CK5
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1968 Steven's flat bottom boat. My 2 build threads smashed together.

Cool boat Wade, my father used to have a South Wind tunnel dragster Casale V drive with a TH400 and a big block in it. That thing was fast! Way faster top speed than our jet boats were, even the 572 jet boat.

This one looks nice! I look forward to seeing it out on the water again....
 
I'm excited for a video of it shifting gears on the water. I've never heard of another boat having a transmission before yours. Just direct drive.
It is quite common on these boats now. When this was originally built, it was unheard of. My 72 Miller had a velvet drive after I installed it, so it at least had forward, neutral and reverse. The glide takes care of this issue and gives it low gear for the cool factor. No torque converter also. The RPMs spin up pretty quick, with not having to spin that weight.
 
The low pro rack is done. Works perfect. I can still move it into the other garage with the forklift if needed.

Kurf cut every 6 inches to match the slight hull curve.
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Tapered the front block to match the hull.
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A backside shot, just because.PXL_20221129_211119687.jpg
This is why the original engine is going back in.PXL_20221129_211111023.jpg

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Man, I think I speak for most here to say how awesome it is to finally see you working on your own stuff.

Keep at it. Lakes will be calling when it warms up!
 
We can get you some other type of NOS if you want.... :thumb:

The only problem I see is the boat will only go straight.... ;)
 
Man, I think I speak for most here to say how awesome it is to finally see you working on your own stuff.

Keep at it. Lakes will be calling when it warms up!
Was supposed to be this year. But life happens.

I just put bids together for 2 new food truck builds.
 
I was looking at this TXL wire. I have heard good things about it in the past. I just do not need 100 feet of each color. They have other, higher temp stuff also. But I do not need that on an exposed harness. No real heat issues. Just more durable. Because electrical issues on a lake suck.

I know is this is from a long time ago, but I didn't see if the wiring got done or not. Another option besides color coding is to label all of the wires. A small printer that prints on heat shrink tubing is not super expensive and can usually also print regular labels. It's actually very common in aircraft for all of the wires to be white, but labeled. A well-equipped harness house can print on the wire jacket, which is much nicer (especially when the printing repeats every so many feet), but I've built stuff up for actual flight duty using the heat shrink labels on both ends of the wires.
 
It depends on the capability you need and the sizes of tubing you'll want to print on. You can get cheap little ones like this: https://www.amazon.com/LABELWORKS-LW-PX300-Industrial-Label-Maker/dp/B08JQMFZ6F/ (and probably cheaper?), but it's a lot less work to use one that connects to a PC. Then you can type up all the labels ahead of time and the printer prints and cuts them all automatically. Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08JQQ3147/?th=1

I have this one at work: https://www.amazon.com/Epson-LABELWORKSBonus-Bundle-Industrial-Accessories/dp/B09PNTY3FR. It's really handy when you build the same thing a 2nd or 3rd time and can just pull up a file with all the labels that were used before. Obviously typing them all onto a built-in keypad is the most work.
 
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