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1974 Blazer won’t start.

T

TyBlaze74

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My 74 Blazer won’t start. About 8 months ago I was having issues. Turn the key and nothing from the starter. Lights in the dash would come on, electric fuel pump would come on but nothing from the starter. Try it several times and then it would start.
I replaced the ignition cylinder and then everything worked fine until last week. Now it’s doing the same thing. Starts some times but won’t most of the time.
So today I replaced the ignition cylinder again. (Because it’s easy and cheap and it worked last time)
It started right up. Shut it off and started it again no problem. Started it again and shut it off. Now it won’t crank. Lights in the dash come on and electric fuel pump comes on but still nothing from the starter.
It has a 5.3 LS/Vortec
Any ideas?
Thanks
 
Yeah it is adjustable. Two 5/16 hex head screws, loosen and push switch toward steering wheel. See if cranking improves.
Also check that battercsbles are tight at battery, starter lug and block.
 
Also check neutral safety switch adjustment.
 
Could you explain to me how to adjust the switch. That seems to be my problem. It doesn’t feel like when I turn the key forward that I am getting as much resistance as I use too. If I move the switch further up the column it would work.
Do I need to drop the steering column to adjust the switch?
Thanks
 
No need to drop the column, fact that would make it harder.

Under dash yoga. You want be on the gas pedal side. Either a small box end wrench or 1/4" drive ratchet and short socket. There is only 1/8" adjustment.
 
Ok so I tried to adjust the starter switch. Loosened the nuts slid it up towards the steering wheel. Still nothing.
Installed new starter switch still nothing.
It doesn’t feel like the ignition cylinder is pushing the switch when I turn the key all the way forward?
Can I put a screwdriver in the ignition switch and push it forward manually and start the truck?
Thanks
 
you can do that. But it would suck for every day use.

if the adjustment didn't work then the up part of the actuator rod in switch near steering wheel connected to the key cylinder. this is called the rack and rod.
Remove the cover on turn signal stalk, with a light you should see a black plastic gear piece. This gear piece is turned by the Key cylinder, and it should be engaged in gray metal square rod with matching teeth. The gray square rod will fit into a rectangular hoop attached to rod that works switch. If you have tilt.
This black plastic gear can get chewed up. It can be forced to skip esp if the column has been worked on before. there is a funky hair pin shaped spring holding that gear.

Need to know tilt or not to be more helpful
 
If I move the switch with a screwdriver that would confirm the switch is good correct?
Then it would narrow it down to the cylinder?
 
So when I slide the ignition switch forward with a screwdriver the truck fires right up. I put the switch back on the column and turn the key to accessory and the dash lights up and fuel pump runs. Turn the key to on and nothing. It just feels like the ignition cylinder is not pushing the rod any further in the ignition switch. I have the ignition cylinder out and here are some pictures. Any suggestions??
Thanks

IMG_5393.jpeg

IMG_5392.jpeg
 
1st the fuel pump shouldn't run in accessory, secondary issue for now.

rack an rod.jpeg

Yellow arrow is the rack that is attached to the pin gear on the back side of the key cylinder. with needle nose pliers turn the rectangle at bottom of key cylinder well, clock wise to start and counter clockwise for accessories. In the off position the the gray rectangle (yellow arrow) should be flush with upper shift bowl.
You may have to dig deeper into the column, be sure to remove tilt spring before removing the 3 Philips head pan screws. The rack and rod will be accessible then, watch all the parts carefully as you remove the upper bowl, to see how they are assemble.
 
Rack is flush. Installed new ignition cylinder still won’t start. Next I tried to adjust ignition switch. I had it all the way (up) towards the steering wheel. Nothing. Slid it towards the floor board and now it’s starting perfectly. Lots of spring pressure from the starter switch when I turn the key!!
Thanks for the suggestions and help from all.
 
Also electric fuel pump only runs for a second or two when you turn the key. It’s been that way as long as I’ve owned it?
 
Glad you got it. Sorry my memory had the switch upside down.

Yes when the key is moved to on position, fuel pump should run a 2 second prime. It should not do this in accessory position
 
All this complicated column ignition stuff with plastic parts involved, reminds me of why I miss the Older trucks with ignition switch in dash. Nothing but turn the key !!!!
 
The start position in the ignition switch are backwards between a tilt column and solid column. One of them you move towards the column, and the other one moves away.
 
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