1966 Chevy c20 327 Motor Build?

[alexjangard]

Hey all, I got a 1966 c20 with the 327, 3spd auto temp gauge isn't working (replaced thermostat, burped radiator, sending unit and wire are reading that they're working, and I'm down to a fuse or gauge...thoughts on that?)

The other issue I'm having is on the 4 barrel rochester carb I was leaking fuel out of the front of the (I believe it's called the fuel inlet, yes?) So I replaced that piece, new crush washer, but recently started a tiny drip and little bubbling out of it.

This got me thinking... if I wanted to invest in a partial rebuild i.e. intake manifold, valve covers, and carb, what would you guys do? I have the oil filler tube coming up from current intake, and have the original points on it still. Open to ideas.

 

[Bent77]

Well first question is are you willing to go away from stock and move on to other things? Second would be, do you have a budget in mind?\
What are you mechanically able to achieve?

Sky is the limit if you are interested in going there

 

[mrk5]

You can get an Edelbrock intake that allows for the oil fill tube. I would replace the distributor with a newer electronic style. If you want it to look kinda factory, you can get something like an MSD. If you don't care about appearances, HEI would be the easy distributor upgrade. You can also get rebuilt 4gc carbs or rebuild yours if you are up to it.

I also have a 66 C20 with a 327. First thing I did was replace the points distributor with an MSD. https://ck5.com/forums/threads/1966-chevy-c20.329501/

 

[diesel4me]

They sell fuel inlet repair kits for Q-jets in a few different styles..
One is just a self tapping slightly oversized thread version of the original inlet,the other uses two o-rings that expand and seal against the threads..
First you might try drying it off where it leaks and apply some Permatex Indian Head Gasket Shellac around the area where the inlet meets the crush washer,and let it cure a day,once that stuff hardens gas wont affect it..I saved a Carter AFB that had a stripped inlet threads that way..

You can test the temp gauge by turning on the ignition and grounding the wire to the sending unit after unplugging it ,the gauge will peg all the way to "hot" if the gauge & wiring is intact..
(Don't leave it grounded for long as it may damage the gauge)..

I'd use a stock HEI with a vacuum advance,they were very reliable--but if none exist in your area,an aftermarket one that has vacuum advance will work too--best to buy a spare cap & rotor if it uses one that only fits that particular brand as you may not find any if you need one "on the road" somewhere..

 

[mrk5]

It's probably a Rochester 4gc not a qjet. It's basically 2 of the 2gc two barrel carbs back to back. https://carbkitsource.com/tech/Roch...ter 4-Jet carburetor,trucks into the mid 60's.

Come to think of it, the 4gc may be a problem with swapping on an aftermarket intake. The 4gc uses a smaller bolt pattern than the standard square bore stuff.

 

[diesel4me]

Ben awhile since I had a 4GC,but I think they had the 4 barrels all the same size (or almost so),and had a square bore base bolt pattern,unlike the Q-jets "spread bore" design...but that's what they make carb adapters for.....I liked the 4GC carbs,they seemed to give more low end torque..

 

[mrk5]

The 4gc carb on mine seems to run pretty good. I like the manual choke better than any electric choke I've owned so I want to keep it for that reason. I did find an adapter on Speedway Motors, but I haven't swapped the intake on mine.