What's new
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

1974 K5 Build Path Guidance

Coontail

Coontail

1/2 ton status
 Premium
Joined
Feb 27, 2017
Posts
352
Reaction score
251
Location
Massachusetts
Howdy!

Well this is somewhat a mess but just so you guys know I'm 19 and this will eventually be my first blazer and build. I'm a bit confused on what type of path to take this beauty on, so I was looking to see what some of you guys could suggest.

The K5 is a 74' with a 91' body so in order to make it a 74' again I'm aware that I would need to change quite a few things body wise (Every panel from what I've researched). It also had a Cummins stuck in it by the previous owner but the swap was not done very well and they didn't box the frame beforehand so I have to re-do the swap and box the frame. The Blazer sat for at least 2-3 years with intake off so the engine should definitely be torn down and rebuilt because who knows what was living in there. It also has a 3/4 ton GM 10 bolt in the front and a 14 bolt in the rear.

To make a long story short, I want to get the chassis nice (box, POR-15, new brake lines, etc..), convert the body panels to a 74 (I could salvage the drivers door and drivers bedside possibly, do the full top conversion, rebuild the engine, and paint it the classic two-tone (I am aware of all the little things as well) . This option should get me to around hopefully 2 years and under $10k. I want to be able to enjoy and drive it.

My father suggests I go 110% and bring it to the point of a show truck and try to get "all the money for it" because it's a 74'. My predictions with that route is it'll take me to about $20k in work (not including labor) and probably almost a decade of time seeing how every project I've seen that in-depth takes absolutely forever to build.

I know a show quality 74' restomod is worth $40k - $30k but for how long it would take and the amount of cash I can't justify it.

I know this was more so a rant lol but what would do you guys suggest? Are 74's really worth going all the way on?
 
Restoring one is more about love than money

And typically a very long and expensive process.


Question is really, is that what YOU want to do with it?
 
Bent77 said:
Restoring one is more about love than money

And typically a very long and expensive process.


Question is really, is that what YOU want to do with it?
Click to expand...


Well I definitely have the love for one but not the patience for a restoration. I just wouldn't want to "ruin" something potentially very valuable

Ultimately I want it to be a weekend driver I can be proud of and make the tires spin every here and there :D
 
A really nice vehicle is pretty cool to own. I know some folks that drive them. Some become very paranoid and leave them in the garage.

Just make sure it's what you want before you invest full tilt.
Until then, make it mechanically sounds and drive it
 
Bent77 said:
A really nice vehicle is pretty cool to own. I know some folks that drive them. Some become very paranoid and leave them in the garage.

Just make sure it's what you want before you invest full tilt.
Until then, make it mechanically sounds and drive it
Click to expand...


Haha that's exactly what I'm scared about, it gets to a value point where you can't even drive it and it just sits, though it is nice to look at. If I want to dream about driving it I can do that the way it sits lol. Sorry if that came out wrong
 
sounds like that truck is heavily modified therefore not a very good candidate for a period correct restoration. IMO, fix the problems and enjoy the truck.
 
skunked said:
sounds like that truck is heavily modified therefore not a very good candidate for a period correct restoration. IMO, fix the problems and enjoy the truck.
Click to expand...

Pretty much what I'm thinking. If I wanted to get into a full on restoration there are probably plenty of one's that were abandoned halfway through and are much better for that
 
tRustyK5 said:
I'd sell the cummins and LS swap it, round eye front clip, full vert conversion to the current tub, paint to suit you and enjoy.

Selling the cummins would probably pay for the ls swap too.
Click to expand...


I was thinking about that at one point too, I don't think I would have to box the frame fully with the ls either. I just think having a Cummins swapped Blazer would be fairly special seeing how there's already thousands of ls swapped one's already. I will definitely think about it though. It just seems like a smarter move financially so far
 
If you're not into the car show scene, don't build a show car. Besides, the only valuable K5s will be the all-original, low mileage survivors or period-correct, numbers matching perfect restorations. So with yours being what it is, make it into whatever will be fun for you to drive. My opinion.....go back to gas unless you like the smell of diesel, and don't swap out all of the panels. Just get a donor windshield frame and graft it on if you want the full-vert effect. Steer all available funds to getting the mechanicals right, leave the body/paint till later.
 
The only thing about the ls swap is I already have everything to do the Cummins swap besides the boxing panels. Regardless of LS or no LS the whole frame should be boxed anyways, it does nothing but benefit and I really don't like the sound of a half boxed frame. So I don't know I'm probably gonna toss and turn in the future on what to do but I'm gonna try to stay with the Cummins and definitely box the frame no matter what. Also as far as swapping the panels that's something I definitely want to do, 73' - 75' is my favorite generation for body styles. Once I fully own the Blazer then I can really start thinking about it and I'll open another thread on some thoughts. Thanks for the help guys!
 
I am curious how they fit the 91 body on the 74 frame, the floor and mounts behind the seat are really different. The exterior sheet metal is basically the same, except round headlight front clip and cowl,, doors are the same except for the windshield frame and the gas cap door, well in 74 there was no gas cap door. I boxed my 74 frame, not one of my better ideas.
 
airemdwn said:
I am curious how they fit the 91 body on the 74 frame, the floor and mounts behind the seat are really different. The exterior sheet metal is basically the same, except round headlight front clip and cowl,, doors are the same except for the windshield frame and the gas cap door, well in 74 there was no gas cap door. I boxed my 74 frame, not one of my better ideas.
Click to expand...


Well I just happened to be near the Blazer when I read this so I peeked at the mounts and I'm not sure how the original mounts were but everything looks pretty cleanly done if they did have to modify it to fit on there. It must be able to drop on. Also why was the boxing difficult for you?
 
blazer74 said:
So, how do you know it's truly a 74?
Click to expand...

To be honest I had no idea the mounts were different, I'm still learning on k5's. The way I know so far is the VIN on the door tag and the title (the old tag was moved to the new body). Also multiple people I've talked to who knew some of the stuff that was done to it told me it was a "1991 body from California" granted that was like 5-6 years ago so it's experienced the northeast quite a bit. I'll check the numbers on the frame and verify that
 
Is there a vin tag at the top of the dash from the 91.

Body definitely mounts different just behind the cab 74 vs 91.

Front bumper is the later style and does not mount up the same as early bumpers.

Might be a matching vin on the top of the left frame rail adjacent to the exhaust manifold.
 
blazer74 said:
Is there a vin tag at the top of the dash from the 91.

Body definitely mounts different just behind the cab 74 vs 91.

Front bumper is the later style and does not mount up the same as early bumpers.

Might be a matching vin on the top of the left frame rail adjacent to the exhaust manifold.
Click to expand...

I wire brushed through the rust on the top of both the pass and drivers side and found nothing there. No evidence of grinding marks either... Any other spots it could be?
 
I found numbers... They're on the passenger side frame rail could these be the ones?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest Posts

Top Bottom