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CK5
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Not use to this format. Let’s add the description here also.
Drove it home last night, in pouring rain, LA freeways, 75 miles, and cruised around 55
She’s rough (for CA) but I’ll properly introduce y’all when it stops raining. I’m 3rd owner, 2nd owner replaced a bunch of drivability stuff, seat covers, headliner and kept for a year. He said it was stored 25 years by previous owner’s family. Must have been outside still. For now I’d like to hear your thoughts on:
Good weatherstripping. I like the stuff I put on my C10 but can’t find the company it came from.
Engine timing for a straight 6.
Decent vac gauge recommendation so I can time and set idle best.
Source for suspension bushing etc. Steering is tight and straight, brakes are all drum but good, shocks feel good…….but she’s loose in the bush department lol
I will need 1 floor patch panel near passenger foot/A pillar. Floor only. The tailgate area is very promising but the tailgate corners are already rusted. I looked real quick for some kind of contoured patches but didn’t find. That might need to be made from scratch
Congrats.
Check Global West for front end update. They had a mod back 30+ years ago, maybe 40 I wasn't even married.
Disc brake conversion might available. No donnor that I know of.
Other wise Mustang II style conversion. Get rack and pinion with coil spring between parallel a arms.
Check Global West for front end update. They had a mod back 30+ years ago, maybe 40 I wasn't even married.
Disc brake conversion might available. No donnor that I know of.
Other wise Mustang II style conversion. Get rack and pinion with coil spring between parallel a arms.
Dump
2nd Dump
3rd dump
4th Dump
So I wanna get rid of the bondo, luckily it’s just a dent and not cancer.
Rust holes are the floor picture, hood, tailgate, and I can’t believe I didn’t notice the window frame till today. That one sucks. I just want to stop the rust. I could cut the tailgate and leave holes, don’t care, just don’t need it spreading.
The A Pilar where the floor rust is… is dry, even with the rain. Only spot inside that’s wet is under the spare tire. No rust thankfully.
Power steering AND 20 turns lock/lock doesn’t make sense. Gezzz
I was told the alternator isn’t charging or there is a draw. Dash light doesn’t stay on. It’s got a new regulator thing but he said it might be bad. Have no idea what that all is. Probably the massive oil leak all over the alt haha
I’ve got $1000 budget till Jan2025. The budget for this ran low once I started finishing my backyard etc. Fixer upper was my budget and OMG I DIDNT WANT ANOTHER PROJECT BUT STILL SOMEHOW ENDED UP WITH ONE. Dammit
Small/smart money and free fixes are the course of action right now. If business goes belly up, it’s the first thing sold and I can’t have stupid money into. Not smart right now. The Blazer and ATV are still for sale. I also reached out to the guy that bought my ‘68 C10. Still has it, told him to update us
Rust holes are the floor picture, hood, tailgate, and I can’t believe I didn’t notice the window frame till today. That one sucks. I just want to stop the rust. I could cut the tailgate and leave holes, don’t care, just don’t need it spreading.
The A Pilar where the floor rust is… is dry, even with the rain. Only spot inside that’s wet is under the spare tire. No rust thankfully.
Power steering AND 20 turns lock/lock doesn’t make sense. Gezzz
I was told the alternator isn’t charging or there is a draw. Dash light doesn’t stay on. It’s got a new regulator thing but he said it might be bad. Have no idea what that all is. Probably the massive oil leak all over the alt haha
I’ve got $1000 budget till Jan2025. The budget for this ran low once I started finishing my backyard etc. Fixer upper was my budget and OMG I DIDNT WANT ANOTHER PROJECT BUT STILL SOMEHOW ENDED UP WITH ONE. Dammit
Small/smart money and free fixes are the course of action right now. If business goes belly up, it’s the first thing sold and I can’t have stupid money into. Not smart right now. The Blazer and ATV are still for sale. I also reached out to the guy that bought my ‘68 C10. Still has it, told him to update us
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PO changed out:
Spark plugs and wires
Fuel pump
Distributor
Carburetor
Radiator (rebuilt original)
Hoses
Wheel cylinder
Master cylinder
4 ball joints
Fuel system clean with new hoses
Fuel tank was cleaned by a shop
Tires
headliner and seats (seats were just covered)
Spark plugs and wires
Fuel pump
Distributor
Carburetor
Radiator (rebuilt original)
Hoses
Wheel cylinder
Master cylinder
4 ball joints
Fuel system clean with new hoses
Fuel tank was cleaned by a shop
Tires
headliner and seats (seats were just covered)
I might have a nicer grill. Wtf is on the front bumper ?? Rear quater gonna need some attention. LOL I love the little red and white car kit emissions add on sticker. I put so many of those on in late 70's
Considering replacing the grill or swapping things to a ‘65 front end. Haven’t given it much thought yet. And yeah, dunno what’s up with that bumper add-on. Needs to go badly. 
Started to tackle the shitty battery post wiring. Also was warned it’s either not charging because the regulator is bad or there’s a draw. Battery at 7.5v today. PO replaced regulator (pictured). I checked the battery cables and didn’t find a draw. BUT I did find what looks like a draw in the wiring going to this thing. (Other picture, located below regulator) The dirty red wire far left showed continuity. Might have been charge wire. It looks to share stuff that’s all touching metal. All goofy looking to me lol
I left it off a good battery I threw in and car has nothing working. Starter, dash lights, key forward, all dead. I’d like to scrap this all and go internal regulated ALT but trying to save that money for now and make this work. I think it’s just wired bad. Any advice? I’m off to find wiring diagrams 
I left it off a good battery I threw in and car has nothing working. Starter, dash lights, key forward, all dead. I’d like to scrap this all and go internal regulated ALT but trying to save that money for now and make this work. I think it’s just wired bad. Any advice? I’m off to find wiring diagrams
the second pic is the horn relay. it's is wired battery hot, should be a fusible link feeding the horn relay. Battery feed the Horn relay, Horn relay feed Batt+ on alt, and #3 terminal on regulator.
Testing the regulator…
Regulator may need adjusting, remove cover and adjust w a screw. Should be a video out there for that as well. Just because its new, doesn’t mean its adjusted correctly.
Regulator may need adjusting, remove cover and adjust w a screw. Should be a video out there for that as well. Just because its new, doesn’t mean its adjusted correctly.
is pretty easy to do I did my 66 chevelle. Adjust the spring tension on cut in and cut out coils with a volt meter, when you get it charging.
The original reg was/is adjustable, some of the new repop regs are not.
The original reg was/is adjustable, some of the new repop regs are not.
Haha I just watched that Zim. Hope to get back on this tomorrow night. I don’t see any way power is getting to the battery other than that red wire coming off that horn relay. With it having continuity to ground, it’s got a problem somewhere. In the engine bay picture from earlier, there is a red ground wire to the regulator body. In the background there are 2 yellow wires on the firewall. I pulled them off because “janky” and it runs to a push button ignition crudely drilled into the dash. It’s not used so I’d rather it all not be there.
You know…wiring
With the draw fixed, Blazer’s old AGM good battery installed, and some shotty wires removed…I’ll feel better about turning that key away from home.
Anyone have a shop manual they wanna sell?
You know…wiring
With the draw fixed, Blazer’s old AGM good battery installed, and some shotty wires removed…I’ll feel better about turning that key away from home.
Anyone have a shop manual they wanna sell?
I have a 64 Corvette manual…just consider that most things that use a body ground, have a ground wire added because of the fiberglass body, otherwise they should be very similar in layout.
Printed! Thanks!
The horn relay might be welded closed that would ground through the horn if the horn is any good.
I don't think the heavy red wire from relay to to reg is supposed to go to ground it should be to terminal #3
I don't think the heavy red wire from relay to to reg is supposed to go to ground it should be to terminal #3
So I pulled the horn relay off the core support. Also pulled the horn plug off. Still found some kind of continuity. Weird, might be a bad wire somewhere. I am finding more janky wires. 
