CK5
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1972 K5 "Boise" Blazer Build (advice appreciated) mostly DIY.

Nice it is a 4x4 K case 700r4.
Test fit the flex plate inspection cover, from th350. Should be cast aluminum with bolt bosses for brace bars
 
I think ours is missing from the TH350. The 700R4 did come with a lower cover.
 
I was thinking I could fabricate a bar like that if I can find some strong steel.
 
you could, Does your engine have the motor mount plates ?


this is the cover https://www.ebay.com/itm/1349383069...dblazKjT6Wtbj+gz6AuJ2zZA==|tkp:Bk9SR576gMHPYw

k case cover.jpg

these go between the engine mount buckets and the block
 
Just checked and I am missing that cover for sure. The one with the new transmission is plastic. I want to do this right so I ordered a cover. (Picked the dirty one on ebay you probably saw it). I'll have to look into the motor mounts but I don't think I have those brackets either.

I'm interested in doing a posi in the rear as I have an open diff. Any deals? We are going to look at the gears in the axles and if they are good we are sticking with the stock 3.73s but if not we will re-gear.
 
I ordered those motor mount brackets as well. I gather some of this squarebody bracketry solves some of the issues with the older models and I should get it to go with the 700R4. I'll need some type of improved motor mount as well. I want this thing to be pretty tough. Still looking into getting a posi if anyone has ideas on a budget option.
 
Which factory vehicles did those two bars running from the inspection cover to the motor mounts come from? I'm trying to find a set.
 
Diyx4 or Off Road Design competition engine mounts.
I am fairley confident saying that all trucks with np203 came with bars. Not sure which later 700r4 trucks were equipped
 
I plan to hit up a few junkyards looking for the braces. Any other items I may want if I find a good parts truck?

I did some research on the axles and I am planning on going with 4.56 gears along with an Eaton Truetrac diff. The axles and hubs will also receive a full rebuild and paint job similar to the transfer case. My dad wanted to cheap out a bit on the axles but I think spending here will really make the drivability of the truck great with our overdrive transmission.

I called around about getting my frame blasted but everyone was a few weeks out and pretty expensive. This isn't going to be one of those builds that runs on for five years, I'm not feeling very patient. I have a friend with a small blaster so I did it myself. I really don't recommend doing it yourself (hard work!!) but it turned out pretty good. I have a few spots to clean up but it went well. I have a gallon of Chassis Saver antique satin black coming. I plan on getting a cheap spray gun and applying it that way.

While blasting my frame I noticed I have a bar welded onto the rear of the frame (see photo). I assume this is some sort of towing add on. It seems strong but the welds are ugly (though they are thick). I'm not completely satisfied with this so I'm wondering if there is some type of tow package I could get? I do intend on towing a small trailer.

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Frame is looking good.

Not sure about how that bar works. You should be able to find a bolt on receiver hitch for towing, either new or at a yard. Or if you plan on a custom rear bumper then just have a hitch receiver built into it.
 
Looking at a few other frames it looks like mine was modified to receive that huge gas tank so not sure what to do about it. There's also another angle iron that was bolted across in front of the tank (currently removed). I am thinking I'd like to cut that rear bar off and fabricate a bar with a hidden hitch receiver that goes in behind the license plate.
 
Looking at a few other frames it looks like mine was modified to receive that huge gas tank so not sure what to do about it. There's also another angle iron that was bolted across in front of the tank (currently removed). I am thinking I'd like to cut that rear bar off and fabricate a bar with a hidden hitch receiver that goes in behind the license plate.
While not the same tank, @ashman used relocated and created cross members to accommodate a larger tank.

But two cross members were used to provide locations for the straps.

Of the larger 40 gallon tanks similar to yours, I've seen the parts on the side that would bolt up to the frame directly.
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The 4 vertical bars on yours, did they go up through the bed to attach the tank? Beside your ratchet straps, what held it up?
 
My tank was held in place just by those four long bolts into the bed. I'm thinking I could cut the rear bar off and put this universal hitch in its place. I would have to fabricate some side plates to bolt it up to and possibly strengthen the frame a bit. I'll have to measure to see if I can fit it all. The license plate covers it up normally and can be put on a hinge to swing up.

hitch.jpg
 
My tank was held in place just by those four long bolts into the bed. I'm thinking I could cut the rear bar off and put this universal hitch in its place. I would have to fabricate some side plates to bolt it up to and possibly strengthen the frame a bit. I'll have to measure to see if I can fit it all. The license plate covers it up normally and can be put on a hinge to swing up.

View attachment 471701
My receiver is behind the plate as well (something the PO had welded up), but I have the regular tank and cross members. I just remove the plate, but had thought about the hinges as well.
 
Tank would be nice to keep and use.

you can weld anything you want as a hitch, the frame isn't going to care.
 
I'm learning that this truck is very worn out. I tore down the rear axle and the spider gears and axles are pitted. I'm going with an Eaton Trutrac, Yukon axles, 4.56 gears, and 1350 yokes. I'll see what the front end has in a few days.

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