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14ff pinion HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

BamBamblazer

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Ok i am trying to put new gears in my 14 ff and i cant get the pinion to seat in the support. I have it in the support and started tightening it down and all was well. So i keep going and as i get to about an 1/8th of an inch from both bearings getting to the races it just stops and i cant turn it no more. It was going tight all the way till that point then it just got to where i cant moove it with an 12" breaker bar, but it still has play in it. Anyone had this problem. This is my first set of gears and i'm lost. /forums/images/graemlins/dunno.gif /forums/images/graemlins/ears.gif
 
a 12" breaker bar /forums/images/graemlins/histerical.gif sorry it takes about 300-400 lbft of torque to crush the crush sleeve. I used a 24" 1" drive breaker with a 3 ft piece of pipe on the end of it. I broke my 1/2" drive breaker doing mine /forums/images/graemlins/eek.gif Keep tightening until that slop is gone and keep checking the preload which IIRC is 20-30 inlbs
 
Lol yeah, I had a 3/4 drive breaker bar with 5 feet of pipe on the end. Just make sure you make very little adjustments each time and check the preload with an inch/pounds torque wrench because once it starts getting preload on it it rises quick.
 
hey guy I have a 3/4" drive set I use a 4foot bar on when I need too, if you need to borrow just let me know. I can get those backing plates from ya also. /forums/images/graemlins/waytogo.gif
 
Negative, talk to any reputable gear shop and they will recommend against that. Now if you mean to just barely start the crush then sure you can do that, but still takes a ton of work to get it to the proper preload.
 
Or for the lazy people, a 3/4 inch breaker bar and a hydraulic jack under the end. /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif
 
To each his own! The most reputable shop in San Diego, Pro Gear, recommended it, and it works well for me.
 
[ QUOTE ]
Negative, talk to any reputable gear shop and they will recommend against that. Now if you mean to just barely start the crush then sure you can do that, but still takes a ton of work to get it to the proper preload.

[/ QUOTE ]

I think he's talking about pressing on the pinion bearing. Of course you're going to press the bearing on.
 
Well the thread is about the crush sleeve, no one mentioned how to get pinion bearings on the pinion...
 
Put the assembled pinion and pinion retainer (pinion carrier) with the flange (drive yoke) in the press with the pinion gear down. Slowly press the flange on to the pinion splines crushing the spacer (crush sleeve) as you do. While doing this spin the retainer (pinion carrier) feeling for the correct preload. As you approach the correct “feel” back off the press and tighten the flange nut. If you have a lb. –in. torque wrench you can check for correct preload (25-35 lb.-in. for new bearings, or 5-15 lb.-in. for reused bearings) but most professionals just use the “feel” /forums/images/graemlins/thinking.gif method. Repeat the process until you get the correct preload. It is a lot easier to control the load your are exerting with the press than it is with a three-foot breaker bar and a cheater, and you’re working at bench level.
 
inch pounds not foot pounds. Either way you do it press or breaker bar be careful because once you over crush the crush sleeve you have to get a new one and start over /forums/images/graemlins/shame.gif
 
Preload is measured in Inch Pound or Pounds per Inch (lb.-in. as I stated) as the drag on the preload is very minimal. You are correct if you go too far, you’ll need a new crush sleeve!
 

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