and could pull super tight U-turns with it....

Mostly I attribute the tighter turning to the ORD Highsteer arms improved geometry over stock. The only time I ever had huge turning radius was when I moved the front axle forward an inch and didn't cut down the (stock, push-pull type) draglink to compensate.... The steering was horribly wide in both directions IIRC.



:usaflag:
Click to expand...

The only other mod I have done since the truck has been down was the weld in steering box brace. My frame wasn't too bad either. I am still using the factory steering setup otherwise. I have no plans to upgrade to x-over either.
 
Chevy305 said:
I ran a lock right in my 10bolt too. Under power or not the locker's natural state is locked. When turning the locker will rachet until straightened out. When power is applied while turning the locker wants to lock back up which can cause either bucking or wheel chirping if enough power is applied.

When I am pulling into a parking spot this is a slow 5mph coast while clutched in and wheel all the way against the lock.



The only other mod I have done since the truck has been down was the weld in steering box brace. My frame wasn't too bad either. I am still using the factory steering setup otherwise. I have no plans to upgrade to x-over either.
Click to expand...


Does it turn equally bad in both directions? Have you taken it to an open parking lot to measure a "hard left" vs "hard right" turning radius?? :dunno:


:usaflag:
 
Greg72 said:
Does it turn equally bad in both directions? Have you taken it to an open parking lot to measure a "hard left" vs "hard right" turning radius?? :dunno:


:usaflag:
Click to expand...

I will try that and get back to you. ;)
 
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