1974 Jimmy

[texarback]

The entire inside looks like the right side of the picture i posted above. It is nothing but surface rust but it could be worse. I can't really tell.. I'm not sure how to sand that down and then repaint.

I've thought about basically cutting out the top (yellow) of the cowl, sanding and painting everything and then welding the top back on.

Thoughts?

 

[texarback]

Also, I assume the inside of the cowl was painted black from the factory? I can't tell. That is how rusty the inside is.

And thanks for the reminder about Fritzee. He is on my YouTube subscribe list and I've watched that video. I'm enjoying his crusty build.

 

[jimmyleetn]

Also, I assume the inside of the cowl was painted black from the factory? I can't tell. That is how rusty the inside is.

And thanks for the reminder about Fritzee. He is on my YouTube subscribe list and I've watched that video. I'm enjoying his crusty build.

The inside will be the same color as the body, but if you paint it black, who's going to see it once the cowl screen is on? You could drill out the spot welds on the firewall and then you'd only need to cut the top yellow line you drew. You could get some cavity coater from Eastwood and just use that on the surface rust to seal it in. Depends on how far you want to take it. Also, think about it like this, the truck is 50yrs old and only has surface rust in this area. You'll probably never drive in heavy rain or snow or leave it parked in that kind of weather which means if you just seal it as is most likely it'll put you in the grave before it ever rots. Much of that surface rust came from years of the vehicle not being stored in a garage and driven as normal truck, not a collectible truck. On the other side of that coin though, I get you wanting to eliminate all rust. I took some stuff apart I probably didn't need to on my build too.

 

[texarback]

You could drill out the spot welds on the firewall and then you'd only need to cut the top yellow line you drew.

This is what I contemplated yesterday. My only reservation is I don't like the idea of having to remove the steering wheel bracket piece. With that said, once I saw how the window was welded together I didn't like the thought of cutting the front pillar to remove it all. I'm looking for the easiest path to access that inner area.

 

[jimmyleetn]

Well this would be the easiest path, just might not be as invasive as your other option.

Eastwood Internal Frame Coating Aerosol Green

Spray coating inside chassis so it doesn't rust thru

www.eastwood.com

 

[texarback]

Stared at it for a while tonight. I’m going to try to treat it and grind the rust I can reach. I really don’t want to cut it open.

 

[jimmyleetn]

Stared at it for a while tonight. I’m going to try to treat it and grind the rust I can reach. I really don’t want to cut it open.

With that side panel off you'll be able to get way up in there. Even more so if you take both the passenger side off, but then you have the "joy" of putting them back on after drilling out all those obnoxious spot welds.

 

[texarback]

Yeah, both side panels have rust in them and there is a really good video showing floor/kick panel replacement and removing them is almost a must.

 

[jimmyleetn]

Yeah, both side panels have rust in them and there is a really good video showing floor/kick panel replacement and removing them is almost a must.

Ah yes. I watched all of milkcrate's videos when I did mine back in the summer of '22 and '23. Very helpful. Fortunately, you can order those side panels now new. I did that on the driver's side, used a donor on the passenger. I have a driver's side one for 73-80 if you want an original. The aftermarket ones fit ok though. Aftermarket one in the picture.

 

[texarback]

They are both in good shape. The drivers side has one rust through spot that is about 2". But it is in a awkward spot so patching it will take some patience. I was going to buy the new part and cut out the section I need and graft it in.

 

[texarback]

Coming soon…

Hydramatic TH350 rebuild…

Lots of grey sludge is coming out of it as I pull it apart.

 

[texarback]

Question for the more studious mechanics here:

This TH350 rebuild; I can drop it off at my local transmission place (top notch joint from what I have been told) and they will rebuild it for $115 labor + parts.

I should probably do that right?

I am in the early stages of tearing it apart and do want to build it back myself but for $115 it seems like letting a professional handle this duty would be the smart play.

 

[centexk5]

That’s what I’d do.

 

[tarussell]

Question for the more studious mechanics here:

This TH350 rebuild; I can drop it off at my local transmission place (top notch joint from what I have been told) and they will rebuild it for $115 labor + parts.

I should probably do that right?

I am in the early stages of tearing it apart and do want to build it back myself but for $115 it seems like letting a professional handle this duty would be the smart play.

With a few select specialty tools most folks that are truly mechanically inclined are able to tear down and re stack a common TH350 trans with no problem.
The problem lies in if these folks are capable of identifying issues during the disassembly and/or spot them while stacking the unit.

You mentioned that the case had a pile of gray sludge in the pan - this is a big ole sign of needing more than the standard rebuild kit.
You might have tolerances caused by wear on components that you are not aware of or know to look out for.
Anyone can put something together in an order as directed - these are known as “parts changers” but a true mechanic ( some are more specialized than others ) evaluates each job as the reason for needing replacement and what went wrong in the first place; also verifying things on tear down and inspection of all components before deciding on replacement.
And then the rebuild can begin and all the skill sets involved that come with it.
Many folks get lucky and many create their own heartaches - choose your projects wisely.

Just something to consider…

 

[jimmyleetn]

Question for the more studious mechanics here:

This TH350 rebuild; I can drop it off at my local transmission place (top notch joint from what I have been told) and they will rebuild it for $115 labor + parts.

I should probably do that right?

I am in the early stages of tearing it apart and do want to build it back myself but for $115 it seems like letting a professional handle this duty would be the smart play.

Yes, but I will warn you you may have trouble getting the parts you need for the th350. My dad just had his worked on and they had a hard time getting some of the parts at the transmission shop. If you think about it, they haven't really made one of those in going on 40 years.

 

[texarback]

With a few select specialty tools most folks that are truly mechanically inclined are able to tear down and re stack a common TH350 trans with no problem.
The problem lies in if these folks are capable of identifying issues during the disassembly and/or spot them while stacking the unit.

You mentioned that the case had a pile of gray sludge in the pan - this is a big ole sign of needing more than the standard rebuild kit.
You might have tolerances caused by wear on components that you are not aware of or know to look out for.

Just something to consider…

Great Point on the tolerances and not something I've given much thought about.

Yes, but I will warn you you may have trouble getting the parts you need for the th350. My dad just had his worked on and they had a hard time getting some of the parts at the transmission shop. If you think about it, they haven't really made one of those in going on 40 years.

I did ask the shop if parts would be an issue when I talked to them. He said that it shouldn't be a problem but he would need to tear it down to know what all it would need.

YouTube makes everything seem easy but I think I'm going to drop it off. I want it to be as rock solid as the day it left the factory. Plus, looking at the few tools I "might" need, I'd spend some of that $115.

 

[imiceman44]

Question for the more studious mechanics here:

This TH350 rebuild; I can drop it off at my local transmission place (top notch joint from what I have been told) and they will rebuild it for $115 labor + parts.

I should probably do that right?

I am in the early stages of tearing it apart and do want to build it back myself but for $115 it seems like letting a professional handle this duty would be the smart play.

Is that $115 total labor or per hour?
I know most professionals can rebuild one in a couple of hours if they have things on hand and no hard parts are a problem.
My guy here charges $100 per hour if you want to do something not typical.
He charged me $100 to change the output shaft

 

[texarback]

$115 total for a bench top build. Said he could have it back to me in 3 to 4 days.

I specifically asked if it was $115 total for labor and he said yes.

 

[texarback]

I almost asked him how he puts food on the table.

 

[tarussell]

. I want it to be as rock solid as the day it left the factory.

Something to consider - in your quote above you state that you want it to be as rock solid as the day it left the factory but you are having it built at the most rock-bottom K-Mart blue light special price.
Now to be fair the basic kits for a TH350 are very cheap but parts that cheap are not going to get you “rock solid” results - you are going to get what you pay for.

Now if you are really after just the minimum then all is well but keep in mind that you will still need a converter and cooler ( highly recommend ) and all this is assuming that you will not need any hard parts ( I refer back to your comment on the pile of gray sludge…).

Not trying to bash on your plans at all - just want you to have realistic expectations of what you are paying for. Ya just can’t expect to pay bottom dollar and get long lasting rock solid results - once again, you will get no more than what you pay for.
Bottom dollar equals bottom quality!
Please take this advice as it is intended - as a warning of what to expect.