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14FF disc brake swap, passenger side outer brake pad is pretty tight against the rotor.

handloader90

handloader90

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Pads and rotors are brand new, caliper and hub are used.

Outer pad is really really snug on the rotor... I checked the caliper vs. another one I had to make sure it wasn't tweaked and the openings where the pads sit are the same width in both so I didn't bend anything, hub is staked tight to the hub, hub seated as far onto the spindle as it will go and a spindle nut securing the hub to the spindle with just a **** hair of play, like 1mm of play just cause I didn't want to crank it down. I also rotated the rotor to see if maybe it was warped in that spot... same results all the way around the rotor.

Any suggestions? The inner brake pad has plenty of room, is this something hat will even out when I get the lines hooked up and actually use the brakes?
 
Idk what the hell it could be, driver side hub with rotor, caliper and pads installed spins freely.

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20161029_213208.jpg

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Both hubs are seated equally.

That small part of bare metal on the spindle that's showing is just where I taped off for paint, thought the hubs would've have seated further due to the steps in the spindle when painting.

Top pic is the driver side, bottom pic is the passenger side (troubled side).

Possibly too much material on that outer pad? I don't have a caliper so I haven't aken things apart yet for measurement.

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Confirm your races are fully seated. crank down on that spindle nut to 50 ft lbs. maybe more?
 
obijuank5 said:
Confirm your races are fully seated. crank down on that spindle nut to 50 ft lbs. maybe more?
Click to expand...

I double checked the races before seating the seal, they were both seated all the way down on that step inside of the hub.

I guess I'll be pulling everything tomorrow to verify again.
 
Lay that pad and the other side on a flat table and check with a level

My guess is the bracket needs shimmed out .050"
 
Before you take anything apart, measure from the rotor side of the bracket to the outside of the rotor on both sides. If that looks good, try removing just the outside pad and see if the caliper is free to slide back and forth on the mounting bolts.
If you have slop on the inside pad, the whole caliper assembly should be able to slide out some.
Since the piston is only on the inside, the outside pad is pressed against the rotor by the inside pad pressing on the rotor and shoving the assembly back.
You might try tapping on the assembly with a hammer gently to see if you can drive it out some. There may be a burr on one of the mounting bolts.

BTW, you may have other problems when you go to hook everything up. I think I see dirt in the end of the bleeder. If its mud from mudholes, it will probably poke out and be fine.
But, in this part of the country, its liable to be a dirt dauber's nest, and that glue they use is tough. You might have to replace the bleeder. I would do that before doing much more.
If it were to wring off, it would be a lot easier to get out now, then when every thing is put together.
In fact, it might be a good idea to loosen both of them just to check and make sure they are not frozen.
 
I had this problem and ended up shimming the bracket. I asked diy4x if the bracket might be bad and he told me some of the axles are off a little, not his exact words.
 
If one pad is too tight and one pad is too loose, doesn't that indicate a hung-up caliper? It should freely slide back and forth until both sides are balanced (or it reaches the end of the pin). :dunno:
 
It looks to me like you have one of three possibilities.

There is a race out there that fits fine and when fully seated is a little thicker than it should be which in effect moves the rotor and hub outward. Like Fordum suggested, compare one side to the other to determine if the hub is as far in as it needs to be.

Another possibility is the flange isn't quite where it needs to be. The factory drum brakes have a bit more tolerance than what is possible with the disc brake conversions. Run into this a few times. The flange on my old blazer axle was visibly crooked and never made any difference to the drum brakes but caused uneven wear on the disc brake pads.

Another possibility is we bent one poorly. We check as many as we can but sometimes one will slip through. Feel free to call me Monday and i'll help you figure it out or just swap you brackets.
 
Last night I popped the hub seal on the passenger side out, pulled the inner bearing and race and the step that it sits on was kinda deformed from me beating the race out early (put the inner bearing and race in upside down) so I beat it back into shape and smoothed everything over with a stone in my dremel, the rotor moves freely now but binds up in some areas, not bad but noticable, I don't think the rotor is completely staked to the hub and is throwing things off a little in those areas, unbalanced if you will.

I drove the studs with a punch and my sledge and I'm guessing a few didn't seat completely.

I need longer wheel studs so all this stuff is getting taken apart regardless.

Also, this hub was in bad shape anyways, the inside looks corroded very badly and I'm gonna assume for whatever reason a lot of tolerances in the hub are out of whack.

The inner race in that hub spins freely when fully seated?! I have my eye on a hub on eBay.

Both brake flanges are straight and I don't think the brackets are the problem.
 
If the race spins in the hub when seated, then you have a bad or wrong race or else the hub is toast. DO Not run it that way. I know some tricks to tighten one up long enough to get home, but once the race spins in the seat, you are going to need a new hub.

Of course, the seat could be welded and turned back to specs, but it would cost much more than a new hub.
 
Yea, hub is toast. There's a whole bunch of other stuff wrong with that hub too.

I just put an ad up in the WTB section and I've een actively scanning eBay.
 
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