I'm on my second one. It has about 120 miles on it now and it went into neutral when it should have shifted to third today. I guess at some point I have to get good at building these.
CK5
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1974 Jimmy
- Thread starter texarback
- Start date
Alright. Need help. You never know what you are missing until reassembly is contemplated.
I don't know why but the mount that holds the Transfer Case to the frame was taken off and is gone. No clue why this would have been omitted. I actually have the top piece where the brake cable rod attaches but the big bottom piece that bolts to the frame and the TC is gone. As are the bolts.
I knew that there was one but didn't know if it was "optional". Researching something else on YouTube and I ran across what I'm missing:
Anyone have a line on one? I'll throw up a request on the Parts Wanted page too.
Supper frustrating.
I don't know why but the mount that holds the Transfer Case to the frame was taken off and is gone. No clue why this would have been omitted. I actually have the top piece where the brake cable rod attaches but the big bottom piece that bolts to the frame and the TC is gone. As are the bolts.
I knew that there was one but didn't know if it was "optional". Researching something else on YouTube and I ran across what I'm missing:
Anyone have a line on one? I'll throw up a request on the Parts Wanted page too.
Supper frustrating.
Here is a better picture from another member's post:
ck5.com
NP 205 Torque mount help
I am going to be reinstalling my NP205 soon and I need a picture of how the torque arm bushings are oriented. I know what mine looked like when I took it out but I have seen a picture that showed it different. There is the big L type bracket that bolts to the transfer case. There is also a...
ck5.com
It was omitted in later years because it cracked bellhousings. If it were me I’d look for a strut rod from the bell housing to the t case before I’d replace that mount.
The frame and engine/trans combo flex in different ways and usually the bell housing becomes the weak link, the improved design uses a rod to go from the bell housing to those two holes on the case.
The frame and engine/trans combo flex in different ways and usually the bell housing becomes the weak link, the improved design uses a rod to go from the bell housing to those two holes on the case.
Those were a bad design and discontinued on later years.
If you are not going to flex the frame in wheeling situations, then you can rebuild/replace. Honestly it isn't needed.
The bell housing brace bar is the better option.
@Chickntrk beat me to it
If you are not going to flex the frame in wheeling situations, then you can rebuild/replace. Honestly it isn't needed.
The bell housing brace bar is the better option.
@Chickntrk beat me to it
Ah, thanks for the info. Well, mine doesn't have the brace bar either.
Definitely won't be doing any wheeling.
Do you guys think I need one or the other? Or, run without anything? I've seen this truck do some pretty aggressive movement in off-road situations 30ish years ago so assume it will be fine with neither.
Edit: after doing a little more research I see that it was common for Jimmys to come without either. Think I will ignore for now. Can always add later if my paranoia flares up.
Thanks guys!
Definitely won't be doing any wheeling.
Do you guys think I need one or the other? Or, run without anything? I've seen this truck do some pretty aggressive movement in off-road situations 30ish years ago so assume it will be fine with neither.
Edit: after doing a little more research I see that it was common for Jimmys to come without either. Think I will ignore for now. Can always add later if my paranoia flares up.
Thanks guys!
the bell housing brace bar can be added anytime. I would get one, esp if your engine is going to have good torque with large tires. The 4 bolts at the tail housing and the bell housing will appreciate the bar.
I may have an extra one of those if you need one. I’ll check later today.
Let me know. I can always throw it up on my shelf should I ever need it.
@kennyw may have the crossmember. eBay is another great place to look.
I have the cross member and the bracket but I believe he just needs the bracket
I do not have those brace parts. I've never seen one in person actually.
That is correct. I only was looking for the bracket and would pick one up if found.
This reinforces what everyone above has said about GM removed them from the 73/74 and older trucks. When I cleaned the frame there was no sign that the bracket had ever been there. But, it was an old rusty frame so maybe time removed all traces. I don't think so though...
I didn't even think about it until I ran across the YouTube channel above where he had a 73 Jimmy with the bracket.
The support rod/bar that Wes showed a picture of would be a wise addition even if you never intend to go off-road.
The NP-203 is VERY heavy and when not supported gives a “tail wagging the dog” kind of effect even in normal street type driving conditions.
GM did not use any bracing between 76~77/78 and it was a mistake - transmission cases were still cracking at the tail end due to the weight of the T-case.
Sometime around 1978 GM got smart and started installing the side brace/rod as well as what is known as the “K” type transmission case for all 4WD’s that had thicker bellhousing knecks and additional brace/rods that went from the bottom torque converter dust shield ( these were cast aluminum instead of tin ) to brackets between the motor mounts and engine block on each side.
Both sets of braces absolutely fixed the problem of cracking the trans cases.
I realize that you are trying to build a “as factory” 74 model K5 but think of this as correcting a problem that should have been installed all along - besides it’s still a factory item that should have been there all along.
This side bar/brace was only offered for a TH350/NP-203 setup for 1979 ( maybe also some of 1978 ) model year before the NP-203 was dropped as an option so if you find one grab it because they are fairly rare.
The NP-203 is VERY heavy and when not supported gives a “tail wagging the dog” kind of effect even in normal street type driving conditions.
GM did not use any bracing between 76~77/78 and it was a mistake - transmission cases were still cracking at the tail end due to the weight of the T-case.
Sometime around 1978 GM got smart and started installing the side brace/rod as well as what is known as the “K” type transmission case for all 4WD’s that had thicker bellhousing knecks and additional brace/rods that went from the bottom torque converter dust shield ( these were cast aluminum instead of tin ) to brackets between the motor mounts and engine block on each side.
Both sets of braces absolutely fixed the problem of cracking the trans cases.
I realize that you are trying to build a “as factory” 74 model K5 but think of this as correcting a problem that should have been installed all along - besides it’s still a factory item that should have been there all along.
This side bar/brace was only offered for a TH350/NP-203 setup for 1979 ( maybe also some of 1978 ) model year before the NP-203 was dropped as an option so if you find one grab it because they are fairly rare.
Thanks all for the help and guidance.
So, anyone have the side bar/brace they want to sell?
So, anyone have the side bar/brace they want to sell?
Don’t wear yourself out trying to locate one because it’s fairly easy to modify one from another application ( cut and lengthen ).
All squares from the late seventies onwards came with them and also the GMT400’s too - should be easy to pick one up to modify.
BTW, you’re doing a great job building the K5 - that thing will be great when you get it done!
All squares from the late seventies onwards came with them and also the GMT400’s too - should be easy to pick one up to modify.
BTW, you’re doing a great job building the K5 - that thing will be great when you get it done!
Thanks for the kind words.
It is definitely going slow. But, I feel like I'm about to make significant and good progress.
I've got the engine completely torn apart and hope to take that to the Man in the next week or so. I hope to have the engine done before Thanksgiving. I will then get that and the transmission/TC/drive shafts installed onto the frame. At that point the frame will be a true rolling chassis and will be 99% done. All that will be left is the body repair.
My goal at that point will be to get the underside of the body cleaned up and painted so it can be reinstalled back onto the frame.
For some reason getting the body back on the frame, mentally, seems like a huge hurdle that then makes me feel like the project is "getting there". I know there will still be a lot to do with the rust but at the same time I could throw a steering wheel back in it and seats and it could conceivable be driven!?!?! I don't know...
It is definitely going slow. But, I feel like I'm about to make significant and good progress.
I've got the engine completely torn apart and hope to take that to the Man in the next week or so. I hope to have the engine done before Thanksgiving. I will then get that and the transmission/TC/drive shafts installed onto the frame. At that point the frame will be a true rolling chassis and will be 99% done. All that will be left is the body repair.
My goal at that point will be to get the underside of the body cleaned up and painted so it can be reinstalled back onto the frame.
For some reason getting the body back on the frame, mentally, seems like a huge hurdle that then makes me feel like the project is "getting there". I know there will still be a lot to do with the rust but at the same time I could throw a steering wheel back in it and seats and it could conceivable be driven!?!?! I don't know...
I dropped the block and heads off at the machine shop two weeks ago. He is going to magnaflux the block and check the heads for cracks and get everything cleaned up. He is also going to build the engine for me. I would like to do it but I also don’t want to pay someone to redo it when I screw it up.
The bores are going to be ground to 30 over and we are going with a hydraulic roller cam. Don’t know yet what brand.
As controversial as it may be, if the heads are good I’m going to keep them.
While that is cooking I started working on the body. I made en executive decision to have it blasted. It’s just too much in my small garage and there is a ton of mud, oil, and thick undercoating.
Question: is there anything I need to be mindful of when having a car body sand blasted?
I know about the heat and warping issues if not careful but all I’m really getting blasted is the firewall, complete underside, inside floors/bed, and the pillars. The bedsides and rockers need to be replaced so if they warp a little then no big deal.
I kind of wish there were places that still do chemical dipping. I wouldn’t have to worry about the places I can’t get to like inside the cowl.
Thoughts?
The bores are going to be ground to 30 over and we are going with a hydraulic roller cam. Don’t know yet what brand.
As controversial as it may be, if the heads are good I’m going to keep them.
While that is cooking I started working on the body. I made en executive decision to have it blasted. It’s just too much in my small garage and there is a ton of mud, oil, and thick undercoating.
Question: is there anything I need to be mindful of when having a car body sand blasted?
I know about the heat and warping issues if not careful but all I’m really getting blasted is the firewall, complete underside, inside floors/bed, and the pillars. The bedsides and rockers need to be replaced so if they warp a little then no big deal.
I kind of wish there were places that still do chemical dipping. I wouldn’t have to worry about the places I can’t get to like inside the cowl.
Thoughts?
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Be ready to at least primer if you're getting it blasted. If not you'll have to do like I did and use Eastwood's after blast, which kind of sucks because I'm going to have to go back in hand sand it before I primer and paint it this week. I had to let it sit in my shop for almost 2 months before I could get the time to paint it. I did the floors underneath and inside similar to what you're talking about. Since you're not doing the bed sides, hood, or doors or anything like that I wouldn't really worry about anything warping.
