Also, I have this. I'd be willing to mail it to you as long as you mail it back when you're done.
CK5
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1974 Jimmy
- Thread starter texarback
- Start date
I measured the shim that came off the pinion. Everything I've read says what you suggested with the .30-.34.
Keep in mind that this diff has been worked on in the past. Not sure when and not sure how accurate it was.
Interesting comments on the pattern vs the backlash. That is where I have moved. If I'm a few thousands out of spec I test for a pattern and try to lock that in. My biggest issue is the meshing never gives a good imprint. I'm going to focus on putting more pressure on everything and try to get those teeth to really bit into one another.
Keep in mind that this diff has been worked on in the past. Not sure when and not sure how accurate it was.
Interesting comments on the pattern vs the backlash. That is where I have moved. If I'm a few thousands out of spec I test for a pattern and try to lock that in. My biggest issue is the meshing never gives a good imprint. I'm going to focus on putting more pressure on everything and try to get those teeth to really bit into one another.
Thanks for the offer. I just purchased the book.
One thing I do while running a pattern is hold a shop rag against the ring gear with quite a bit of pressure and use an impact to turn the yoke, gets a more constant pressure and I run the ring gear 2-3 times.
I've tried that. Only I wear a glove and hold the ring gear as it spins. I'll see if I can take a short video and post it. Maybe someone can see something I'm doing wrong. I bought a tube of GM marking paint. Someone told me it could it be bad paint? Is that such a thing?
if you are using straight paint, try mixing just a few drops of gear oil in it
I had forgotten about this trick. I didn't have to do it when I checked my pattern but I know of lots of people that do it that way. Good advice.
Thanks. I’ll try that when I get back on it this weekend.
First, thinning the paint helped with getting a mark.
Thoughts?
Thoughts?
I’m getting the Dana 44 cleaned up and have started reassemble.
One of the Stepped Hub Drive Gears has been marred up by debris. The damage extends into the teeth just a little. I might can clean it up.
But, it appears this part has been discontinued and only one place (Torque King) has one for sale. At $120 I’m making sure they are the only option if I go the replacement route.
Here is my question: looking at Dennys Driveshaft, they show a Drive Gear that is completely different. Dana Spicer 42667 is their part number.
Is that the same thing but in a different design? I can call them tomorrow and ask but wanted to see if anyone around here has thoughts.
Last, if this is just a cosmetic issue and won't be an issue mechanically please let me know. The truck is 50 years old and I suspect I'm okay rolling with it as is.
One of the Stepped Hub Drive Gears has been marred up by debris. The damage extends into the teeth just a little. I might can clean it up.
But, it appears this part has been discontinued and only one place (Torque King) has one for sale. At $120 I’m making sure they are the only option if I go the replacement route.
Here is my question: looking at Dennys Driveshaft, they show a Drive Gear that is completely different. Dana Spicer 42667 is their part number.
Is that the same thing but in a different design? I can call them tomorrow and ask but wanted to see if anyone around here has thoughts.
Last, if this is just a cosmetic issue and won't be an issue mechanically please let me know. The truck is 50 years old and I suspect I'm okay rolling with it as is.
This is where I’m at currently. I’m still fighting the rear diff.
Are these the slugs?
If you clean up the edge of the spline area you should be fine.
They are. I'll clean the teeth and reuse. They are not terrible. I was more concerned with the rough face on the backside. I don't know how they work and if that surface spins while touching another surface then I worried it might bugger something up.
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They should be kept away from the spindle nut by a c clip iirc but if you can take a picture with the hub removed it might refresh my memory.
At minimum I would clean up the surface and make it smooth, it doesn't matter if you take some material out
You could just replace them with lockout hubs.
Martin
Martin
I’m trying to keep everything “factory” as possible.
I took a file and cleaned it up. Think it will work as designed.
I took a file and cleaned it up. Think it will work as designed.
I got the rear diff button up and installed on the frame. Hopefully the front end will go smoothly. I’m ready to have a rolling chassis and to move on to the body.
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I reinstalled the back axle to the frame.
Have a question about the U Bolts. The U Bolts came from LMC.
Installed and properly torqued per the service manual.
They feel too short.
Is this okay?
Have a question about the U Bolts. The U Bolts came from LMC.
Installed and properly torqued per the service manual.
They feel too short.
Is this okay?
To short. Not even full thread engagement.
Brain said that was the case. Heart said something different.
