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1974 Blazer Tailgate

Chief Brody

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I am about to take my tailgate off and decide if I can weld it or just buy a Goodmark whole tailgate.

Has anyone installed a Goodmark tailgate? Are they as heavy as the original...quality?

The problem is that there are 3 places on my tailgate that have been previously welded and the weld all broke...I am afraid I won't have any better luck as the tailgate "flexes" at those points when you lift it and close it...

Opinions????
 
If it's in otherwise good condition I'd look into repairing the GM steel. I tend to think a reinforcement piece on the inside of the gate at the corners would make a world of difference in rigidity. It could be plug welded from the outside, then the cracks welded from the outside. Finish, paint and forget about it.

Having the gate fit as good as possible, with latches and stuff well lubed will also help as you won't have to slam the tailgate closed.

Old GM steel > Goodmark steel

Rene
 
Here is the spot I am most worried about...it's near the middle top and that part flexes when you push on the tailgate.



DSC_00010001.JPG

DSC_00020001.JPG
 
Odd to see a problem there...pretty much every cracked tailgate I've seen is at the corners at the top. I guess the vast majority of people use two hands nearer the corners to slam the gate shut.

I'd graft in a section to repair that. Pretty easy IMO. A strip of reinforcement metal on the inside would help too.

Rene
 
Odd to see a problem there...pretty much every cracked tailgate I've seen is at the corners at the top. I guess the vast majority of people use two hands nearer the corners to slam the gate shut.

I'd graft in a section to repair that. Pretty easy IMO. A strip of reinforcement metal on the inside would help too.

Rene

You mean cut it out and patch it?
 
Yup, even the crappiest tailgate will have enough of a good section in that area...should be plenty of guys here willing to cut out a section of a rusty tailgate for you for little to nothing. I just scrapped a tailgate that would have had exactly what you need...

Rene
 
How much grinding does it take to get the welds smooth enough for filler and finishing?
 
I'm still looking for a reconditioned Hobart at a good price....a Miller would work too, but people are too proud of them around here...
 
How much grinding does it take to get the welds smooth enough for filler and finishing?

Not much at all, I use 36 grit 5" sanding disc's and make a point of not applying too much pressure. You don't want to take all the precautions welding it only to overheat and distort the panel grinding down the welds. :doah:

I like a gap of about 1/32" on body sheetmetal. Tight enough you're not gonna blow through, and yet easy enough to get full penetration. Full pen is important because you're going to grind/sand down the entire top of the weld.

You can always peen the welded area lightly to make it a hair lower than the surrounding steel. This will give you a very shallow void to lay some fill over.

The area you need to repair is actually pretty easy as it's pretty rigid, you're just not going to have a lot of warping/distortion there. It'd be a great first time patch welding area.

Rene
 

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