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14ff swap and bearing replacement

I

ironnut

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Missoula, MT/Redmond, WA
I just came across a steal of a 14bolt. Couldn't pass it up and had a couple questions. 1st, im putting it in place of a 12bolt, do the spring plates match up? I havent had a chance to measure yet. Also, will I need to modify my driveshaft or are the pumpkins the same length. I know I need a trick ujoint to match the two. Also, i want to replace what bearings I can, what can i replace and what can i not, as far as messing with the gears and such? The brakes are all brand new some im good to go in that aspect. Thanks for the advice. /forums/images/graemlins/truck.gif
 
The spring perch width is the same as long as your 14BFF came from a 3/4 ton which would be 42" from center to center. If it's a 1 ton 14BFF than the perches are 40.5" apart and will need to be moved. The bearings on a full floating axle are easy to replace! When you get the inner and outer spindle nut out the outer bearing will slide right out! On the inner bearing, once you get the hub completely off and sitting on the front with the drum in the air, pop the old wheel seal out with a crows foot and you can pull the inner bearing right out. Replace that seal though because it is almost guaranteed to leak if it is reused and will cause funky braking issues. Remember..."pull a wheel?....replace the seal!" /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif

Along with the bearings and wheel seals I would change the diff oil, inspect the bearings and gears while the cover is off, and if all is good then install it and roll! /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
 
Rather than use a funky conversion u-joint I would grab the driveshaft from the 1-ton donor vehicle and just get it shortened. That way if you ever break a joint on the trail a replacement joint can be found easily at any parts store. If the original driveshaft isn't available then buy two of the goofy joints so you always have a spare.
 
I have an 85 k5 and did the 14 ff swap. On my model year the driveshaft required no cutting/lengthening. I did use a conversion u-joint, however as has been pointed out, these are not always available that day. I would go to a driveshaft shop and have them replace the saginaw weld yoke with a spicer 1350 series weld yoke. THe 1350 series u-jounts are easier to come by and cost a third of the conversion type.
 
Or just get a custom shaft built and be donw with it. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
7068New_drivelines-med.jpg
 
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thanks for the advice. All i need now is to find donor d44 3/4 tonn parts /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif

[/ QUOTE ] I would just try to find a matching gear ratio 3/4 D44, seems that is the cheapest route in the long run.
 
If you want to replace the bearings in the diff thats a piece of cake. Check the backlash before you take it apart. Take the carrier and pinion support to a diff shop, have them take off the old carrier bearings, put on new ones, and chance the pinion bearings and crush sleeve and seal. Dont know what theyll charge you but we dont charge anyhitng, wed just do it. Then when you out it back together, just reset the backlash to whatever it was ehnt you checked it before.
 
i wouldn't mind taking a matching D44 but 2 years ago i put new 4.10s and rebuilt the whole thing, which wasn't cheap, wich i woulda thought about just swaping it out to beggin with instead of just swapping gears. so i'd like to keep it, just swap out the neccessary parts.

I decided to just swap wheel bearings on the 14bolt, im just about done with that, just that alone, turned a 100$ axle into a 240$ axle with the new wheel bearing s, races and seals, and gear oil. pricy stuff.

I think it might have factory LS, but how do i know for sure? can't you tell by spinning the wheels when they are off the ground?
 
NO a gov loc doesnt work like that. Look at the side of the carrier, if theres something that looks like clutches in the opening, its a gov loc. If its open youll see side gears in the opening. Also around the case, where the ring gear bolts, there will be 3 spots if its a gov loc, thats the cross shaft. If theres 4 then its open.
 
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thanks for the advice. All i need now is to find donor d44 3/4 tonn parts /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif

[/ QUOTE ] I would just try to find a matching gear ratio 3/4 D44, seems that is the cheapest route in the long run.

[/ QUOTE ]


yep..on the other hand you learn alot if you put it together and make it 8 lug your self..

but if you are changing gears, you might as well find the right axel that has your gear ratio already.

What gears do you want?

ditto on the drive shaft idea, blowing a speacial u-joint on the trail would suck /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif and they are 20 bucks vs 10.00 /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif

If you have a slip yoke and no spare..your life just got even better /forums/images/graemlins/yikes.gif
 
[ QUOTE ]
i wouldn't mind taking a matching D44 but 2 years ago i put new 4.10s and rebuilt the whole thing, which wasn't cheap, wich i woulda thought about just swaping it out to beggin with instead of just swapping gears. so i'd like to keep it, just swap out the neccessary parts.

I decided to just swap wheel bearings on the 14bolt, im just about done with that, just that alone, turned a 100$ axle into a 240$ axle with the new wheel bearing s, races and seals, and gear oil. pricy stuff.

I think it might have factory LS, but how do i know for sure? can't you tell by spinning the wheels when they are off the ground?

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sounds like you already put the cover on so a visual check is a no-go..

Try go so on some gravle, or reverse up a small hill, let them get some wheel spin and have someone watch to see if one or both spin. Some times breaks may be applied to make the gov lock work too.

If you do have a gov-lock, try to determin if your 14 bolt is a high milage one, if so start looking at options or put aside money if it goes, if it does you will also need a open carrier.
 
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