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1975 Chev K5 4WD

R

rfmullerjr

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Brand new member and need guidance. I just inherited from my parents out5 1975 Chev K5 Blazer. It has been in the family since 1975 and 77k miles on it. My parents finished their time in Austin, Texas but moved there from Estes Park, CO. My wife and I have a second home in Estes Park. I had the Blazer tied to a mechanic (Pop had not started it regularly for 10 years and it just sat in his garage). Engine fired up but the radiator is shot, water pump, carburetor, of course belts and fluids. The mechanic is estimating about $15k to get it in running condition replacing those parts and other items.

We are not selling the truck but instead want to refurbish it and make it our daily driver in Estes Park (spend about 3-6 months per year there). Need advice on whether to invest in fixing the vehicle "as is" or getting a refurbishment firm in Dallas or Denver area to bring it back to life so that it is safe and reliable for the next twenty years. I am not a mechanic, and we need honest help. The vehicle means a lot to us but we also do not intend on making it a show vehicle. We want to prudently invest into the Blazer and need guidance.

So, anyone who is willing to guide us would be greatly appreciated and/or recommendations for folks in the DFW area or Denver metroplex who work on Blazers and know how to do this at a fair price. Thanks in advance to all who read this!

Frank
 
Second that, time for a different mechanic. Is he saying just to do the repairs you stated or does this need body work etc? We’d need to know what all he is saying it needs….I mean if the body is good and you’re talking tires, brakes and tune up items, that price is absurd, heck for $15k I could have an LS swap in there for ya.
 
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Did you drive over to that place in your Bentley? :smile: That’s pretty outrageous for a mechanical refresh with no large item repair/swap or body work. Have any pics to post?

Charlie
 
My sentiments exactly. To be fair, he quoted $11k for the following:
  1. Carburetor replacement
  2. Transmission gasket replacement, flush and test (until he drives it, he says he is unsure if it needs to be replaced or rebuilt).
  3. Replace Distributor
  4. Replace Radiator
  5. Replace water pump
  6. Replace all gaskets and hoses
  7. Replace power steering pump
  8. Replace steering gear
  9. Replace and flush all fluids
  10. Replace all plugs and other electrical items and connections
  11. Replace Brakes and master cylinder
  12. Replace door actuators and window actuators
He estimated another $4k depending upon what they find as they open things up and road test the vehicle engine and transmission - for possibly rebuilding the transmission and he thinks the A/C may need to be replaced as well. His take is that the rust is minor and not an issue for the undercarriages for a truck that age and at this point he did not see any issues.

He said I would need to go to Discount tires and get new wheels/tires, he recommended a paint shop in Austin if I want to repaint it, he could get a local shop to quote refurbishing the carpet and seats, and to install a car audio system he could get an estimate from a local shop as well.

What I need is someone to take the Blazer to here in Dallas ideally or Austin who does good work and is not trying to rip me off. The mechanic we towed the truck to was well recommended, but this just seems over the top. I am headed down to Austin next weekend and need to either have the Blazer transported up here to Dallas or moved to another mechanic there. Suggestions or recommendations are appreciated. I will take detailed pictures of the Blazers current condition next week.
 
If it were me I would get some fresh gas in the thing, make sure all the gas lines are good so you don’t burn it up, do a good tune up (plugs, wires, cap and rotor) and see how it runs and drives and what all needs work…for what you want to do you’ll need to make a decision….do you want to just run it as is or do you want to fully overhaul a vehicle for 3 months of occasional use.
 
Welcome to CK5.
15k sounds rather expensive.
77k original miles distributor is fine, wouldn't change the carburetor, they don't make new quadrajet's.
Door actuators? You have power door locks and windows? do the windows roll up and down easily? if so leave them alone. Now window felts and rubber might be a little aged and in need of refresh.
Definitely do the rear wheel cylinders, the front disc calipers are probably fine, might need a little silicone grease on the sliding parts. New master is also good call, definitely bleed and refresh the brake fluid.
If the steering box is tight and not leaking leave it alone, rebuilts are 50-50 shot at a good one. There are some new ones being made recently, jurry is still out on those in my mind. Power steering pump if leaking at reservoir seal should be repaired. If shaft seal, new. Replace the pressure and return hoses probably.
Trans service definitely. If trans and transfer case have multiple leaks then that would be a labor intensive job, not horrible but neither should need rebuilt, just reseal. Tops 1.5k.
Belts hoses water pump radiator with labor. Tops 1.5k, and don't let them talk you into new aluminum radiator, get a good brass one. I just did my 77, just under $500 to have the core replaced on mine. I did the remove and replace, had radiator shop do the core.
Service diffs certainly, even with the best oil and lube locker gaskets 2hrs labor under $350.
Oil change and lube definitely.
I am guessing you don't want to do any of the work and that's ok.
But find a shop that respects the 1975 full convertible for the classic she is. Esp if she is the survivor she sounds like.
If you think you might want to tinker and are unsure about it, well this is the place to find help. We will be more than happy to assist.
 
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As for the ac, yes the old A6 compressor, more than likely has a front seal leak. Remanufactured are available, but unreliable.
Four Seasons makes a new replacement unit. New design clutch and pulley, slightly smaller displacement. Bolt in.
Sanden makes compressors that will work with some modifications.
The original refrigerant gas, R12, is no longer legal to purchase for the consumer.
Many classic cars have/are converted to R134A, which is scheduled to be phased out soon. The replacement gas R1234yf is not going to be usable in our old stuff.
Do yourself a favor and go Walmart and 4 to 6 cans R134A now, no oil or dye added, for 5he future a/c project.
I have been stocking up for a few months, more is better.
Parts suppliers, like Rockauto, will have replacement kits for your compressor. Imo the best option. There will be some debate about changing the condenser to a modern style. While I am not saying the modern isn't more efficient. I will say the original will do the job. It fits the hose connections are correct and routed well.
Plus I have poked around looking for a modern style, parallel flow, condenser for 77, and they are hard to find. Out of stock, backordered or no longer available.
You will need to have a shop at minimum recover any freon in the system flush and vacuum. They might as well do the compressor, accumulator, and orifice tube/thermal expansion valve.
Find a shop that will install your supplied parts. This spring chances are good RockAuto will run a special on the compressor kits.
 
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My BIL took his K10 to a shop to get it worked on when I was laid up with knee surgery, and they actually charged him a classic car fee. I believe it was like $175.
I told him never to go to that shop again.
 
Bro, don't send it to that mechanic. Spend $1000 on tools and the guys here will have it running a couple months if not sooner, you'll have to do the work though.

Do the work yourself at least what you can. You'll save untold amounts of $$$ from labor alone doing it yourself
 
What part of D/FW are you in? I'm up in The Mound and have a '74 I've had since '87. Is the truck in Texas or Colorado? If it's here, happy to help.

I can appreciate if you're not a mechanic, most of the folks on here are, so much of the advice given will be from that perspective. You're in a bit of a hard spot... you've got a truck that needs some TLC, but reasonable $ to get work done for something almost 50 years old is tough to find. Most of the shops want the larger restoration jobs, not knick-knack maintenance. I have a '57 convertible I've got a small fortune in via hot rod shop work and upholstery. Great work/craftsmanship, just expensive when you compare costs to DIY. If you don't like or don't want to take part in the rebuild, you're going to have to pay the man.

If the truck starts, and you have oil pressure, you're in good shape to get started in some fashion. Alot of the items you listed can be done by you even if you're not experienced. You'll start to build a bond with your truck if you learn how. :smile: Just like I want to occasionally light mine on fire, bonding, it's a big deal.

Wes has given some pretty good advice. I would wait on the door HW stuff and A/C until last and focus on getting it running/moving first. You'll have other adventures with 50 year old wiring, probably all the weather-striping on your top and so on.

What kind of shape is the body in?

Charlie
 
Ok, ok, I get it.. I'll stop and seek elsewhere..

DON’T YOU DARE! keep asking those questions, its helps everyone here become a better group!..Zimmer

To the op enjoy the truck, 1975 is the last year of full top removal and they are nice. but I doubt you'll need to spend $15k to get it driving again or even close to that to enjoy it.
 
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Sounds so much like a metro area shop trying to gouge people because they get away with it often.
Carburetor replacement versus clean and rebuild is probably because no one does that in most shops anymore. Lack of knowledge seems to run the price up. Take a stab at it with no regard for the customer cost.
 
When I lived in dfw/Mckinney 11 yrs ago, Plano transmission did all my work, there was Joe's Carburetor shop in Richardson for carb and electrical. There's a guy in Greenville for engine. I'll scroll around and see if I remember his name. I would find a Mechanic away from dfw ( especially Frisco, Plano, Mckinney)
15k is gold plated restoration price to gouge a non car person. Run far away from that guy.
 
CharlieC said:
Did you drive over to that place in your Bentley? :smile: That’s pretty outrageous for a mechanical refresh with no large item repair/swap or body work. Have any pics to post?

Charlie
Click to expand...

CharlieC said:
What part of D/FW are you in? I'm up in The Mound and have a '74 I've had since '87. Is the truck in Texas or Colorado? If it's here, happy to help.

I can appreciate if you're not a mechanic, most of the folks on here are, so much of the advice given will be from that perspective. You're in a bit of a hard spot... you've got a truck that needs some TLC, but reasonable $ to get work done for something almost 50 years old is tough to find. Most of the shops want the larger restoration jobs, not knick-knack maintenance. I have a '57 convertible I've got a small fortune in via hot rod shop work and upholstery. Great work/craftsmanship, just expensive when you compare costs to DIY. If you don't like or don't want to take part in the rebuild, you're going to have to pay the man.

If the truck starts, and you have oil pressure, you're in good shape to get started in some fashion. Alot of the items you listed can be done by you even if you're not experienced. You'll start to build a bond with your truck if you learn how. :smile: Just like I want to occasionally light mine on fire, bonding, it's a big deal.

Wes has given some pretty good advice. I would wait on the door HW stuff and A/C until last and focus on getting it running/moving first. You'll have other adventures with 50 year old wiring, probably all the weather-striping on your top and so on.

What kind of shape is the body in?

Charlie
Click to expand...
Not to hijack the conversation but I want to give a shout out to Charlie. I also live in the Mound and have a 1975 that I'm about to separate from the frame in my shop in Ponder. It would be good to know a local K5 aficionado. Leaning heavily toward a restomod but still have all the original drive train. I found it in south Texas. For setting outside for 40+ years it's in pretty good shape. I put it on the lift last weekend and except for the typical floors and rockers it's pretty rust free.

Rob
 
TJ1978 said:
Ok, ok, I get it.. I'll stop and seek elsewhere..

DON’T YOU DARE! keep asking those questions, its helps everyone here become a better group!..Zimmer

To the op enjoy the truck, 1975 is the last year of full top removal and they are nice. but I doubt you'll need to spend $15k to get it driving again or even close to that to enjoy it.
Click to expand...

you need to read the bold part!

we just mess with you because we like you :pimp1:
 
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