1972 Blazer isnt getting any spark, any ideas?

[luvmud]

Hello,
I am new to this forum and just purchased a 1972 Blazer at an auction for a great price. It had been sitting for 5-6 years so I gave it a complete tune-up and changed all the fluids.

It has a 350 which I tried to start but there isnt any spark at the spark plugs (the spark plugs and wires are brand new) so I installed a new distributor with new cap,rotor and coil but still no spark (the carb is getting fuel and when I pulled a plug it was wet with gas)

Any ideas what the problem might be and what I should try next?

Thanks for any help!

Photos of the Blazer (and its 2 brothers which I bought at the same auction) are located at:

Blazer pictures

 

[Z3PR]

Have you tried running a "hot wire" (from pos side of batt to pos side of coil) just too get it running ?? It sounds like the coil isn't getting any power.

 

[luvmud]

Thanks that solved it and it runs great, is the coil wire really supposed to be connected to the starter or alternator rather than to the battery?

When I turn the blazer key to off the engine keeps running and the only way to kill the engine is to pull the wire going from the battery to the coil.

Thanks for the info

 

[BobK]

Wiring it like Z3PR said is just to find out if you can get it running,just temporarily(sp).
It should be wired from an ign. on only,12+ source,like from the fuse block.

Trace the orig. power wire and see if it's broken,grounded,disconnected,etc.,fix that wire and check if it has 12v+ only when the ign is on.If so,reconnect to the dist.

The way you have it now,when you disconnect the battery and kill the eng.,I assume you reconnect the battery,right?
When the battery is reconnected the coil will have 12V+ going to it continuously.This will prematurely burn out your coil. and is not safe.

The coil should only have power to it when the ign. is in the "start" and "run" position.

 

[Boondocks]

If it has the original style ignition, there will be a resistor wire or ceramic resistor in the coil power circuit. If the latter, it may be broken. Keeping a full 12 volts to the points and condenser continuously, will cause problems down the road.

 

[RustyParts]

If you've got a test light handy, connect the alligator clip to a good ground and touch the positive battery post to sse if it lights. If it does connect the probe end of the test light to the positive side of the ignition coil, have someone turn on the ignition key, if the light lights you have voltage to the coil.

If the light doesn't light when the key is turned on you need to start working your way back to the ignition to find the trouble. Also if someone hasn't tampered with the wiring there is also a wire coming from the starter solenoid to the coil to supply an extra boost of voltage while cranking the engine.

Good luck