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1977 camper special 2x4 14 bolt Question

wazzabie

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Would a 14 bolt rear on the 77 camper special 2x4 be a 14 bb full flooter? What gearing would it have?
 
Same here, my 14 bolt FF came out of a 1975 camper special and it has 4.10s.
 
I think my 77 c20 burb was a trailer special, had heavy duty suspension th400 4.10s i think the heavier duty brakes etc, they are definitely a full floater axle though, just gearing in 3/4s were typically 3.73 or 4.10.
 
Yes the rear drums are huge. I can get the rear for under $100 bucks. It still is on the truck.

This is a bolt in to my 78 K5 provided that the gears are correct right?

What do I need to inspect on this before I buy it?
 
if swapin in to a 4wd truck will require swapin the shock mounts around.

OK good to know. So should I be looking then for a 4x4 14 bolt? Would the be swappable with out moving the shock mounts. Moving the shock mounts is more involved then what I want to be at this time.
 
true bolt in ff 14 bolt for 1/2 ton truck swap in is from a 3/4 ton 4x4 truck.

otherwise if from a true 1ton truck shock tabs and spring perches need moved.

if from a 3/4 ton 2wd just the shock tabs need moved.

and if me i would ditch the stock low hanging tabs and get some cheep weld on tabs from vendors for a few bucks and have someone weld them on for a few bucks.
 
if swapin in to a 4wd truck will require swapin the shock mounts around.


Not really, you'll just have one if i remember right, the driver side that the body of the shock will be right up against the axle tube. I have been running mine like that since i got it, about 5-6 years now.

The u-joint will need a conversion joint as well, going from the 3/4 ton yoke to the 1/2 ton driveshaft.
 
Not really, you'll just have one if i remember right, the driver side that the body of the shock will be right up against the axle tube. I have been running mine like that since i got it, about 5-6 years now.

The u-joint will need a conversion joint as well, going from the 3/4 ton yoke to the 1/2 ton driveshaft.

I'm planning on buying all new driveshsfts after I lift it and swap axels. So it is best that I find the axels from a 4x4.
 
I'm planning on buying all new driveshsfts after I lift it and swap axels. So it is best that I find the axels from a 4x4.

It doesn't matter, they are mostly the same, as mentioned the only real difference are the shock tabs, the 2wd ones sit alittle lower on the tube i believe. I pulled an axle out of a 3/4 ton 2wd truck and installed it in my 1/2 ton Burb with no issues other than having to get a conversion u-joint. the 1/2 ton driveshaft u-joint will not fit the larger yoke of the 14bff.

as far as the shock mounts go, it will work, as mentioned, you'll just have one of the shock tubes resting up against the axle tube, but it does not affect it's functionality.

if you're planning on buying new driveshafts, then you'll be fine with it, i don't know the u-joint numbers right off, but whatever the 14bff uses, just have the end on the rear driveshaft matched up so you won't need this conversion joint, it's also alittle more pricey too.
 

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