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14SF to 10 bolt driveshaft adapter joint PN?

dyeager535

dyeager535

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I searched for the info, I know it must be here somewhere, I just had no luck.

Buddy had his second 10 bolt go out, finally going to install the 14SF. I know he can swap yokes, but he doesn't have the proper tools to do it "right".

Barring someone having a part number, would it be a 1330 to a 1350 joint?
 
Never seen a factory 10-bolt with a 1330 joint. Most are the 3R/S44 joints (these have internal snap rings vs. the external snap rings on the 1330) so you need the 3R to 1350 conversion joint.

Neapco 1-1153
Napa had one under p/n 447 but I think they changed the number awhile back.
 
Sweet, appreciate that. I'll add the info to my 14SF thread in case anyone else needs it.
 
So are there two 10 bolt u-joint sizes? As I recall the 10/12 bolt pinion yokes were interchangeable (no idea what u-joint they used), any chance you had a 12 bolt yoke?

Want to get this straight for anyone else that may look for it.
 
Precision U-Joint #447 is what I use when swapping in 14bff's. I have never bothered with a semi floater.

Martin
 
I think you can swap the yoke on the 14 sf also .

and I just did the 10 bolt yoke with 10 bolt front pinion seal on a 12 bolt truck rear .
 
10 bolt rears all had the 3r/s44 joint while 10 bolt fronts (actually all gm fronts) had 1310s

the 3R/s44 to 1350 conversion joint is p/n 447 like mentioned but something else to throw into the mix is that a 10 bolt pinion yoke will work on a 14bsf:D

and as far as I know, gm never used a 1330 on anything in this body style truck, it was all 1310, 1350, or the 3R/S44

edit; sweetk30 beat me to the pinion yoke swap info
 
big dan said:
10 bolt rears all had the 3r/s44 joint while 10 bolt fronts (actually all gm fronts) had 1310s

the 3R/s44 to 1350 conversion joint is p/n 447 like mentioned but something else to throw into the mix is that a 10 bolt pinion yoke will work on a 14bsf:D

and as far as I know, gm never used a 1330 on anything in this body style truck, it was all 1310, 1350, or the 3R/S44

edit; sweetk30 beat me to the pinion yoke swap info
Click to expand...

Pretty sure the later manual transmission K5's had 1350 u-joints for the rear driveshaft and 10-bolt.

Never seen a GM front from the '70's up with anything (from the factory) other than 1310s, but GM was also notorious for doing funky things during that time also.
 
big dan said:
10 bolt rears all had the 3r/s44 joint while 10 bolt fronts (actually all gm fronts) had 1310s

the 3R/s44 to 1350 conversion joint is p/n 447 like mentioned but something else to throw into the mix is that a 10 bolt pinion yoke will work on a 14bsf:D

and as far as I know, gm never used a 1330 on anything in this body style truck, it was all 1310, 1350, or the 3R/S44

edit; sweetk30 beat me to the pinion yoke swap info
Click to expand...


The only problem with swapping the yoke is a 14sf uses a crush sleeve. Use a conversion joint and change the yoke sometime when you have the diff out.
 
Unfortunately the pinion seal is leaking, so he's got to remove the yoke anyway. Since the risk exists whether he swaps yokes or not, he is going to go with using the 10B yoke. But the info gathered is still valid for anyone that does not need to replace the seal, thanks.

The 10B and 14SF apparently list a different part number for the pinion seal. Any idea why that would change? If the yoke is the same diameter, I don't see why they wouldn't have designed the housing to take the same seal.
 
I was thinking Roy was by Spokane....bummer. I'm flying up to Spokane today and could have given you my extra joint.
 
AV8TER said:
I saw one last night on somebodys web site but I can't remember where it was.
Click to expand...

I dug around and couldn't find it again. Even looked thru my history for yesterday. I must have seen something else. My bad. :dunno:
 
sweetk30 said:
say good buy to the crush sleave :whistle:
Click to expand...

Why? It's not a foregone conclusion, there is a GM-prescribed way to re-use it, I've done so multiple times without following the GM procedures (and failed once) so with a bit of luck he may be fine. I know he's probably not set up to do it the GM way, but I was thinking, checking pattern before/after would get you near the same results, no?

I appreciate the offer on the joint from Jeff BTW!
 
I suppose you could just tighten the pinion and hope you got it close. But then again, why torque head bolts, rod bolts or main caps?
 
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