Im at at a standstill here fellas! changed calipers, rotors,pads,and flushed also bled front brakes in my 1972 k5 blazer. Still doing same thing brakes great for about 20 mins then you start to feel brake pedal get hard after a few more mins it start to drag and feel like im towing when i accelerate.front brakes get super hot and smell.What else can it be?
CK5
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1972 front brakes draggin and getting hot
- Thread starter Rush3812
- Start date
Old brake hoses can swell up and act as a one way check valve,and hold pressure against the pads...
Also if the master cylinder does not have a little free play at the pedal,the brakes will drag after the fluid warms up,it needs a little space for expansion...this usually only happens after a new master cylinder was installed,not just out of the blue though..
Also if the master cylinder does not have a little free play at the pedal,the brakes will drag after the fluid warms up,it needs a little space for expansion...this usually only happens after a new master cylinder was installed,not just out of the blue though..
Ive heard that hoses could do this, thats my next step also master cylinder hasnt been changed in over 10 years just kinda started happening and gradually getting worse
I replaced both calipers in my chevy van years ago for naught--it turned out to be the old original rubber brake hoses were the cause of the brakes dragging...it doesn't take much,once the brakes drag for a few miles,it can heat up the brake fluid enough to the point the free play at the master cylinder gets taken up,and then the brakes self-apply...
My van drove me nuts last year--I had let it sit over 10 years,and decided to pull it out of its resting spot and start fixing it up,in case I had to put it back on the road,should my truck fail..
I went to step on the brakes,and the pedal was "stuck"--after pushing harder,I felt it break free,and the brakes applied..then after moving it,a steel line going to the rear brakes popped from rust,and the pedal went right to the floor..(as can be expected!)--I replaced the whole line from the junction block up front to the rear end at the rubber brake hose,then attempted to bleed the system...
I had to pump the pedal like 20 times to get it to pump up--then as soon as I let off and pushed it down again,it would go right to the floor,with zero resistance..seeing the master cylinder was "seized" at first,I figured it had ripped the little rubber seals inside on the piston--so I went and bought a rebuilt master cylinder (only $20 at Autozone,to my surprise)..
After installing that,I had the exact same issue..and NO fluid was coming out of the rear wheel cylinders...even after removing the bleeders !..
After much confusion,I decided to take the new line I made up off at the rear brake hose on the diff--fluid squirted all over me,so I knew it was getting that far--then I took the rubber hose off,and found out it was plugged up tight,I couldn't get 125 psi of air from my compressor to blow thru it,nor shove a wire thru it..it was completely sealed up..
After I put a new hose on it,I had the brakes bled in like 10 minutes,after fighting with it for 2 days...(and I think the master cylinder was still good,but for $20 I did not mind replacing it,after it sat so long)...
My van drove me nuts last year--I had let it sit over 10 years,and decided to pull it out of its resting spot and start fixing it up,in case I had to put it back on the road,should my truck fail..
I went to step on the brakes,and the pedal was "stuck"--after pushing harder,I felt it break free,and the brakes applied..then after moving it,a steel line going to the rear brakes popped from rust,and the pedal went right to the floor..(as can be expected!)--I replaced the whole line from the junction block up front to the rear end at the rubber brake hose,then attempted to bleed the system...
I had to pump the pedal like 20 times to get it to pump up--then as soon as I let off and pushed it down again,it would go right to the floor,with zero resistance..seeing the master cylinder was "seized" at first,I figured it had ripped the little rubber seals inside on the piston--so I went and bought a rebuilt master cylinder (only $20 at Autozone,to my surprise)..
After installing that,I had the exact same issue..and NO fluid was coming out of the rear wheel cylinders...even after removing the bleeders !..
After much confusion,I decided to take the new line I made up off at the rear brake hose on the diff--fluid squirted all over me,so I knew it was getting that far--then I took the rubber hose off,and found out it was plugged up tight,I couldn't get 125 psi of air from my compressor to blow thru it,nor shove a wire thru it..it was completely sealed up..
After I put a new hose on it,I had the brakes bled in like 10 minutes,after fighting with it for 2 days...(and I think the master cylinder was still good,but for $20 I did not mind replacing it,after it sat so long)...
Yes,you will likely need longer brake hoses...
The front hoses I got from NAPA for my stock '82 GMC K2500 had to be "tweaked" at the metal line portion where they bolt to the calipers--if I had not checked to see if they would get pulled on by turning the wheels from full lock to lock while it was jacked up,they would have gotten ripped apart the first time I turned the wheels sharp to park!..
I had to carefully bend them so they had slack in all positions..
The front hoses I got from NAPA for my stock '82 GMC K2500 had to be "tweaked" at the metal line portion where they bolt to the calipers--if I had not checked to see if they would get pulled on by turning the wheels from full lock to lock while it was jacked up,they would have gotten ripped apart the first time I turned the wheels sharp to park!..
I had to carefully bend them so they had slack in all positions..
