blazin_blazer
1/2 ton status
thats exactly how you do it!
I've seen motors jump time w/chain and use a timing light shows you which pin is #1...if the cap and wires are moved around to correct, it will run!
had a friend, his b+ and tach notch was pointing straight back at firewall...90* out?(most are on drivers side of dizzy)i pulled up #1 spark and it was where it should be, but wrong.
i talked him into letting me pull the dizzy so pulled#1 up again..pulled dizzy and moved the thing 2-3 teeth on the cam so rotor pointing at #1
put #1 was first prong after b+/tach (which is now at 3oclock instead of 12 oclock,like it was)took #1 and wired it correctly starting from there w/plug wires..tuned it by ear no timing light w/me...we go for a ride..he swears it felt like a new hotrod motor, against how it was running,
it will run 180 out if wired accordingly,,if you move the wires you can make it run,..whereever you drop the dizzy just about, but just not the same for some weird reason as wired right
I've seen motors jump time w/chain and use a timing light shows you which pin is #1...if the cap and wires are moved around to correct, it will run!
had a friend, his b+ and tach notch was pointing straight back at firewall...90* out?(most are on drivers side of dizzy)i pulled up #1 spark and it was where it should be, but wrong.
i talked him into letting me pull the dizzy so pulled#1 up again..pulled dizzy and moved the thing 2-3 teeth on the cam so rotor pointing at #1
put #1 was first prong after b+/tach (which is now at 3oclock instead of 12 oclock,like it was)took #1 and wired it correctly starting from there w/plug wires..tuned it by ear no timing light w/me...we go for a ride..he swears it felt like a new hotrod motor, against how it was running,
it will run 180 out if wired accordingly,,if you move the wires you can make it run,..whereever you drop the dizzy just about, but just not the same for some weird reason as wired right
