CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.
Relevant threads:
https://ck5.com/forums/threads/educate-me-on-the-th400.342191/#post-4139181
https://ck5.com/forums/threads/removing-dried-duct-tape.342195/#post-4139225
https://ck5.com/forums/threads/help-identifying-parts.342190/#post-4139142
https://ck5.com/forums/threads/vintage-air.342185/#post-4139250
For simplicity in searching I kept this as a C10 instead of CST 10. And since it’s impossible to join this forum 67-72 I will posts a quick thread on what CST/10 means/is.
I have tried for at least 2 years to join that forum and never get passed “your request is in moderator que”
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=442348
https://ck5.com/forums/threads/educate-me-on-the-th400.342191/#post-4139181
https://ck5.com/forums/threads/removing-dried-duct-tape.342195/#post-4139225
https://ck5.com/forums/threads/help-identifying-parts.342190/#post-4139142
https://ck5.com/forums/threads/vintage-air.342185/#post-4139250
For simplicity in searching I kept this as a C10 instead of CST 10. And since it’s impossible to join this forum 67-72 I will posts a quick thread on what CST/10 means/is.
I have tried for at least 2 years to join that forum and never get passed “your request is in moderator que”
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=442348
Last edited:
Yesterday I went through the boxes of stuff and tossed some but decided to hang onto most of it, just in case.
Took a wire-wheel and brush to everything I could get to on the frame and A arms, to clean it up, then put one coat of rustoleum high performance enamel.
Most if not all the steering will be replaced so I was not too concerned with covering the zirc fittings, but I did clean them off before the paint dried.
Thankfully the previous owner already has all the bed bolts removed. I thought the frame was crooked because how the bed fit. So I text her to make sure there was no frame damages, which she confirmed. So, I got underneath the truck and noticed the bolts were gone, as the bed still has stuff in it, I couldn’t tell looking in the bed. Once the bed was cleaned out I could lift it up. But cannot remove myself, may need some help there
Took a wire-wheel and brush to everything I could get to on the frame and A arms, to clean it up, then put one coat of rustoleum high performance enamel.
Most if not all the steering will be replaced so I was not too concerned with covering the zirc fittings, but I did clean them off before the paint dried.
Thankfully the previous owner already has all the bed bolts removed. I thought the frame was crooked because how the bed fit. So I text her to make sure there was no frame damages, which she confirmed. So, I got underneath the truck and noticed the bolts were gone, as the bed still has stuff in it, I couldn’t tell looking in the bed. Once the bed was cleaned out I could lift it up. But cannot remove myself, may need some help there
Last edited:
Some of the boxes, gauges, trim, hood hinges and original exhaust manifold.
What is the best method the get the bed off? Just lifting it or? Also how can it stored safely on the side of my house? While I work on the rear part of the frame?
@Bent77 not bad at all. No rust on any bed corner.
These tailgates don’t seem to come out the same as the squares. It seems they’re bolted in.
I saw guys use an engine hoist, lift the bed then push the truck out from the bed back into the garage. Then I’m stuck with the bed. I don’t have room to store it in garage, it will have to migrate to the backyard.
These tailgates don’t seem to come out the same as the squares. It seems they’re bolted in.
I saw guys use an engine hoist, lift the bed then push the truck out from the bed back into the garage. Then I’m stuck with the bed. I don’t have room to store it in garage, it will have to migrate to the backyard.
That's all cool but when is the blown big block going in?
Yes, you have to unbolt one of the tailgate hinge pivots. Then, with the tailgate open, lift that side up until you can separate the pivot from the tailgate. Then you will be able to swing that end out and pull the gate off of the opposite side.
I have used an engine hoist to remove the bed, but you need the tailgate off. Then I used two 2x4 boards together to make a beam to go under the bed rails. This is the lifting point, but you have to play with it to find the balance point. Once lifted, roll the truck out. Getting the height of the rigging right keeps the lift capability up without running into the hoist boom too quickly.
It isn't a quick, graceful process necessarily, but it can be done. Help from friends is faster.
And I haven't kept exhaust manifolds on my trucks, but I kept the manifolds stashed away, even though my trucks aren't rare or factory original. That's your call, of course.
I have used an engine hoist to remove the bed, but you need the tailgate off. Then I used two 2x4 boards together to make a beam to go under the bed rails. This is the lifting point, but you have to play with it to find the balance point. Once lifted, roll the truck out. Getting the height of the rigging right keeps the lift capability up without running into the hoist boom too quickly.
It isn't a quick, graceful process necessarily, but it can be done. Help from friends is faster.
And I haven't kept exhaust manifolds on my trucks, but I kept the manifolds stashed away, even though my trucks aren't rare or factory original. That's your call, of course.
I know the truck was lowered, it appears the front coils were cut but I’m not sure about the rear.
How can I know what drop this truck has? I’m trying to order new front and rear shocks.
Thanks
How can I know what drop this truck has? I’m trying to order new front and rear shocks.
Thanks
Frankly, if the coil springs were cut, I would start over with new springs. Cut down springs aren't going to ride very well.
After searching around, that was my plan.
It depends on how much was cut. I cut mine down on the front of my '72 because a "reputable " dealer in Phoenix told me that their springs should have lowered my truck 2" instead of the 1/4" lift that I got. Mine measured the same as my Dad's '69, so I cut one coil off. Cut 1/3 off of the bump stop after driving it for a few weeks too. It rides very well, and several friends think so as well, so I'm not the only crazy one!
I don't know if that counts considering it sounds like the springs were probably not right from the start. I was speaking more towards the factory OE coils.
I guess that I don't understand what you are saying there. If you are referring to mine, it got compared to my Dad's '69, which has 50K miles on it, bought from the original owner. It is the closest to a factory fresh truck that I have been around, especially considering I was friends with the guy who ordered the truck, and got it brand new.
@TJ1978 's truck, we would have to find some way to compare springs, considering his is disassembled and lacking the weight, so ride height can't be determined.
So my point is, I bought springs once, and they weren't right when I compared them to Dad's truck. So be careful what gets purchased before the truck is assembled enough to test them.
Well yes, of course you'd want to make sure to get the correct springs. But I still think generally speaking a new spring is better than cutting down an old OE spring.
That's fine, but sometimes reality gets in the way of theory, which is why I was giving a heads up about my experience with buying new coil springs.
@TJ1978 the rear springs that I bought back then from AIM Industries (IIRC) , ride really well, the truck doesn't have any real hauling capacity anymore, it hits the bump stops quickly, but the ride is sweet! They are small diameter rod, similar to what I think that cars had in the rear. I keep thinking that someday I would like to try air ride, but I seem to get distracted by other projects.
