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1972 K5 Frame Off RestoMod - LS3 w/ 4L70e

brianfeiden

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Hello! I am new to this forum and looking to gather info as well as share. I have a very clean 1972 K5 I have pulled apart down to the frame. I am blasting/powder coating every component and replacing a lot. I won't bore you with everything we're doing just yet, but the LS3 w/ 4L70e is showing up today...and I couldn't be more excited!

This K5 will only be used on-road for local deliveries as well as attending car shows etc...I am looking to improve the ride as much as possible however, not interested in modifying for coil over. What suspension have you found to the ride the softest? Going to have 6" lift.

More to come along with pics.
 
Hello! I am new to this forum and looking to gather info as well as share. I have a very clean 1972 K5 I have pulled apart down to the frame. I am blasting/powder coating every component and replacing a lot. I won't bore you with everything we're doing just yet, but the LS3 w/ 4L70e is showing up today...and I couldn't be more excited!

This K5 will only be used on-road for local deliveries as well as attending car shows etc...I am looking to improve the ride as much as possible however, not interested in modifying for coil over. What suspension have you found to the ride the softest? Going to have 6" lift.

More to come along with pics.
Custom Alcan springs by Offroad Design are pretty soft: http://offroaddesign.com/catalog/ORDCustomSprings.htm
 
Now we're talking!
 
Here is an update. I tried to 'test fit' the LS3 and 4L70E and found the cross member was too narrow. After some research, I decided on the Dirty Dingo cross member. I had a fantastic conversation with the owner and placed my order. I could not be more pleased with the fitment. I will comment more once I test fit the drivetrain this week.

I also decided on the Offroad Design suspension. Going with a 6" lift, which comprises of 6" leaf springs up front and 2" leaf in the back with the shackle flip. Interested to here feedback from others who have gone with this set up?

Sending the frame out to powder coat by the end of this week. Going to weld closed some of the 'useless' holes in the frame before we drop it off.

More to come later this week.

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That cross member looks fancy, but I think I'd want it plated and welded. Just a little too cute for what it needs to do...the bolts loosen even a little and what have you got then? Problems.

You'd almost think Dirty Dingo had been criticized in the past for poor welding or something.

Anyways, aside from that this looks to be a super cool build with a real budget. I'll be following along for sure! :waytogo:
 
That cross member looks fancy, but I think I'd want it plated and welded. Just a little too cute for what it needs to do...the bolts loosen even a little and what have you got then? Problems.

You'd almost think Dirty Dingo had been criticized in the past for poor welding or something.

Anyways, aside from that this looks to be a super cool build with a real budget. I'll be following along for sure! :waytogo:

tRusty - After a lot of research and feedback, I've heard all good things on the DD cross member. It utilizes all grade 8 and lock nuts which are exactly the same as Offroad Design lock nuts for suspension. Once we're up and going, I will report back with results after a many miles...clearly something I'll keep an eye on periodically...likely every time we perform service.

Just ordered Borla crate mufflers (Atak series), 2 1/2" hotrod assembly kit and stainless shorty headers. Going to hear every ounce of juice from the LS3!!!!!!! :bow:

Also looking at Eaton Posi system for the 12 bolt rear end. Anyone have experience with this?

Tis a real budget indeed - I think I need my head checked...:1zhelp:
 
tRusty - After a lot of research and feedback, I've heard all good things on the DD cross member. It utilizes all grade 8 and lock nuts which are exactly the same as Offroad Design lock nuts for suspension. Once we're up and going, I will report back with results after a many miles...clearly something I'll keep an eye on periodically...likely every time we perform service.

Keep in mind you'll probably find most reviews based on 2wd street trucks, I've never seen one of those on a 4wd truck. The fasteners aren't the issue, it's the design with the spacers that will allow it to twist, why they didn't box that is really odd. It's one of those things that is really easy to fix now, later not so much.

Might want to look at the weld in steering box plate that ORD sells too.

Cool project.
 
Keep in mind you'll probably find most reviews based on 2wd street trucks, I've never seen one of those on a 4wd truck. The fasteners aren't the issue, it's the design with the spacers that will allow it to twist, why they didn't box that is really odd. It's one of those things that is really easy to fix now, later not so much.

Might want to look at the weld in steering box plate that ORD sells too.

Cool project.
Appreciate the heads up! Good thing about this build, it is ONLY going to be driven on the street. I know some will say it's a complete waste to only drive on road...but with the investment I'm putting in to it, it will likely be showcased at customer appreciation events and maybe a few auto shows in the Texas circuit. Off-road will be left for a different rig. :cool:
 
Appreciate the heads up! Good thing about this build, it is ONLY going to be driven on the street. I know some will say it's a complete waste to only drive on road...but with the investment I'm putting in to it, it will likely be showcased at customer appreciation events and maybe a few auto shows in the Texas circuit. Off-road will be left for a different rig. :cool:
Nothing wrong with building a sweet restomod and keeping it on the street, lots of other basher rigs you can build for the trail.
 
I look forward to more progress going forward! I only brought up my concerns to head off any possible issues down the road. Sometimes a little constructive criticism goes a long way. There was no malice in my comments whatsoever...

For a street/show truck that cross member will probably be fine. My area of concern was with the twisting forces these trucks see when they get wheeled.
 
The one thing I like about the Dirty Dingo crossmember is that the center section is removable just in case you need to drop the pan out from under the engine without having to remove it. I've only ever seen solid crossmembers from other manufactures( LS swap ones specifically).
 
I have that spring combo, well 4" not 6 but boy do I love the ride. On the street my rig feels like a Cadillac, and on the dirt it still feels like a Cadillac.Looking at those frame off pics looks like I'm seeing my build all over.
 
Here is an update - finally! We have been through quite a bit. The Borla headers, exhaust and hot rod kit showed up a few weeks ago. We removed the OE headers and replaced with the borla. Went to test fit the engine/trans to the frame...and ran in to clearance issues with headers! I guess that's one reason they call it resto-MOD. So after much debate, we shaved a little off the frame. :grind: When I say a little, I mean enough to clear headers, but not to change the structural integrity by any measure worth worry.

Once we shaved a little of the frame, we went to test fit again. Upon dropping the engine all the way down on the new mounts, the 2nd header in was coming in contact with the dirty dingo...ugh! :angry1:

After much debate and research, I happened upon a fantastic machine shop just a few miles away. So I bought some 1x5 aluminum flat bar and fabricated some engine mount spacers. Voila!!! Now we have a great fit...finally!

Now some of you are going to critique the grind - but we are now cleaning up the frame modification so it looks like a factory job prior to powder coat.

btw - I welcome all feedback and questions...I'm not too proud nor do I even come close to knowing all I need to know...quite the opposite really.

Next week we are off to powder coat the frame, axles and a few other components. Has anyone installed AMP Research steps in their 1st or 2nd gen K5? Would love to hear how you did it.

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Oh yeah - and we're going to test fit the body and core support Monday evening to make sure we don't have any clearance issues with the trans tunnel and upfront goodies. We had to move the trans/engine forward approx. 1.65" to make room for the NP205 Advance Adapter kit.
 
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